Right now I'm saving about $51k per year with full 401k + match + backdoor roth.

Yeah. I go back and forth with including SS. I like the idea of just counting half of my currently monthly estimate though.

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You can withdraw your contributions at any time, tax and penalty free

Don't take their offer. I've been rear ended and ended up with my car being totaled by a teenager who had already gotten into three accidents. I was basically called constantly by the at-fault driver's insurance asking me to take "free money". I contacted my insurance company (USAA) and they explained the other insurance company was trying to get out of paying a bigger dollar amount because my insurance company went after the driver to pay for everything. If I had accepted, I would be on the hook for all the medical, repair, etc.

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I sold a ‘00 that needed a good amount of work for $4000 just before the pandemic. I bet it would still be worth the same, if not more, now.

OP should forward this offer to their own insurance company.

they do not, they've lived in Mexico all their lives... I'm not sure they're eligible for an ITIN?

Hope I didnt scare you off. Its a lovely city but yeah I would expect it would be tight on 65k a year for two. If you rent a 1 bedroom then maybe talking more like $1600/mo. Food for two its probably possible to do on $500/mo. Gas is about $4.50 a gallon out here. I mean Im sure you can manage but yes it is expensive to live in Seattle and your lifestyle and comfort moving here from Texas would almost certainly take a hit.

Select the repayment plan that gives you the lowest monthly payment, and then use that extra money how you see it. It allows you to decide if you want a house, a car, or maybe pay off your loans ASAP.

Haven’t touch the cards since August. I have even locked them to not tempt myself. I have no problem paying them off it’s just I’m trying to help see myself save money so I don’t spend so much on interest

Just get ‘em done after the decision and be debt free. No reason to accrue interest when you have the cash, and that cash is not presently being invested.

The only "problem" with umbrella is that you typically have to have the max, or close to it, liability coverage on things like auto. So that could make the cost less cheap if they don't already have a larger liability coverage.

But in general umbrella itself is pretty cheap.

As an investment, real estate is entirely dependent on local conditions. If your area is booming, how sustainable is that growth? Is it tied to a specific industry? Also, do you want to stay in this community for the long term?

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You are pretty much set up for an ideal start to life as far as this sub is concerned. There is not much more than the basic guide for kicking off ROTH/401k that you'd need. Don't go crazy in trying to pick stocks. Follow the basics we practice here. Read the sidebar. You're in a very very nice spot. Good job and good luck at the new job.

You might get to $3 million. You have about $460k now. If you keep adding $24k per year, I come to $2.8 million twenty years from now, assuming a 7% return.

What would help is:

• socking away more money, starting as soon as you can. The longer that money can grow, the more it will become. Saving an extra $10k now is better than saving $10k when you're 60.
• reducing your expenses now and also when you're retired
• pay off debt and reduce your ongoing liabilities/bills. If you plan to continue to live in your current house, this could include making the house more energy efficient and buying/building things that last forever instead of just ten years (so good quality furniture and appliances and things like that).

By the way, I'd take social security into account for say half of the currently promised amount. If that gives say $40k/year after age 67, that means that by that age it represents about 25 x $40k = $1 million of net worth that you don't need to save up.

1. Even if you keep only 50% of the employer match, that’s still 100% more money than you’d have if you didn’t contribute.
2. While it seems unlikely you’ll stay the full 4 years, you never know what will happen. You don’t want to look back at 4 years and calculate how much money you turned down.

Treasuries usually have better rates and are exempt from state income tax, but other than the effective return you can consider them to be the same thing as CDs, so select the one with the better return.

You buy Treasury Bills at a discount to their $100 face value, and they get redeemed by the Treasury for $100 on the maturity date. If you buy them at a brokerage, you can sell them early for market price, which may or may not be attractive. In that way they are similar to CDs - you get a guaranteed return if you hold them to maturity and can cash out early for a potential small penalty.

"Laddering" as a concept applies equally to Treasuries or CDs - the idea is to have a "ladder" of them which mature at regular intervals, meaning that you more frequently have access to cash via a maturity event, so you can access the cash without having to sell a Treasury or break a CD.

Most others have said the benefits of them - but something to look for with your FSA provider is a recurring reimbursement form. This allows you to fill it out once at the start of the year then automatically get reimbursed on every paycheck without having to fill out anything again.

Here is the one for WEX (popular provider).

Unless it's a No penalty CD

What rates are you seeing for either? To me it seems like almost no cds are worth it right now as you can get over 4% in hysa or money market funds. Also how long will you not need the money?

Not positive on that, but I don’t think there are any taxes. You always hear of the “triple tax advantages” of the HSA. It’s the best thing going.

Edit: confirmed that there shouldn’t be any taxes on growth.

https://www.morganstanley.com/articles/health-savings-account-retirement-tax-advantages#:~:text=HSAs%20are%20savings%20vehicles%20that,enjoy%20tax%2Dfree%20growth%20potential.