I’ve always used soap on all wood to wood contact points, but your wax should do similarly.

Close the door so it latches, put your foot down right at the door, and push the door farther in. Measure the gap between your foot and the door at the new position. Trim a piece of wood to the height of the door frame and the width you measured earlier, rip off old weather stripping, attach wood however you see fit, apply new weather stripping.

I've never done this and I'm talking out my ass but I think it should work. Probably have to adjust your strike plates for the locks to latch and bolt properly afterword

The real secret is the aluminum HVAC tape. It's like duct tape, but actually good 😆

Thank you!

I'm concerned there may be more rust underneath the metal bathtub drain, so I'm going to remove it first to make sure.

I've got my mom's old dansk pots, they have scratches inside them. Are they repairable? Anyone know of a food-safe/grade epoxy?

Like anything else, it boils down to the quality of the manufacturer and installation being done correctly, installation being more important of the 2. I’ve been to many houses with 20+ year old Andersen doors that function perfectly, however, when the 3 point lock does eventually break in an Andersen, it is kinda costly at around $250+ for the part alone.

If you don't care about looks you can get a porcelain repair paint and just dab it on the spot. It comes in a bottle similar to nail polish.

All that old driveway needs to be removed, the bed will all be releveled, new bed of stone, etc.

Pack it as best you can with dry concrete. It will take slightly long but enough water will get in from the soil for it to set.

What is the depth of the rock bed? 6", 8"?

Replace, because of that dip, any repairs will be short lived.

Multi-point locks come with plenty of other problems though

I have used a “fernco” rubber 1.5 to 2.0 Rubber will stretch to accommodate- That 2” vacuum hose end is pretty thin so the “pipe sizing” for ID isn’t true.

Who the fuck uses a 2,5 inch vaccum hose? Whats this for? But your answer is in the comments already, a 1,5 to 2 converter followed by a 2 to 2,5 converter.

Bad things

Duct first, but then a good layer of electrical to seal everything up.

Just tape it, it's not permanent.

I mean if they left thinking that was dandy, what is bringing them back gonna do?

I had the same issue with my Frigidaire, except the latch switch was broken and the harness was melted. Ended up replacing the entire harness. It wasn't as hard as I expected, and I probably could have gotten away with just spicing in some spare connectors, but at least I didn't have to buy a new dishwasher. Seems to be a very common issue.

Just get some 1/2“ screws, that ducting doesn't need much. Pre-drill in solid hardwood.

fuhgeddaboutit

I have an old Frigidaire dishwasher that came with the house when we bought it.

Not sure if it was doing the same as yours but it would just completely lose power in the middle of a cycle and then come back on (seconds, minutes later) with a PF error. Running it again, was usually fine.

Then it got to the point where it would always crap out at the beginning of the cycle.

There should be a button combo you can do to make it go through a test of all the cycles. That might help you isolate the issue. For me, it still crapped out at the beginning

Bought a main controller board that sits behind the door as it contains the main relays (I think) off eBay for really cheap. Picked up the seals and latches off an appliance repair site that has individual how-to videos for every part on the site. Replaced everything and it's been perfect since. $100 for everything.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/M-D-7-ft-x-2-in-White-Top-and-Sides-Door-Jamb-Kit-Vinyl-Foam-Door-Weatherstrip/3200767

measure and cut to fit then preset 3 nails in each close door and compress seal about halfway and drive the nails then add a nail between the nails on the long sides

I'll cut a screw tip off with an angle grinder if the length is worrisome. And it's maple so a pilot hole is needed.

Step one would have been not to have huge gaps in the corners tbh...

The job starts with hanging the drywall. The cheat is to use Great Stuff to fill gaps, use a filet knife to cut it flush and move straight to tape and compound...

But that's in the past.

You need to sand the highspots until your either flat or to the paper. Then start from there with tape and compound.

YouTube has lots of videos that make it look easy. It won't be, but with a few extra hours of sanding you'll still be successful.

Also, forget hot mud. It's hard to even know how much strength hot mud provides, it's more about working speed which isn't your concern. Premix is way more forgiving