I will when I can. They are on the west coast and I'm on Eastern Time. I have to wait for them to open.

Trying to build my credit faster, I thought that if you made above minimum payments instead of paying it all off at once that it raised your score faster? I also break it into two payments a month. For instance my minimum of my $700 card is $40. So I pay two payments of $40 usually.

The issue really is that I have not a clue how credit works and need to do some reading, but I thought that was how it worked and my credit has been growing a lot lately

How consistent have the bonuses and profit sharing been. It really is just a judgement call about how likely you are to get them again. Mortgage underwriters look to see if you have gotten them 2 years in a row, and will treat them as likely to continue if you have. The same rule could be helpful to you,but of course you know your work and your company better than we do.

Also, can you make yourself a budget that has the higher rent and still comes out even or ahead if you don't factor in the bonuses? If so, you are probably in good shape even if you are above the 30% rule.

The retirement calculators depend heavily on the exact assumptions going in. Having more money certainly helps, but most people retire with less than you already have.

Your expenses will be less once you've paid off the house. If needed you could later sell the house and move someone cheaper, or get a reverse mortgage on it.

Whoops, yeah. My bad. Meant mid to high 100s. Corrected that.

Geez, buddy. PICK UP THE TELEPHONE!

Unless you're paying a nanny under the table to take care of your kid, in which you CAN'T use those funds... do it. It's a good way to pay $5k of daycare without paying taxes on those dollars.

For mine, I have to submit invoices and get reimbursed as the money hits the account each paycheck. I usually wait until I have enough to cover 1 month before submitting. My company uses BASIC and it is super easy and fast. You have until I think March of the following year to submit receipts from the previous year to reimburse.

​

Just remember unused funds will NOT roll over.. so if you are due late this year and won't hit $5k, don't contribute that much.

I am unable to log in. My account is blocked. Customer service is open on the west coast in 8 minutes. I hope to try to make a deal with them. I did cancel. The date was on my computer and I remember doing it but I don't have the cancellation email anymore.

Unused funds expire every year, so don't contribute too much ahead of time

But yes they are a great deal

Thank you. I’m contractually obligated to receive 3% of profits every quarter (small company so it’s not a huge amount, but still very fair) which is why I can say with certainty that my 2023 gross pay will be more than $76k - just a bit of a question of how much.

I agree that I’d be comfortable at 35% given the circumstances.

Backdoor Roth is the way.

Not by much I did say slightly above minimum wage. A couple grossing 62k (minimum wage) would pay 4.7k in FICA and 3.5k federal so they would take home about 54k a year. So youd be 20% above that which is what I meant when I said slightly above minimum wage standard of living assuming you wish to maintain your savings rate. Also as I said people do live in Seattle on that so it is possible it would just be tight.

I live in Seattle (like right on the city limit) in a house (so own not rent) with a family of four and we spend about $10k/mo here. We do mostly cooking for food and we spend about $1400/mo on food. Not claiming that is a minimum cost of living but i hang out on this subreddit and we are frugal people. Our takehome after savings (57k pretax) and taxes is 3x yours though.

The median household (gross) income in Seattle is $97k. The median rent for a 2 bedroom apartment in Seattle is $2756 (so 33k a year). Our house is old (like 1940s), 1600 square feet and not central to Seattle at all (at the edge) and its on Zillow at 835k. So you would be in the bottom half.

Seattle is probably in the top 5 highest COL cities in the nation.

Yeah nah bruh ! Drive a beater for a few years it's not that bad. Let's say you buy a 5k car and it needs 2k in repairs that's still saving you 13k that's nothing to shake a stick at. However I will say @ 270k miles I'm about to put new tires and a power steering pump on a 2009 salvage title Nissan morons. That's not the best idea either. But it's still a he'll of a lot cheaper than a new car

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Dealers/Automakers spend gajillions of dollars creating a sense of urgency with promotional rates and specials and discounts.

Certainly reducing financial costs of borrowing is a good goal but so too is delaying the purchase for as long as possible considering you hold on to your money longer, avoid depreciation/insurance for as long as possible and otherwise extend the amortization period of your current car.

720 likely won't get you the teaser rates but it's worth inquiring. If you're auto shopping make sure you've got loan terms from an unaffiliated bank in hand before you test drive. Dealers try to get you on the lot for a reason and it's because they and their environment are tailor built to get you to buy a car. Going in without knowing your financing terms and letting an expert at selling cars lead you down their donkey trail is going to result in more money spent. Full stop.

The main argument for Hyperinflation I've seen its about Saudi Arabia no longer taking dollar for the oil transactions, Dollar beeing backed by oil, this seems like danger, However, that may be misinformation as well

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Thanks for this! I guess it was cracking blocks and not heads, it’s been awhile lol

I could do 36 months at 9%

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What if you asked questions instead of making assumptions? See my other comment.

The US dollar drives all world currency. If it were to experience hyperinflation the likes which we've seen in lesser developed nations, no currency in the world would be safe.

> Perhaps I have been given misinformation, but I have seen several people saying that the USD may be on the verge of hyperinflation

It seems highly unlikely that USD will experience hyperinflation. And, if it does, to be honest, it'll be because the world economy is collapsing as a whole and no currency will be safe.

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Get rid of it in one go before the interest freeze expires? Or pay it off monthly? And, would 10k would reasonably be enough of a down payment? It seems a little small to me, but I've never bought a home before so lol