>You can't put it back in again later — you're still limited to the annual contribution amount allowed.

While generally true, there is a small loophole. If the money is returned to the IRA within 60 days, it can be treated as an "indirect rollover", negating the withdrawal and not counting as part of this year's contribution limit. As I understand things, it doesn't even have to involve separate IRAs, you can "rollover" out of an IRA back into the same one as long as the rest of the rules are followed. The IRS does limit an individual to only one indirect rollover every 12 months, so this isn't something that can done on a regular basis.

The HDHP wins because you're saving 4200 $3644 in premiums/employer HSA contributions and $3644 is way more than the OOP max differential.

Unless you have promotional 0% APR for both balance transfer and purchases, DO NOT USE the same card for purchases until you fully pay the entire balance off.

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> Will those purchases get my regular interest charged since I’ll be carrying an amount month to month?

Yes

Do not ever use a credit card to which youve r transferred a balance

Rule number 1 of a balance transfer card is to not use it for anything until paid off. What will likely happen is the terms will say something along the lines of "to avoid interest on purchases, all promotional balances must be paid in full."

>Having liability at least equal to your net worth is smart

Maybe I'm missing something but what does your net worth have to do with how much you want to get insured for?

I would go with B.

This is why, and I think this is as reasonable of a reference point as it gets outside of some clear cut definitions from creditors. Consider if these were retirement accounts and how income is reported.

If the money was coming out of 401k/IRA/etc. accounts, you'd say your income that year was 50k. So I'd report what you get out of it on average.

That said, I have no idea how they would want you to properly account for it. Although, I feel really confident that it is not option A.

They have the option to use their own insurance to speed it up, then they (op insurance) just have to hope the at fault insurance doesn’t try to say it wasn’t their fault, which definitely happens. Your word vs theirs bs they try to pull all the time.

Cheers to you! Happy weekend and congrats on maintaining control.

But you’re nor retiring today with your current balance- you’re retiring in 20 years. Additionally, 60% (~$109K) of your current salary is a lot. If you’re hoping to spend up to that much without a mortgage then you need to save up a lot more.

Maybe you're thinking of an FSA? Those cannot be invested and can only be used for medical expenses.

An HSA can be either invested or used for medical expenses.

There is no magic answer. Call. Ask. Call ask. Until you find something

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You should always pay as much as you are able without putting yourself at risk. This reduces the total amount paid and, eventually, removes the payment entirely sooner, which increases savings.

>Ive seen some online banks (that are fdic insurred) offer 5% on savings accounts.

Avoid these like the plague. They are extremely dangerous. Note: because a major online bank purchases a lot of sponsored content, you're going to get a lot of recommendations for it here. Disregard, they are no ally of yours.

Finding a real bank or credit union in your area that offers similar rates is the best bet.

You can't just cancel a card you owe money on.

You can invest them with most providers until you need to withdraw.

It depends on if you are sure sure you won't need to charge again (or have another card still open)...because it will be hard to get a new card right away. (Also they should lower the interest rate, not just the payment amount.)

K1 shows partnership income, if you invest in a business, you own part of it.

I'd be really careful claiming that loss and definitely talk to a professional. (I am one but I would need to see everything you have to make sure I'm understanding correctly)

Thats great to know! Hopefully my software remembers and takes care of all this for me, because I sure won't remember :-)

Hi everyone, have a few questions!

I’m completely new to the 401k and IRA stuff.

I have a 401k with my employer that I match with and invest in Vanguard Target Date Fund 2060 on Fidelity. I’m most likely going to stick with TDF for all of my accounts as I want to set it and forget it. I want to set up a Roth IRA via Fidelity as well. Should I do the invest for the same exact TDF I am with my 401k or is it ok to invest in different TDF on my Roth IRA? The vanguard 2060 has a minimum investment and high fees for a Roth IRA so idk if it’s worth!

Positive:
As of today, I have managed to pay off 1,700$ off the balance of my personal loan, bringing the total down to 67.9k.

That sounds like a huge debt, and it was all from the equalization payment as part of my divorce. I feel like I'm slowly regaining control of my finances (after the payment, and the subsequent overwhelming prime interest rate increases), and it feels good.

I would disagree. Consumer-Facing insurance like Personal Auto and Homeowners is very regulated on how much they can charge and what is covered.

Nope, not publicly traded, only got to Series D and then got acquired for peanuts.

K1? I have no idea what that is. Should I try to find this?