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> A) you have a fairly new car most of the time that will likely not give you issues.

New cars cost more.

> B) Warranty/Repairs/Maintenance is typically covered for the life of the leas

New cars cost more

> C) Short term commitment

Very expensive short term commitment. The financially responsible decision is making a long term commitment to a car and driving it into the car.

Why is that?

That's unfortunate.

Yeah I figured, thanks for confirming! 😁

No, you're not missing out.

You don't use a credit score for anything other than to get approved for stuff when you need it.

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Credit cards with better rates? Why would you care about rates? You obviously pay them off every month with an 850 score. There is nothing you need to do with a credit score other than maintain it for when you need it to apply for credit.

>Commuting sucks, period. Anything over 15mins is worth at least 50k more.

THIS COMMENT IS WHAT I"M ADDRESSING. That you willfully keep arguing numbers from OPs actual situation instead of defending your above position is enough to tell me you realize how ridiculous an assertion it was. I understand this is the internet where nobody can ever admit to being wrong about something, even when they know they are. So...we agree to disagree, I guess.

I would take the job assuming advances your career.

Your future comp is loosely based on your current comp. Raises are generally based on a percentage of pay. Higher paying roles usually have more responsibilities, and more responsibilities lead to promotions, until you completely top out for your ability.

So let’s say you get an average raise of 4% per year.

After 10 years

• Job A ($42k) you will be making $56k and have cumulative wages of about $500k
• Job B ($60k) you will be making $80k and have cumulative wages of $700k

In real life it will probably be more exaggerated because if you take Job B and you’re good at it, you’ll be promoted faster than if you stay with Job A due to the responsibility snowball.

HOWEVER if both of these are just random jobs, not careers, then this doesn’t apply. Careers snowball, odd jobs don’t.

And to avoid transaction fees with Ally's money market/savings account, the rule of thumb would be to minimize outgoing wire transfers, i.e transfer money from Ally to a different bank, right?

Transfer between accounts within Ally, and from Ally to say, National grid/Verizon for utilities should be free, as those are considered ACH transfers?

True, but if you’re just starting out with HYSA probably good to start with just a general account.

I'm so sorry for your loss.

About 10 years ago I lost my grandmother. While visiting for the funeral, I broke state law by driving her car -- as did my aunt. It turns out that in that state, only the spouse can legally drive the car until it's retitled.

Who knows about your state. I suggest asking the funeral home people when you pick up the death certificates. Then verify what they tell you before you go any further.

You want to do whatever is legal...but remember that the dealership and Kia don't want some "consumer affairs" reporter broadcasting on TV how Kia is bullying some poor widow.

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Don’t waste another moment thinking about it—just buy it! Exactly what you’re looking for.

Thanks for the info everyone, misread the Google quick search results and thought it said 401k is under FDIC

>Let's be honest, credit is a scam.

A credit score is a product that is sold to lending institutions, not to the OP. Therefore, the OP is not being scammed by the mere existence of their credit score. You could hypothetically be attempting to paint banks as victims of this scam, but they’re informed consumers who know what they’re buying, so that seems overly generous to me.

Whether I owe or get a refund seems to change from year to year based on things I can't really predict at the start of the year (bonus, capital gains, etc.).

I gave up on trying to get my withholding right and now I just transfer a hundred bucks from each paycheck into savings. If I have to pay taxes when the time comes the money is there, if not I can take the money I accumulated and use it for something else.

You don't mention whether *you* want to move out. What does rent closer to the new job look like. If *you* want to move out and rent near the new job is reasonable, you can take the increased salary and have a short commute.

I made the decision to accept a long commute for less of a salary increase (but still significant) and ended up staying at that job for years and really liking it. I didn't move near the new job, but I did eventually find a good paying job closer to home.

There are a lot of other factors that go into the decision, but with only the information you've given here, it sounds like you should take the new job.

Also if you are early in your career, you will seriously benefit from the in-person development of your skills and relationships.

It looks like I should qualify, my income is relatively low. NY state

I was taught that leasing is best because

A) you have a fairly new car most of the time that will likely not give you issues.

B) Warranty/Repairs/Maintenance is typically covered for the life of the lease.

C) Short term commitment

I’m really new to all of this. I’m sure I wasn’t taught correctly.

Thanks for helping me see this in a positive way. I think the feeling of loss at having to cut a fat check is what’s brining me down, aside from feeling stupid. But yay! An interest-free loan!

Unless your state has really weird tax laws, contributing to an IRA reduces the amount of income that you get taxed on.

So if you make $100K and you contribute $10K to a traditional IRA, then for income tax purposes, you made $90K. (You still have to pay Social Security + Medicare on all $100K.)

This should be the same way for federal and state, though it's possible you live in a state with weird rules and would need to check the rules specifically for your state to make 100% sure that's the case. (I would be stunned if it isn't, though.)