This depends on your goals and current savings. Are you looking to FIRE? How much do you have saved in retirement/are you on track for your retirement goals? Any other major expenses/purchases in the horizon?

Always split your investing between timelines. Personal rule is to always bucket long term first (retirement), medium term (if applicable), then short term. After all savings goals are accounted for, the leftover money goes towards living/fun expenses.

Considering your income and timeline on a house, short term investing is probably the way to go. CDs are pretty solid rates right now. Tbills are also an option. Last option is an HYSA, which is still pretty solid.

Is it "useful" to add to the thread that you are also broke and also can't afford anything as most of the other posts in here? How is that useful?

The other comments in here aren't useful. They are simply commiserating that they can't afford things. How does that add value?

Think of this as a short term change. You do this job a year and apply for something paying 75k next year that’s remote or hybrid. 2 years max at this job.

It depends on how aggressively you want to save for a home.

But maxing out retirement early means you have more years of compounded growth. The earlier money gets in there, the more time it has to grow. Just 10 years makes a huge, huge difference for retirement. Getting as much in now - before you have to spend money maintaining a house (and if you want kids in your future, etc) will pay off hugely long term.

It seems to me that you have enough to max 401k, max IRA and save for a house at a pretty good pace. But you'll have to decide the split there.

WRT market - buying at a discount is a good idea, the market being down is good news for a long/mid term outlook.

Again, how much to put in the market depends on your time horizon. If you think you will be buying a house later than 5 years, I'd say put your money there. If less than 5 years, go with HYSA and maybe bonds. (I bonds are still doing quite well but you can only buy $10k per year and other caveats that have been mentioned on this sub many times in the past.)

That's a 40%+ increase in pay. Hell yes you should take it. Just don't drive something stupid ‐ keep your car economical to minimize gas and depreciation costs.

Yearly raises and promotions tend to be % based, so jumping up that much in salary will deliver additional gains over time. Move somewhere closer later if you need to.

To be honest, I was just replying to OP's lament on minimum wage being low. Whether that is ultimately a good thing for inflation or the economy is up for debate. I don't think I have the information to be right or wrong.

However, if I was a young adult making minimum wage (and I did for a few months), voting for this change is the first thing I would do as that is a simple thing to exercise. I don't believe you have a right to complain until you actively participate in changing it. Right or wrong.

You would hate your life and want your current job back.

Commuting sucks, period. Anything over 15mins is worth at least 50k more.

You are also forgetting you would need to waste another 15-30 mins to get ready for work. Time you would never get back.

Find another WFH job and just double up.

The gas and wear and tear on the vehicle can add up as well. Depending on gas mileage of the vehicle you can be looking at 2k a year in gas and quite a bit of wear and tear, changing tires earlier, more maintenance, addition depreciation because of extra mileage (2k+ miles)

I’d factor in somewhere in the 3-4k range for vehicles expenses based on all that, which brings your take home pay down.

Also, factor in whether you want to actually work in person or prefer WFM. This can make a big difference in your personal happiness.

Lastly, look at the future potential of both opportunities. Is there more room to move up at your current job? Have you tried asking for a raise? Maybe let them know you got an offer for 60k and are considering it, but that you prefer to stay if they can make a better offer (this depends on your relationship with them). You’d be surprised what a company would do to keep you, given that you provide them value.

Yea, or a receipt, or a confirmation email, or an invoice

(I'm not saying you should have one, often they won't, unless asked. We are asking if you do, which you didn't answer lol)

No, not in writing.

Like a photo? What evidence should I have. They told me it was picked up.

>they confirmed that the equipment was picked up when I contacted them after being charged the first time.

In writing?

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Lol no, I'm not salty, it's just funny that you think this was useful in any way. Clearly if you can afford to live your life happily, which if you make 250k a year then you still do, even after inflation then you aren't the target audience of the question. It's not really that hard to understand, but I guess I already knew that even if you make good money it doesn't make you smart.

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That's pretty normal. They way I describe it is you're now paying rent on the money you used to buy the home.

>What does this comment have to do with the post? Obviously it won't affect you if you are making 260k a year....

Well, the person asked "How does one stay sane after all these prices increases? It’s out of control"

I am just sharing my opinion that I feel totally sane. I am not affected.

The OP isn't asking for only the opinions of those who can't stay sane.

Are the ones who aren't affected not allowed to comment?

Are you only allowed to comment if you are affected by prices?

Last time I checked this was a message board where anyone can post their opinions.

So now people can't comment afford they aren't affected? Of course it answers the post directly.

You just don't like the answer and are salty.

ANYONE CAN ANSWER THE QUESTION. MY ANSWER IS THAT I AM NOT AFFECTED.

Does that bother you? So just because I make money I can't comment that it does not affect me? LOL

A lot of banks won't do hard pull

Bank of America

Citi

Discover

Capital One

Amex

Wells Fargo

And that's just off the top of my head. Here's another list: https://www.doctorofcredit.com/credit-cards/which-credit-card-companies-do-a-hard-pull-for-a-credit-limit-increase/

Unless you're applying for a mortgage in the next 3-6 months and your scores are already marginal I wouldn't stress a hard pull too much.

Okay if you end up being too high in income, you can still do it through Backdoor Roth, so read up on that if so.

I would just calculate based on your base salary. If you get the bonus, you can recalculate and adjust the percentage down afterward. Most bonuses are paid at the beginning of the following year anyway, which means your 2023 bonus will probably be paid in 2024 and count towards the 2024 limit, not 2023.

Most brokers hold your stocks in "street name". That means your stocks are owned by the brokerage according to the books of DTCC (an entity that keeps track of who owns what stocks) as well as the company (in which you own stocks). Your ownership is only reflected in the books of your broker. So if your broker went bust and had no stocks to give you, you'd be screwed. That's where SIPC comes in - they will guarantee that you get those stocks.

Beware though, the SIPC will only give you the AAPL shares with some delay (say 1-2 months) but it won't guarantee any losses in the value of those AAPL shares in the meanwhile (even though you have no way to sell them).

SIPC also specifically does NOT prevent against employee fraud at your broker. That is a separately covered by something called a "fidelity bond".

The SIPC insures 500k worth of equity, options, cash, bonds and mutual funds positions (but not Futures). Cash is limited to 250k

Some brokers like Fidelity have an insurance coverage over and above SIPC

Why not both?

Ask your bank for $5k limit, wait a month or two, and then apply for a new card from a different bank.

Higher limit on existing cards will get you higher limit on new cards.

You need to keep balance low and ask for credit limit increase periodically.

You can also just pay off the balance early, Most banks only report your statement balance once a month.

If you’re young, assuming you are since you’re at home and your parents don’t want you to move out, 60k is going to do a whole lot more for your career and salary trajectory than work/life balance.

>401k accounts are FDIC insured up to $250k

If your 401k is in FDIC-insured vehicles, you're doing your 401k very wrong.

Assuming your 401k is actually properly invested and not sitting in a deposit account, the pinned megathread explains why your scenario isn't a concern.