Like others have said, you can go and have a chat with the IRS about a payment plan. Now having said that, you have a whole lot of other issues going on that a long-time lurker would have avoided. First off, I'd lay off using credit cards for a while, pay it off, and try and get your finances under control.

You're definitely right. I've been trading an entire life in exchange for living far away at home and it hasn't done me any good. I'll have the rest of my life to save money. I guess now I just need to take these words and make them reality.

> "Laddering" as a concept applies equally to Treasuries or CDs ... meaning that you more frequently have access to cash

out of curiosity, why treasury ladders vs ETFs holding treasuries, such as BIL or SGOV?

When you are on Fidelity, click News & Research, Mutual Funds. Then screen the funds to only money market funds, Fidelity funds only, require less than 2.5k initial investment, you get 11 funds in the list.

Switch the view to "Daily pricing / yields" to see the 7-day yields. Sort by this 7-day yield.

Apply the "50% rule" (If a fund contains less than 50% of the thing that makes it tax-exempt, it is completely not tax-exempt). I know only FDLXX has >50% in US Treasury and US Gov Obligations. All of the funds above it in the list are dominated by Repurchase Agreements, which are not state tax exempt.

Then it's just a matter of multiplying the numbers. Example: 4.54% x (1 -0.24 -0.093) = 3.03%

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" I'm holding it in the traditional IRA until I hit the max contribution amount, which I'll then rollover to Roth." Not understanding what this means?

How many quotes have you compared to see for yourself? Well qualified are in the high 5s/low 6s.

Maliciously comply, provide their information and all communications to your insurance company, and allow them to pursue these jack wagons.

They're trying to screw you over, do not sign anything from them, only speak with your insurance company.

I guess my question wasn't clear in the OP. I was debating on whether it's better to use taxable brokerage account than Roth IRA if I'm pretty sure I'll withdraw all money from them before retirement.

Sounds like on brokerage account, I'll just pay 15% long term capital gains tax while in IRA it'll be 15% taxes + 10% penalty.

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No fault insurance. I’d check with your insurance first.

There are non-medical required plans. Might may a bit of a premium over a medically underwritten plan, but that premium will be nowhere near a whole life policy.

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"Hey dad, I noticed my credit dropped and when I inquired as to why it was brought to my attention that the high utilization on your business credit card is hurting my credit score now that its as high as it is. I appreciate you helping me get here but can you call and have me removed?"

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You quoted the rules for withdrawing earnings. Conversions are not earnings.

If you contributed $12000 directly to Roth IRA, you can withdraw $12000 any time.

If you converted $6000 from a 100% nondeductible traditional IRA to Roth IRA, you can withdraw $6000 any time after you have already withdrawn the $12k Roth contributions.

Contributions and conversions are always withdrawn first before earnings are withdrawn.

Refer to Form 8606 lines 22 (for direct contributions) and 24 (for conversions).

Thnxxx. That pre-tax thing and the reps I talked to just really confused me.

What is your monthly income, and monthly expenses (including minimum payments)?

Balance on each card?

Any non-retirement savings?

Any other debts?

Thanks. Your answer is very precise and clear, unlike the fidelity description. I understand now

Income this year will be about 30% less.

Taking on debt to cover other debts can be a slippery slope if the stars don't align ESPECIALLY if you don't have a reliable source of income.

Would your sister (another family member or friend?) float you some cash until you secure employment?

The best savings account these days is probably 4% tops, so the amount saved between putting money there vs paying off the student loans is like $20 a month. I think the peace of mind of not having that debt over your head is worth $20 a month to most people, but it’s not wrong either way. There’s also the reality that most people will SAY they’re going to pay the minimum and invest the rest, but in reality they pay the minimum and spend the rest. Paying down debt is irrevocable forced savings.

How do you do that? Do you have an excel sheet or something? 🙏. Thanks very much

I can see why you think comparing the bottom number is the same, but it's not comparing apples to apples. There are a lot of hidden costs the owner bears.

You may be looking at a time horizon that is too small. At .55% you might as well keep it under your mattress lol, but a quick search says the "American Funds 2060 Trgt Date Retire R6" over the last 5 years has returned 14.89%. I would suggest you open an account with vanguard and get a target date fund from them (VTTSX) and pay lower in fees (0.43 VS .08%) also read the book " I will teach you to be rich" by Ramit Sethi.

I believe the state income tax rate that corresponds to 24% federal in California is 9.3%.

>Fed: 24%

>CA: 9.3%