Where I'm from, every junction box needs to be accessible (usually a little dry wall access panel); but we all know some naughty people who bury them behind walls. Depending on where you side....

I'd pop the box circles out on the side where you need the wired to go, put little plastic safety pulls in the holes, run the wire through and into a new electrical box in the location you want. If your wire isn't long enough, I'd wire nut long pig tails in your current box and out the side holes into your new box. Then I'd bury your old box in the wall. I'm bad.

Ooooh, got you. This is going to come across rude, but I promise you it's coming from a good place.... Paint the porch whatever color you want because you're just gonna burn the whole place down anyway.

Remove any fasteners holding the box and see if there's enough play in the conduit to move it over a few inches. It'll depend on where that conduit is attached to the stud.

If it moves far enough then just shim the stud with 2 more 2x4 scraps and reattach the box (cut a new hole in the drywall for it).

If you can't move it far enough then you'll have to open that back wall further and figure out how to get some play in the conduit.

Weird that there's metal conduit in the wall. That's bad luck on your part.

This, plus there's often regulations around setbacks and zoning that can come into play. Many areas allow an uncovered deck to extend into required side yards or rear yards. but once you put a roof on it, you have to stick to the setbacks.

Pressure washer wand might help cut a tunnel

Move somewhere warmer

All good. We don’t learn things if no one teaches us.

Thanks! It only took about 4 hours to prime....21 hours to paint that ceiling.

Lesson of the day: Buy an airless sprayer and it'll take 1/4 the time!

Thank you!! Sorry for the bad lighting it’s dark outside. https://imgur.com/a/q4ynSSC

The black ceiling is actually really cool. Nicely done.

I always do the first coat with AP, but I like the lightweight for sanding

Moveable bowl, bought at Target years ago.

Post pictures to Imgur. Post the link to the photos.

Sorry, is it a built-in fire pit? Or is it one of those 30-ish inch fire pit bowls that are moveable?

In addition to all the good weatherstripping advice, sometimes the strike plates need to be adjusted to hold the door closed tighter. And if locking the deadbolt closes that gap, do that.

https://www.reflectwindow.com/products/kerf-mounted-weatherseal-extended-reach-white?variant=29985018806390&currency=USD&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpaqxnY2F_gIVxf3jBx2PogkGEAQYAyABEgKeAfD_BwE

Any Links? Had trouble finding one.

“Bed Talk” lmao

I would, but for some reason I don’t have the icon to add a photo I can only add a link. it’s kind of driving me crazy.

The ceilings are high, there is a fan, its open screened in everywhere... but yeah trust me I'm aware its not really up to fire safety code. It sounds ridiculous but there really isn't a better place for it.

If you're attaching the deck to the house you 100% need to get down to below frost depth, otherwise the deck will pull away from the house.

TLDR: IMO, don't take the "quick and easy" way out. In retrospect, I should have bit the bullet and had the entire slab demoed out and poured new with rebar. I could have inspected the entire plumbing & water systems/foundation wall footings, and it would have been done in a month at roughly the same price.

Jacking the slab didn't work for a number of reasons:

1. My house has three support/jack posts cast into the slab supporting the main floor beam. The way the support posts were incorporated into the structure, they had been set into a unified concrete footing (lazy pouring approach of the early 80's). This created a problem when attempting to lift the slab, as isolating the post footings from the slab without compromising the footing or jacking out sections of the slab wasn't possible.

2. Line locating. The sewer and water line locating completed by three different plumbers was not accurate. I was told accuracy within 6", and it was out in some spots by almost 18" by two of the three plumbers. One drill went through a line when the slab jackers were installing their ports, and they ended up pumping enough 4lb foam into the line that flushing toilets or running taps into sinks was no longer an option.

3. Oversold/Underdelivered. The structural engineer and unaffiliated slab lifting company I used were both specialized in residential/commercial foundation repair. Engineer convinced me that it would be cheaper/easier/faster to do poly jacking than demoing the entire slab and repouring. The slab lifting company swore up and down that it could be done and I'd have level within 3/4" over 20', which I was good with. When all was said and done (three separate lift appointments), I was still 3-1/2" out at the lowest point and $17k poorer, in addition to a bunch of sewer line that I had to replace at about $1200 in material for concrete and pipe/fittings due to standard waivers that were part of the job contract. Once I jacked out the slab around where the sewer lines were, I saw some issues with poly lifting. The slopes of my pipes had been messed up by the sagging slab, and then messed up differently by being lifted. There was a lot of sheer stress on the system as I cut it apart.

Ultimately, it was a good thing that they messed up the sewer lines, because jacking it out was the only way that I would have discovered the culprit leak.

I'll ask the question first: why in the fuck is there a fire pit INSIDE of an enclosed space?! Lol, that's nuts!

In my opinion it more hassle than it's worth but Google "tub reglazing kit" it will glaze the entire tub. Many options are available. Otherwise, I would simple stick with an appliance chip repair enamel in matching color.

Post pictures