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>On my 401K, I am investing my money on VITAX, FSKAX and SWPPX

Why? FSKAX already fully includes the others.

>specifically Vanguard S&P500 ETF and Totals bonds ETF in 90%, 10% ratio.

• Why ignore the US extended market?

• Why ignore ex-US?

• What made you decide ETFs over mutual funds?

>Should I follow this approach across all my retirement accounts and the brokerage account?

I wouldn't follow it in any account to be honest. Personally, I consider the S&P 500 obsolete for any account where you don't have a short list to pick from (because of bullets 1 & 2).

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Yea, and those people are miserable.

Hey, be careful of this comment in this sub. u/KaiserTNT will tell you are entitied.

How far are you from retirement? Why are you investing in a brokerage account before maxing your hsa, 401k and roth?

Yeah. I've got an 850 score and haven't carried a balance on a credit card in 20 years. I pay no attention to the interest rate of my credit cards.

I suppose if I need to get another mortgage someday the good score might come in handy, but otherwise it serves no real purpose in my life.

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• Retirement Accounts
• "How to handle $"

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Because high utilization tells banks or lenders that you’re probably getting way over what you can pay with your income and should probably not lend you more money that you might not be able to pay.

The recommendation to use credit cards is mostly so if the card gets swipe with fraudulent transactions that they criminals didn’t spend your own money and therefore it’s much easier to dispute, much easier for them to close the account and then re-issue you a new number / card. And also there are rewards to take advantage off.

You should be using credit card like a debt card. Spend what you can pay / afford monthly and pay it off.

Bruh.... I've been talking about the delta between the new job vs old job all along.

The difference between the pay is such minimal that you didn't think about how ridiculous your antics is/was.

You obviously didn't calculate the gas it'll cost the op to drive everyday and other commuting necessities.

At the end of the day, I wouldn't doubt the OP is only taking home additional $100 each week.

>I understand this is the internet where nobody can ever admit to being wrong about something

Yes, you are correct here. You are clearly wrong in this case.

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My severance last year was also taxed higher than my normal paycheck (43% vs 27%). Not sure why, but I had no say in the matter. I did get most of that money back when I filed my tax return last month though

Move out and get a job. Yes. Yes.

Sure. General rule of thumb is no more than 1/3 of your gross pay, but obviously this doesn't make sense after a while. There'd be no reason for you to spend 66k/yr on rent for 1 person.

> NY state

Then yes. It should be deductible.

If you put away $3k/mo it still will be 3-5 years until you get your down payment nest egg. So you are in that area where equities sometimes work and sometimes don't. If it were me, I think I would keep half of the investment in short term deposits like HYSAs, MM (think VMFXX), CDs or short Treasuries and the other half in some type of low beta ETF. Think SCHD or JEPI. Take a look at r/dividends and read some of their ideas.

>Is there anyway to switch it to a 2022 contribution instead? My wife for example didnt hit the max for 2022 so maybe we can do that?

As long as you have unused "room" in your / her allowed 2022 Roth IRA limit you can submit a request to your IRA provider to "recharacterize" your 2023 contributions to be treated as being for 2022 instead. This retroactively changes which tax year those dollars count for. You have until April 18th to change your contributions to be for 2022.

Past that, you have two main options:

1. Execute a "removal of excess contributions" to undo the deposit and return that money to you. Any growth those dollars may have earned also has to come out, which will be reported as taxable dollars on a 1099-R you'd get next year. You may also owe a 6% "early distribution penalty" on those returned earnings, but I seem to remember seeing that penalty has been removed when doing a removal of excess.
2. Execute a "recharacterization" from your Roth IRA to a Traditional. Like changing the tax year, this retroactively treats that money as having gone into your Traditional IRA instead of the Roth. There is no income restriction around adding money into a Traditional IRA each year. However if either/both of you are covered by a retirement plan through your employer, your income would likely limit your ability to deduct that contribution on your tax form.

What job occupation is this?

>Is spending ~2.8k pm on single bedroom units okay

Seems like a lot. It's up to you.

What are your alternatives?

You increased your salary by 50% for an additional 10 hours a week commute.

Financially it makes sense. As long as expenses are under 15K.

I’ve heard many times that most people restart their career paths 2-3 times in their life. Do what makes your life the best quality you can. Time is the one thing you can’t change. Do you want to do something you hate for more money or something you love for all that time?

No offense but 42k is fuck all money. This is absolutely worth it and your time honestly isn't worth that extra 18k and what it'll open up for you in the future. If it was an 80k job to a 100k job, then yea, the money might not be worth it. But 42k to 60k? 100% worth it.

https://www.whitecoatinvestor.com/fix-backdoor-roth-ira-screw-ups/

Recharacterize it to tradtional contributions. Then do backdoor Roth conversions.

You may find these links helpful:

• Retirement Accounts
• "How to handle $"

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