A few concepts to understand.

A credit card application will normally take one’s stated income. So you’re free to put whatever you like.

That information will still be reviewed (likely electronically) and if you’re technically not employed then that would usually result in the application declining.

You can put your source of income as investments but if the file gets to underwriter review they may want some sort of proof of this investment income. As dividends and capital gains are not guaranteed then they may not consider it as reliable income.

Typically a credit card company wants to see 2 years of consistent income in the same line of work.

Having significantly large assets may help to combat this issue, but if the creditor you’re applying with has no relationship with you then they have no way of knowing those assets exist.

It may be best to work with your bank or broker where the assets are held and see if they have some sort of affluent segment/customer program. They’ll likely be able to get you a card this way since they know you have the resources to support the debt.

As a last note. Under underwriting terms some forms of income are actually increased to more than their actual number. Not all types of income receive equal tax treatment. Social security benefits are tax exempt in some cases, municipal debt income can also be tax exempt, Roth IRA withdrawals, structured insurance settlements, life insurance loans used as income, child support isn’t taxed, and qualified dividends are taxed lower than income. In some of these cases a lender may calculate what the earned income equivalent of these assets is and apply that number towards qualification.

They're federal. I was planning on waiting to pay until the Court makes its decision, but after they do they'll be like a 60 day period where they're still interest free, I believe. So would it be better to pay them all off in that period, or spread out my payments to monthly?

If the note says please notify them IF you hit their car then don’t notify them.

Interesting. Who is the bank for your employer's HSA? I wouldn't expect a fee to show up on Fidelity's side, but any chance you're pulling, say, $1000 over and the originating HSA is subtracting $1025 from your balance? Maybe Fidelity is able to cover that fee, refunding the amount charged into your deposit into their HSA.

Or maybe I've just been stuck with fee-heavy HSAs in my past jobs and this transfer fee is less common than I thought.

Collision coverage is available regardless of who's at fault. The insurance carrier will subrogate and try to recover, including the deductible. Deductible is due regardless of who's at fault too.

All federal

Most high yield savings accounts are FDIC insured. Treasury funds are not. I use AMEX for my HYS.

Cash is only for what you could need in case of emergency or would need quickly. That could be regular savings or in some cases you can transfer from HYS to checking in a day. Consider your lifestyle and is there a circumstance where you need several thousand bucks today or tomorrow? If not lock it away and earn money while you can.

There are a handful of zero funds. Typically with a very long investment time period you start with higher risk - mostly stock or a higher concentration on stocks. (= higher volatility) or just go S&P500

Backdoor roth is for when you earn too much to contribute to roth. You aren't there yet

Your current balance should balloon to over 1.5 million by age 65 if you don't touch it.

OP didn't say what plan he has there's a good chance it's a plan where they include the cost of the phone in the monthly payment. I've done the math every couple of years when I get a new phone and it's cheaper for me to stay at Verizon vs a cheap place if I still get a $1000 new iPhone. Obviously the cheaper places can save a lot of money with older phones.

>The at fault driver’s insurance is who has to foot the bill, you don’t even owe a deductible.

fwiw, depending on timing and stuff, if you go through your insurance you might pay your deductible and later be reimbursed for it. that happened to me once.

OP’s insurance being required to pay for the damage if prompted to by OP is tied to whether OP has collision coverage on the policy and not tied to whether other driver was at fault. They would pay it minus deductible and likely subrogate and try and get deductible back to OP.

You don't get to choose how insurance subrogates (who pays) and I guarantee your insurer is no spring chicken and won't see 'at fault' and 'rear ended' on the same claim and say 'weird' APPROVE.

The minute you call your insurer and tell them you were rear ended and would like to file a claim they're going to get the other drivers information and make them pay the bill.

First of all, there is no risk of US hyperinflation. Second, the pound has not been doing too well lately (though it has recovered somewhat from its low in September), and the UK's long term prospects have been hurt by Brexit. The dollar is basically as safe a currency as you can find.

Since Ecuador uses dollars, it makes most sense for you to stay in dollars. Exchange fees eat big chunks of money when you move from one currency to another.

Crypto is just gambling. Go to a casino instead.

As a personal injury attorney I disagree. We don’t have enough info to say it is worth it here.l especially if there is no bodily injury. There is nothing to suggest OP cannot reject the offer and demand the other driver insurance cover the damages as assessed by one of their accepted shops.

Correct.

Yeah if you think the dollar is about to experience hyperinflation, I don’t understand why it would think the pound would be a safe alternative.

>HSA providers almost always charge a "transfer fee" to move money from them to another HSA. This is usually around $25-35 per transfer. So doing this a lot is going to cost you more.

I start the transfer from Fidelity to pull the funds out of the employer HSA account. I have never paid a fee. Since it is a direct transfer, I can do it multiple times a year.

No, we cannot rent out the house from my employer; we will rent out the new house.

Thanks man! I saw Schwab portal let’s you specify which tax year on deposit, so good stuff

Thanks! I was thinking of a CD ladder for the short term and recalibrate if (and when) the fed pivots. Long term though ETF's seem the better option.

Are there any tax implications for interest earned with CDs in HSAs given that the principle+interest (without auto-roll) would be back in the account?

Hell no. Talk to your insurance and let them handle the other or give you guidance. FFS these insurance companies are getting wild with their tactics!

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Fidelity and Vanguard are functionally equivalent. If you don't have any existing accounts that would make consolidating at one brokerage more convenient you can literally flip a coin.

Schwab is also in the same tier but I'm trying to preempt your follow up post asking "Schwab says I can make a 2024 contribution…can I?" (persistent website bug, gets asked here about once a week)

Do you want to be a landlord or would you rather just invest that money elsewhere?

Guessing you mean buy a house and rent that house out? I doubt your work would let you rent out a house they are providing you.