The valve and the valve cartridge should be different, the cartridge sits in the valve and should be removable most likely after the handle is removed. You can start at the cartridge like u/jerseywiseguy said and if that doesn’t fix it then move on to bigger things like the valve. Make sure you shut your water off to the house before removing that cartridge and replacing.

I'm going to be honest with you. I'm an inspector and posts like this freak me out. Please don't build this. If you don't know how the basics of framing, code requirements, how to size members based on local design criteria, then this could end poorly. If your posts are 4x4s, I'd bet your deck is from the early 2000s or earlier. It's probably already undersized compared to current codes. Adding a roof on top without taking into account all factors is a bad idea.

13mm

This is the plastic knob that you have to unscrew two bolts, remove it, then put it back on. If you’re careful I could get away without shutting off the water but shit loves to go wrong when I try to fix stuff so… not gonna tempt fate.

Reddit brother. The board is 5/8 thick but it’s cut before the stud so the board has a slight bend. If you’re going to complete this job use 1/2 drywall because you can always add on with plaster to make a nice joint. If you buy 5/8 you MIGHT get a bump…….. but you have 7/8 to play so you can just go light on the compound. Either way you have play room, good luck sincerely a framing and drywall contractor

With moen 1222 and 1225 cartridge you don’t need to remove the cartridge or turn off the water to reverse it just take the handle off and spin the center brass piece 180 degrees.

Thanks

How are you taking the second picture from the back? Won't you have access from that side?

Could be a nail plate, CSST has nail plates that extend about 6” past the stud. Simple answer don’t drill it.

That is "not a crack". That is cracked and sunken concrete. Top coating will not be a viable solution. If you were to remove the "triangular" sunken area and replaced it somewhat on the same level as the area outside the triangular sunken area you will have about 20+ bags 60 lb. of concrete to mix and that is a lot. If the sunken part is thicker than 4 inches you just add more and more concrete mix and more and more labor. You need to decide to spend money on a patch that will always look like a patch or go all the way, which can be costly.

I had the same dishwasher. Nothing but trouble once it started having issues. Spent about $100 on latch, seals, springs and other minor parts. Wish I would have replaced it sooner. Best of luck.

Yea. You can see the sheet isn't entirely against the stud and it could be hooked. That's the correct way to measure it in this instance.

1/2" plywood will the stiff enough. No flex.

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) yes, please do

Does it need to be a certain thickness? I don't want it to flex. I am thinking around 3'x3'

We've had the same issues with ours as well. We opened the door and panel as well as had to mess around with the drain. We where about to give up on the damm thing and then it suddenly worked on us out of nowhere. Hopefully some of the tips provided could help out.

I had the same idea, but was told a junction box must be accessible to remain code compliant, so I can’t just drywall over it unfortunately.

Make sure you have full insertion.

Y'all haven't heard the gospel of gaff tape.

You don't need the outlet anymore? Unless I'm not understanding what you want to do, I'd disconnect the outlet and remove the box. Put a blank face on the box and replace it. Then fill the gap with a drywall patch. You might have to cut a large hole in the drywall to access the conduit connections. The original box will become a junction box.

If you do want to retain the outlet, do what I said then add a new box for the outlet. Knock out the appropriate number of holes in the old box, and run cable (not pain the ass conduit) to the new box.

Post a picture.

What is the surface made of?

What type of vacuum hose is it? Shop vac? Is it really a 2-1/2" hose or is that just the fitting that connects to the vacuum? I use 1-7/8" hoses with ends that fit my 2-1/2" shop vac inlets. The part that fits into shopvac accessories fits into a 2" Fernco and a 1-1/2" PVC pipe should fit into the end of a 1-1/2" Fernco fitting.

So, I use a 2" to 1-1/2" Fernco coupler to attach my 2-1/2" shop vac inlet via a 1-7/8" hose to a 1-1/2" PVC pipe.

Making a cyclone dust collector?

Plywood.

1/2

Why risk it, double sided tape on the channel