Maybe just do a quick top coat, sand, prime and paint?

You might be able to use the 1 1/2" to 2" connected to a 2" x 2 1/2".

Yes, the width of the void you are filling.

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This is the solution I used on 100 year old doors. Worked like a charm.

I see this recommended all the time but no one mentions how all that lead contaminated water ends up running everywhere.

Not going to last, as mentioned by other commenters, but if you just want a fix for a year or two:

Rent a pressure washer, clean off the surface, all the cracks.

Make sure the surface is damp. Mix up a bag of ready to mix concrete, pour it on, level/spread it (screeding) with a 2x4. A large drywall trowel or something similar can be used to get a nicer finish.

About a $15 'fix'. And as the others say, in a couple years it will probably break apart.

I would prime it. Add filler where needed. Lightly sand filler making sure not to sand through the primer. Wearing a respirator while doing so. then paint. And not be to fussy with the finish.

To get a perfect surface without filler added, youd have to sand the old paint smooth. Scraping it will leave it very uneven and painting over it will make it look ugly. Up to you though.

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Duct tape fixes all.

door gets tighter in cold weather

Short term solution: Mount a curtainrod, hang a blanket above the door. You'd be surprised how much putting a little cloth between you and the problem will help while you get a better solution worked out. The blanket disrupts the airflow and slows down the unwanted loss of heat/cooling. It's not a perfect solution but it's better than nothing.

Just replace the seal and see what it looks like. I bet it will seal fine. If it doesnt bend the hinges a little. Theres plenty of videos out there on that.

And drain it better

Replace the trim. I wouldn’t bother with lead-encapsulating primer(Ben Moore’s Insl-X brand makes one but it’s pricey), and sanding it even with a Festool HEPA setup like the pros(expect to drop at least $700 on the vacuum only) isn’t a good idea.

Bronze spring if you want to class it up and never have to do it again.

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That's how I solved it, sure I can't flip a switch to turn them off but I can turn them off in bed.

Okay. I was picturing wall-mounted outlets, not counter-mounted. Sounds like you have it all in hand.

And probably a good bit of draining rock beneat the concrete to limit the damage from freezing soil.

Just to protect the wiring and keep it snug out of the way of the countertop installers. After the new counters are in I will need to cut holes in the counter top where the old outlets were and hook them back up. The outlets are currently assembled as they would be in the wall but hanging outside the wall. I don't know if it's ok or not so I just wanted to get them secured and not have any issues with the cabinet company about it.

I'm not sure why you want to add an additional junction box. Is the outlet not attached to one now?

Exactly that. I just need to get them out of the way for a short period of time. The cabinet company wanted to charge me a lot to have to touch the electrical. The outlets are going right back into the countertop when the new one is laid, in the same place.

I planned to open the drywall, install a junction box onto the stud a few inches down the wall. Cap the wires off, and secure them in the box until the work is done.