Exactly what I’m doing! In fact, I probably won’t even add a new outlet. I would have just put a plate on the box, pushed it into the wall and patched over the hole if it wasn’t against code. Got this same idea from a couple other brilliant minds on here, thank you!

That’s exactly what I’m trying to do right now! Someone already suggested it, what a great idea. Thanks for your help, I never would have come up with it on my own.

Def 9/16” Must’ve been a custom job.

If the gaps are big it’s best to get something more solid in there for backing before taping. I can’t tell how big they are, but if the gaps are like 1/2 inch or more I’d just cut some strips from some of your drywall waste and fill those gaps as best you can. Then, tape.

A little mud goes a long ways. It’s easier to add more thin coats, than it is having to sand down thick coats. When I did my bathroom I ended up doing 3 coats, starting with 6 inch blade, then 8 then 12. Then I sanded most off cause it was too thick, and did the same process but with much thinner coats. Light sanding between coats. Turned out good.

I hated it so much though that I have hired a pro for every mud job big or small since then 😂

Thanks for the suggestion! Unfortunately there is basically zero give to the conduit. I’ve just learned that to remain up to code / pass inspection in Chicago you MUST use steel conduit for all electrical wiring. So if I go that route I’ll need to extend the conduit, not the end of the world but still very annoying.

I can't find what I am looking for, but they used to make door sweeps for the bottom that push the bottom seal down when the door closes for a tighter seal.

Learned it from Tom Silva! In my 40s…

Ah ok, by mostly luck I went with an airless sprayer for the one unfinished ceiling I did a few years ago. I looked at the ratings for usage and it was clear I needed to buy an entry level pro sprayer. The comparison is simple, the $300 Graco X5 is rated at 125 gallons per year. The (at the time $900) Graco 395 is rated at 50 gallons per week. The 395 should last me a lifetime as long as I keep it clean and oiled.

It's your house...you can do as you please.

But this is wrong...dangerous, and foolish. No disrespect intended.

That roof structure was designed to do its name "ROOF STRUCTURE" - ala hold up the roof...the roofing, the insulation, etc. and carry those loads over to load bearing walls. That's called 'dead load'.

Now anyone with half a brain knows that service people walk across those all day long...that's called live load.

Generally some safety factor is used because people do stupid things in homes...but 'stacking weight' equivalent to two people at a point load is hazardous.

All beams deflect under load...so if you 'attempt' this recognize that your beams will deflect and apply forces greatest at the point of the load...the idea to spread the weight out across trusses is a prudent one (albeit foolhardy) - whatever beam you select it will apply the most force to the two closest and the least farther away. Which means a lot of loading at two points NOT DESIGNED to carry those loads.

Among other loads...are 'new roofing' (often 2nd layers of roofing are laid atop the old) - perhaps you already have tile...or composite...really irrelevant to additional loads only if a 'change' were to take place...also snow/ice/water loading...as well as wind and seismic loading.

So while it may 'hold it' it may not hold it under ALL situations and scenarios for which the structure was designed to perform...ala NOT COLLAPSE ON YOU when the 'weird' happens...such as some fatter service techs walking around...while there's snow/ice on the roof AND a car just ran into the building. So adding another 550-600 pounds (don't forget the members and attachment materials all add weight too)...or when an earthquake happens...or high winds.

Someone touched on in the comments the fact of the potential of a 'swinging load'...which is SIGNIFICANTLY greater than static loads.

MY ADVICE is to consult a STRUCTUAL ENGINEER - some calculations are beyond the 'simple calculators' which can be found online...there's more to structural engineering than just a 'beam loading calc'.

Edit: To include: That even your wall cladding (ala drywall or plaster) could also crack...not only do beams deflect but so do the walls that are under those roof pressures. Drywall isn't flexible...nor is plaster...so you may also have surface problems to deal with.

Edit2: I suspect you're wanting to hang a person...I hope in some sort of romantic/intimate manner and not permanently. I would recommend you transfer loads to the floor. As you didn't say what you'd like to hang...there are few things 350ish pounds that I can surmise beyond 'a person' (bsdm I presume). Reading comments you're on the 2nd floor with this weight...which adds to the center of gravity situations. You can reinforce the trusses too...remembering that the more cross sectional area the 'stronger' your reinforcing becomes. Best would be to calculate the deflection and have spacers on the trusses to allow for uniform loading with deflection. Without knowing what you're hanging - and for how long would determine how best to plan...a 'person' wouldn't be full time loading (I hope not anyway) - but still 'weird stuff happens' at unusual and unplanned moments. Also to consider...that home is designed to 'stay up' (for as long as it can) during a fire event...where loading would worsen that situation.

Edit3: A typical house is designed to carry 40 psf (pounds per square feet) live load...but that's on the floor. I believe rooves are 10 psf - but don't quote me...and WHY you should consult a structural engineer.

It's cheap where I am (PNW). $20/yd to dispose. They grind it up into recycled road base and resell it for $30/yd.

Mine was through hunter, and they have a limited selection. It was a decently generic kit that installs a remote receiver in the fan unit and has the wall outlet with the remote. So I could see some other brands having correct colors

You should post this question to the Terry Love plumbing forum, they're great for stuff like this, the users there have lots and lots of plumbing expertise.

I suspect that they would tell you most of the stuff you're proposing will not help your situation and you will probably be worse off doing it.

Is there a way to layer it with tiles or something similar?

Flip this box around and make it face the closest. There are fittings that allow the conduit to connect to the box, you'll have to loosen the nuts and take the conduit off the box along with the wires. Cut a hole in the closet for this box. Then flip the box around and put the conduit back on. Now use this box as a junction box for new outlet you want on the bookcase side. Lastly, patch the previous hole on the bookcase side.

You mentioned cutting a hole in the closet behind the box. You could flip the box and either have an outlet in that closet or put the blank cover there, and install a new box fed from this one.

A high gloss paint will be easiest to clean.

Generally most of the sheetrock in your house is half inch. The wall inside and the ceiling of your garage are 5/8" for fire resistance.

Honestly I'd be concerned about burning wood in there. If somebody adds a few too many logs to the bowl, your ceiling is on fire.

Have you considered like a propane fire table thingie?

Are kids living in the house ? If so, what age?

Curtains can be crazy good insulators. I lived with my grandma after grad school, and she liked to keep the house at 80. I am warm most of the time anyway, so that wasn't gonna be good. I also had to take the door off my room (only location for cat's literbox was where the door swung), so I hung up a privacy curtain. Ran my portable AC in my bedroom and my room and the rest of the house were SIGNIFICANTLY different temperatures, with very very little gradient between. You'd pull the curtain aside and step into a fridge. It was beautiful.

Also I just hung my curtain off of a couple command hooks, easier than mounting a whole curtain rod.

Kind of. He measured against the stud and you can see a small gap. If he hooks the back of the drywall with the tape it'll likely land on the 1/2" mark pretty cleanly.

This but not a white one. When light hits a white one it appears as though the door is open.

I used an air sprayer but the coverage was SO SLOW.

Great work! Yes, a sprayer is the way for unfinished ceilings.

We used something similar as well. Super easy install and super effective.