Do you have hole saws? I'd be inclined to make a bushing out of a piece of 1x4. As long as there are no leaks it will work fine.

In addition to fixing the weather stripping, look into getting a storm door.

What happens if the food is stolen?

It is very possible my first mudding job looked about like that. But the learning curve isn't too steep, and plaster is pretty forgiving.

Knock down high spots and paper any junctions or corners where you haven't yet. Then just keep on going, smoothing rough spots, and working toward an overall skim coat. I always prefer a good flexible 6" knife for most of that. One trick is to use a worklight at a steep raking angle, so you can see all the imperfections.

Don't be in a hurry and it will eventually get done, and you'll probably be half-decent with a mudding knife by then.

Is that akin to the kid who breaks the plates so they don't have to do dishes?

Pumps like this are quite sensitive to how high they need to lift the water.

Personally I'd suggest doing a test on the pump/sprinklers first. Just connect the pump and existing pressure tank to a 3/4 hose fitting, run your hose out to the sprinkler, and make sure the pump and well can run your sprinkler. This lets you know if new piping will fix your issue or not.

If the pump does not keep up to a sprinkler, then either it's lifting beyond what it's rated for, or it's badly worn. Some wells tend to pick up a little sand, and the sand chews up the impeller. Or if the pump ran dry for a while.

A larger pressure tank reduces how often your pump needs to cycle, but if the pump can't keep up then the pressure will just slowly drop off. So if your pump just runs (doesn't cycle on/off) the whole time you have a sprinkler going, then a larger pressure tank is not very useful.

Bypassing the filter and water softener will help for sure, and save you money. No point carbon filtering and softening water for the garden!

Gu10 bulbs are available as smart bulbs. Ikea and hue both have offerings.

I have odd switches in one of my rooms too. I bypassed the switch and stuck a hue remote next to it. Comes with double sided tape for easy mounting. Controls 3 different lights in 3 different fixtures.

Don't do this, crazy idea honestly.

What you SHOULD do (and my professional recommendation) would be;

1. replace the weather stripping, it clearly saw it's best days when the twin towers were still standing.

2. with the door closed, pin some fresh 2x1 to the existing jambs to build them out more, best to do this part with the door closed so you can get a nice tight seal.

3. enjoy a far less draughty door.

Sorry to say, but in my state at least, the only legal way to deal with this is to hire a crew licensed to deal with lead paint removal. You can paint over it, if you want, but you will need to disclose knowing about the lead paint when selling.

Honestly, this is not something you want to be penny-wise-pound-foolish on. Have a remediation crew that knows what it is doing take care of it for you and your family's sake.

Remember that a bunch of very thin coats is better than one big fat coat Use the flex in the widest knife you can to keep it thin. It takes practice, it's not an easy skill until you learn it.

My man, Frigidaire means fridge in french, was I confused lol.

Good luck with the repairs!

Frigidaire dish washers suck.

I replaced my fried main board 3 times at $120 a pop until I dumped it.

The contractor who did the job was a neighbour. He built my double garage 2 or 3 years before and wanted to bring the pad up to the same level as the garage floor. He said that it would stand up better to frost. Canadian prairie winters. The important part was the rebar. He laid the proper amount of rebar and I got the job of tying them together with the wire twisty things with the hooked tool. He was one hell of a contractor.

Agreed on testing this to potentially save some time/labor and fully understand the risks.

His paint is definitely in a state of disrepair and needs repainting. But I don’t see any of the alligator skin peeling that is typical of those white heavily leaded paints.

Cries in 1910 home with tons of deferred maintenance

It didn't arrived yet but according to the product picture I'd figure it's at least 3mm thick. I'm just gonna be careful.

Weatherstrip

You could hire someone to bore the line for you which wouldn't require any backfilling but if you don't want to spend the money keep the trench as narrow as feasible and mix up a sand bedding mix real wet so it flow fills the gap around the pipe and supports your walkway

I don’t see any control boards. It’s a pretty old dryer. There looks to be a block where several wires connect on the side of the motor. It’s hard to get to are there fuses there possibly.

It'll go pretty fast with an electric sander. Use drywall sanding paper -- it looks like a screen with abrasive on it, so it doesn't load up.

Sand everything down more-or-less flat without going through the drywall paper or tape before applying more mud.

You're also going to need a much wider blade to do the tape. It looks like you have a four or five inch blade. You'll need a ten or twelve inch wide blade. Mix your mud a trifle thinner. It's easier to get right if you put on multiple thin coats, sanding flat in between.

The pros can do it in essentially one go, but that takes an amount of practice I don't have.

A real light orange peel texture will do a lot to conceal imperfections.

> I feel that 1-1/4" is overkill for a sprinkler.

Yes, absolutely, but I'd like to be able to hook up multiple sprinklers to the same hose and have them work effectively. I also like the idea of being able to water my garden with a fire hose if I'm short on time. I'm also kind of thinking that if I have the opportunity to make the system overkill for a few extra dollars, why not?

> What hp pump?

3/4 hp

> How deep of a well?

Unfortunately I have no idea.

> How far from the pump to your house?

The pump is in my basement, it's right next to the pressure tank, filters, etc. I'm also hoping the oversized pressure tank will make up for the potential shortcomings of my pump situation.

I've seen 4" recommended for cars and 5" for heavier vehicles. Obviously other factors go into the design and the local construction companies know what works for the area. When you had it done was that the only option or could you have gone thinner?

Make sure the hole is pre-drilled. I would not go into the wood more than 20 mm (3/4").

How thick is the cable duct that you want to install? If it is 2 or 3 mm thick, then I would buy 20 mm screw (which would mean it isn't going into the top more than 17-18 mm)

Way too much mud on first coat and corners sorely need tape. Check out Utube videos and practice on a sample joint. The most common mistake newbies make is they apply too much compound and play with it aiming for perfection the first coat.

Make sure you got at least a 8" spreader when doing mudding on drywall. A smaller one will not give you the gradients you want.

If you got a gap in a seam, you mud the gap, take some tape and fold it in half, press it into the seam then mud over the paper to fill in the gap.

You can sand between applications of mud once it dries. Since youa re new to this, allow this to take place over a couple days. Once you get good with it, you will have next to no sanding to do and do it in a single application.. I always run a 12" spreader and I only need to spot sand.

Your doors don't use a flange design?