Right? I’m looking at this like, are we all looking at the same tape measure? It’s 1/2” rock.

Call off the detectives. It’s 1/2” rock.

Hook the tape on the back of the sheet and pull it towards you, and it will measure 1/2”.

Looks like 5/8” keep in mind that drywall thins a bit at the edge.

I think I understand what the plan is. I just cant tell how the joists are fixed to the studs or rafters (having a hard time with the perspective). All I can see are the metal plates that, I assume, are just reinforcements. So then I am asking how are they fixed tot their crossmembers? If they are strong enough to support the weight then my next thought is how long of a span is that? If it’s several feet then I would not want to center it on the joists. The final question is “after unstallation, what if someone were to hang on it? Would it still hold?” I’m kinda imagining you’re looking to install a heavy bag.

Yes, it's 2x4 joists. It is close to the outside wall and another internal wall but the internal wall is just aluminium framing and I don't think it plays any structure role in it.

I am trying to understand what you proposed. Doing some research. Thanks.

You aren't "calculating". You are "guessing". There IS a calculation you can make which determines what the effective maximum load of a swinging weight is.

I would spend a little time looking this up, or maybe pay an engineer 50 bucks for an hour of math.

For a few months I thought it was my frame It was a broken box spring. Next weekend new box spring…. Silent Thanks for coming to my Bed Talk

Clearly drywall was too cheap looking so they made your walls out of 9/16 drop ceiling tiles.

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I think its half inch, and is just frayed from the cut

Go to home Depot and buy new q-lon door seals. They pull out. The new seal is like $8 each they are 7 feet long. You can cut them down with a knife.

What is the water pressure on the system? I would just try bypassing all filters and see if the sprinkler works then.

I believe this is the type of roof I have: https://ibb.co/NrBks8n

I know for a fact that the joists where the drywall ceiling is hanging from are 2x4's.

The solution if you still want to use the wall switch would be to permanently connect the power (take the switch out of the circuit entirely) and replace the wall receptacle with smart switches that are programmed to control the smart lights and a relay for the fan wirelessly.

pop can and a pair of scissors followed by some tape to seal.

Just put your mattress on the ground the bedframe can't squeak if you don't use it

That would make me nervous. Ceiling joists are usually just 2x4 trusses, maybe 2x6 at most. Not meant to carry heavy point loads and especially not in a single 500 lb weight.

Would be mildly better if it was closer to a wall than in the middle of the room.

If you must do it, don’t just place a 2x4 or even 4x4 across the top of the joists. The hole to connect to that would be difficult to seal properly.

I would build an inverted-T shape the same depth as the joist. The part between the joists is a 4x4 (or whatever height of the joists) and gets attached through the sides of the joists with proper construction screws. Then a longer piece of 2x4 is laid flat across the top of the insert and across at least 2-3 joist on either side and screwed into any wood it’s going over.

Drill a hole through the assembly into the room below. Insert proper eye-bolt (rated for 600lb or more) with a washer and nut on top to secure it.

Oof

This is why concrete sucks. To keep it from cracking you need a ton of rebar and have it like 6 inches thick. So yeah replace it with a 6 inch slab with tons of rebar.

Based on your answer I got the impression that the drawing I did is so bad that it might be giving the wrong impression on where I plan to lay the 4x4/2x4.

My plan is to lay it on top of the joists, not at all connected directly to the roof structure. Once laid down, I would put the insulation on top of it again. It would be flush with the ceiling.

Does it make sense? If not, what "four anchor points on the two trusses" are you referring to?

Sonoff makes a fan module that may work depending on if it has a remote.

I can't tell from any of the pictures if your roof/ceiling system has 2x4 bottom chord or not. Again, if what's under the insulation is 2x4s, don't do this. Not with a 4x4, not at all.

The end of a tape measure is supposed to move. It is designed to move exactly the thickness of the tab so that you can measure from either side of it.

The slop in the tape hook is designed to be the thickness of the hook, so it can be accurate for both push and pull measurements.

That’s a 7/16”

From the pic it looks like all the weight will be supported by the two 2x4s that you intend to span with the new 2x2 or 4x4. I don’t think the question is which material you should use. The question seems to be “are those four anchor points on the two trusses strong enough to support another 500 lbs?”