I suggest taking the door off, removing all the trims, and reframe the door. Cover the exterior, foam seal all the gaps, wrap the exterior, moisture barrier the interior, then drywall interior. Then rehung the door, with added weather stripping. Like what you would have done if you replace the door with one that is bigger or smaller. It’ll be similar steps.

Has a lot to do with safety in regards to snow load, uplift, wind shear, etc. and impervious area size compared to the size of your lot when added to your house, driveway, etc.

kerdi corner bench with kerdi fix TF out of it to the wall.

For a few hundred bucks you can purchase a
water pressure booster pump

I'm in MN with cold winters, I've got two outside spigots that are freeze proof 12" long. Pex lines inside connect to them. I never shut them off when winter rolls around and have not had a single issue since I installed them 8 years ago

Not sure why they used conduit in residential, maybe that's code where you are? If you need this outlet gone on the side it's on now here's how I'd go about it. Release the screws etc holding the box to the conduit, remove the box and flip it 180 degrees so it faces the closet so you can use it as a junction box. Add a new box where you're needing it, if conduits not needed you could use a remodel box that grips / mounts to drywall only (no stud needed). Then run wire from old, now flipped box to your new one.

If conduit is needed, you can come out of the side of the flipped box to the new one.

Easy, just detach the box from the tubes, and place the box at the new position. You will need to open the side holes to pass the cables coming from the tubes. Just mind that you will have exposed cables on that space

Typically attached on the outside of the box, just cut a big hole and patch it later…it’s far easier and looks better

The only way is to move the conduit or put more in running it to the new location. Problem is it doesn't look like you'll have enough wire. I'll let an electrician chime in but I believe your best bet would be to turn the existing box into a junction box (put a blank faceplate on it, it has to be accessible). Knock out the holes on the side, run wire to a new box. Again, there's probably a better solution but that's my inclination.

Would be a lot easier if you put a new box where you want it and just put a blank cover on this one and use as a junction box.

Smart bulbs will turn on every time you switch it off and on again which is a bit annoying. Are the pull cords missing? Usually the fan unit is all on one wall switch and you change the lights and fan setting with the pull cords.

EVERYTHING Frigidaire sucks! I say that as someone who owns a kitchen full of them from brand new.

• Dishwasher - broke 2 times, kinda broken a 3rd, sometimes one of the lights fails to toggle on the panel.
• Fridge - broke 5 times (ice maker still broken, after 4th break just left it disabled, it'll just break again)
• Stove - broke 2 times.
• Microwave - broke 3 times (3rd time was cheaper to replace than repair, bought LG)

Now 12 years old, but 60% of the breaks were within the first 3 years, ~80% within 5 years, and the last one was at year 8ish)

This isn't true for all tapes. It should measure correct when used this way, but the ends are notorious for being inaccurate.

You can see the inaccuracy in the photo. Use a photo editor or a post-it on your screen and grab 1/2 inch from further down the tape. Move it down to the end and you'll see your 1/2 inch reference line up with 9/16th.

Summary: it's 1/2 inch board. The tape measure is off by a 16th, like you said.

Thats actually exclusively who I've been watching! He makes it look super easy

The end moves to compensate for the thickness of the metal hook at the end. Op measured correctly.

I’m not going to say that I was “today years old” when I learned why the end of the tape moves like that, but I will admit that I was “embarrassingly old and should have known better” years old when I did.

One ladder trip with something like this could do the trick.

Check your local building code. We're doing similar, and we need to have posts that go below the frost line (northern climate)

Naughty naughty...

I built a wood bed a few years ago and had issues with squeaking. I used felt tape where I could to keep the wood from coming in direct contact with other wood - this helped a ton. Anywhere else I used wax - this took care of the few squeaks that were left. Completely squeak free now.

He’s the best.

maybe, really depends on the town and their building codes.

Mine for example, will let you build a garden trellis structure over your deck for plants or open lattice (for some shade) without needed a permit, regardless of the deck coverage or material used. But the moment you want to put an solid roof of any sort (including those cheap plastic panels) over it, you need a permit that includes structural drawings.

Can't recommend that guy enough, his tips have definitely helped me out

What's the purpose and does it have to look good?
If it's a medium-light duty task or temporary, pack out the pipe with EPDM or something similar until it's snug with the inside of the hose, sleeve the two together and throw a clamp on it

I literally just dealt with this exact scenario.

It's 1/2. The knockdown, primer and paint add to the thickness so if you were to peel all that off it would measure 1/2

That metal is just the framing from the underneath drywall work. Not structural at all.

I am not sure how long is the span because of all the insulation but based on the portion I was able too see I have an impression it's pretty long.

I will try to take better pictures to see if it helps.