That is the plan! Someone suggested basically this same thing, and I really don’t even need the outlet at all, so I think just flipping it around so that’s it’s accessible in the closet will be enough. Thank you so much for the help!

I bet people are shocked to find out how bad an electrician you are.

That’s hire a pro size. If you can’t read a tape you’re in over your head.

I do. Both of my shop vacs have a 2-1/2" inlet and 1-7/8" hoses with a connector that fits the 2-1/2" vacuum inlet.

So it really depends upon where OP is getting his/her measurements from. I use a 2" to 1-1/2" Fernco coupler to attach my shopvac hose to 1-1/2" PVC.

The number one tip I received that helped so damn much is to thin the mud down. It's way too thick as purchased. You want it to be roughly the consistency of sour cream so it goes on thin and smooth.

The number 2 tip is to know when you're beat and pay for help. I started mudding my huge basement and realized it would take me weeks or months to complete. I paid a pro to do the rest and it was done in a week. Money well spent.

Thanks for responding. Yes I’ve already removed the screws, and I at least know enough to have switch off the circuit breaker. I’ve worked with some electricians a few times so I (hopefully) know enough not get myself killed lol. The box is only held in place by the conduits, but I think I’ve got a couple possible solutions now thanks to these comments, I appreciate the help!

Yep, that is exactly what my sparky installed for the same dilemma. I have one circuit that has both ceiling Down lights and a fan on the same light switch. He put in a remote control that operates both, so instead of flipping the switch I just use the remote - the switch stays always on.

Picture of said remote control: https://i.imgur.com/GR7l3ZL.jpg

1/2 “…the mud at that joint makes it look thicker

If you’re going this route, one trick I use: start the hammer drill on drill and scuff the stone at the whole a bit, eventually switch to hammerdrill and keep your finger on the trigger as light as possible. Those two combined will increase your odds of not skipping the bit and marring the new brick

I’m installing built in bookcases and the outlet is right in line with the frame. I really only need to move it a few inches so I actually think I DO have enough wire to do what you suggested. But apparently I can just flip the box around and re-install it in the closet. If that doesn’t work I’ll pick up some sort of conduit extension and try your idea, thank you!

Lol naw

I want to make a board for laying on my lap when I play on the coach. What is a good material for this that doesn't flex much and isn't heavy?

Thank you for the response. I’m installing built in bookcases and the outlets current location is directly in line with the outside frame of the end unit, I considered just cutting a notch around the outlet before learning it was against code. I assume the same goes for a junction box? I naively thought moving the outlet a few inches would be quick and easy.

Keep in mind, doing drywall well the first or even tenth time is going to end in disappointment if your expectations are even remotely high. Mudding drywall is an art. You can learn the basics watching videos, but you'll only get better through loads of practice.

I also wouldn't recommend having started your first time with hotmud for anything other than filling large gaps. It's not nearly as forgiving as pre-mix taping, all-purpose or topping mud. It's also way harder to scrape or sand.

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About tree fitty

It’s cut so it’s not the factory edge anymore.

I'm in camp 1/2. Because if you zoom in the drywall is not tight against the wood. That's your 1/16 difference

Got it. So let's say you are right and it's not joists it's the bottom chord of the engineered roof trusses. Would that mean you can't put any load on it? I am genuinely asking because I know people walk on top of it in attics. If someone were to hang from the bottom of it (across more than one), wouldn't it be the same?

Flip that box around so it faces inside the closet, use it as a junction box, cover it with a blank plate,and run flexible cable to a new box in the location you want.

Wow, never even considered this, I really don’t even need the outlet at all, but from what I understand, it needs to be accessible, so I think just flipping it around would be enough. Thank you so much. It looks like there are screws facing the drywall just above the wall opening. So to remove the box, I just cut the opening a little higher so I can and remove those screws, then pull it off the conduits? Thanks again!

This all depends upon where you live, what the weather conditions are and your knowledge of minimum safety standards (code).

As a GC, I could build something that would be safe because I have the experience. As a novice, are you taking into account snow load, wind shear, uplift and other various weather situations? Roof slope? Drainage? You've now created an impervious area that depending upon your lot size vs. your current impervious coverage percentage, may exceed local regulations.

Additionally, attaching posts to deck joists, then adding a roof creates a completely different load on those joists. Typically, posting up for a deck roof, especially a detached structure, would have those posts carry all the way down to concrete piers where the piers are the proper size and depth for your local conditions.

One awning I built many years ago at the back of a house was listed as being in a 120mph wind belt. That required stronger and more connections. I wouldn't have known had I not made drawings and submitted them for the permit.

So, no, your plan is not okay. You need to get with your local building department first.

I put in downspout drainage under a sidewalk at my house last fall.

4" corrugated drainage tile which is actually 4.75" OD so the tunnel under the sidewalk was much larger.
I just backfilled and soaked the dirt with a hose until it settled, backfilled again and soaked it again.

Another method of you're worried about supporting it is use expanding foam. It's a method used to Jack up sunken concrete driveway slabs, and a newer way to support fence posts. It will work just fine.

Personally I wouldn't really worry about it much. It's such a tiny area

Have you removed(cut) the nails or screws holding the box to the studs? Do that carefully, make sure the breaker is OFF and don’t cut the wires coming into the box. Once you cut see if the box can be moved about 3/4” into the wall. If so it will become a junction box the send the wires to the new box. If I were you, hire an electrician and see how it’s done.

Then don't hang anything more that the drywall that's already there. Engineered trusses are not designed to carry any floor load. They are designed only to carry the roof, and any expected snow load.

If you're considering modifying your trusses, you'll need to have a licensed engineer design the changes.

And they aren't joists. They're the bottom chord of the engineered trusses.

Seriously-- 2x4s aren't even included on span charts. Without a stamped engineer's drawing being followed, they don't carry weight when they're horizontal.