> Needs 7k. Offered to pay back 1k per month for 10 months.

That's an absolutely usurious interest rate. No way would I charge that to a "friend", or even an enemy.

> Should I take a loan asking for $10.6k back after interest/fees (over 24 months) or use my emergency fund?

Neither. Don't borrow money to lend it out, and don't dip into your e-fund. If you don't have enough extra cash on hand to make this loan, don't do it.

Doesn't matter whether it's a scam or not. As mentioned here several times

You didn't hit their car.

Throw it away

Thank you!! This was very helpful

This is likely their off to settle your claim. Don’t take it! It could jeopardize your ability to recover if things go wonky. At fault insurance companies single goal is to pay out as little as possible.

If you can manage it pay your own way and allow your insurance to recover from them. This is especially important if you have injuries.

very helpful to learn about different perspectives!

Another quick question about CDs, what happens after the term is up? Do we have the option to renew the term, or do we have to move everything out of the CDs?

1 full month. If you leave early or join late, the fund makes a prorated distribution.

It’s not quite the same regulatory framework as ordinary mutual funds, to allow money market funds to keep the price constant they don’t use the normal ex dividend trading schedule.

Any occupation generally is any occupation for which you are reasonably qualified by way of your training and background. So, while you should check the language of the policy specifically, they probably would not be able to force you to be a grocery bagger. See https://www.mkdisabilitylawyers.com/blog/change-of-definition-what-does-it-mean-for-my-long-term-disability-ltd-benefits/

Employer provided LTD benefits are taxable, unless you choose to pay income tax on the value of the premium. Your current policy should indicate somewhere a definition of disabled which would tell you whether it is own occupation or any occupation.

Yes, I did think of that, thanks. Another reason I'm hesitant to sell but I don't think it's a dealbreaker. Come to think of it I should probably learn more about 1031 exchanges...

1. you need a written contact and list detail term, time frame, interest for pay back, also listed what happen if he dies then who will pay for his debt, it's business, treat it like it

Interest accrues daily and is paid monthly

There’s no playing cute games with it

Don't worry (too much). When you make a payment, it'll be applied in this order:

1. Minimum payment on the bill
2. The balance with the highest interest rate

Therefore, you just need to pay minimum + about $62 to clear out the purchase balance.

Is your girlfriend controlled by her father? Since you don’t mention her disagreeing with his “rule”, then she either values his opinion more than your relationship, or she’s afraid of not getting some kind of inheritance. You might want to rethink your plans.

be sure you understand that you have to pay taxes on the proceed

This sounds like misinformation. You should always conduct due diligence before joining any bank, but there are several online banks that are better than larger physical banks.

Ally savings has a 3.75% interest rate right now. They also have a no penalty CD with 4.35% I think. It was 4.75% a few days ago.

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Well crap. I did use that card to buy like 60 bucks of gas once. So I guess that purchase is about to get like ~22% interest for the next year 🙃

Another point to consider: if you use your insurance your premium will most likely go up next time you renew your policy.

As others said, you should put your insurance company to resolve this with their insurance company and stay away from weird proposals. That's why you pay insurance.

> Deposit and withdrawal requests made by 5 p.m. Eastern time will have same-day settlement.

So you can withdraw same-day as long as you do it during business hours. Withdrawals made overnight will have to wait for the next business day.

I was thinking Warhammer

Canceling the card won’t make a big difference in payments as you still owe the money and the balance is accruing interest. All canceling the card will do is prevent you from spending more on it and resetting your progress. If that’s the only way to ensure you don’t use it, then yes, cancel it. However, if you can figure out another way, keeping the card provides the “credit history” for the future

Sorry can you elaborate?

that looks good. Am I understanding it right that is is basically a savings but I don't have access to it right away?

Start the ROTH NOW.

When you do the 401k, put it all into the S&P 500 index fund that you will have as a option.

Invest in a mutual fund, automatic deposits every month. Pick a fund. Since you are young you can play and learn. Pick something exciting. Such as an all health care fund. Maybe an all Electric car fund. No idea if that exists, but what the heck.

Look at starting a Dividend Reinvestment Plan into a utility. Slow and boring. I always recommend either AWK or WTRG. Every one needs water. You will not make 500% in a water utility in a day, buy you also will not lose 85% in a day. This is what I call a foundation for a young investor. A good building is built on a strong foundation.

If your company gives you stocks options, and they are sold at a discount to you, exercise the options and sell the stock. Yes, you pay capital gains but you make money. No one ever went broke making a profit. Plus, if the company goes in the toilet, you are not holding a bunch of worthless options.

NJ allows a 529 tax deduction and you have NJ income presumably so it's a no brainer.

In states without income tax or without a deduction then you may choose another state's program for better expense ratios or investment options but you can deduct up to $10k annually which is cool.

Does NJ offer a state income tax deduction for 529 contributions? Is it limited to your state 529 plans? (my recollection from previous reddit discussions is YES to both, but check me on that).

You are not restricted to using a NJ plan. I happened use my state's plan -- my state is the type to give tax deductions...but they didn't until my eldest was in college. AND, they didn't restrict tax deductions to contributions to a my-state 529 plan.

WHen I made my decision, the Vanguard UT 529 plan was considered best. Not long ago I looked, and it was now Vanguard NV 529 plan. The plan I'm in for my state is also highly regarded.

I guess the only other question is on the other end, but who knows what will happen between now and then. I'm not entirely happy with Fidelity -- I've split one of my kids 529s between multiple funds, and to correctly pull from one but not the other could not be achieved by using the website -- I would have to call up to place the sell order. But other than that, yes, I was happy with the fidelity web interface and services.