Depending on how it's wired it may still work if you interrupt the line with the receiver. But instead of the receiver controlling the lights in the fan itself it would control the separate light fixture.

I can hope they put a decent base down under it, but other areas I've hit clay pretty early unfortunately

That doesn’t look like 1966 NE trim.

The windows don’t look like they’re from 1966 either.

When the previous owners updated the windows, they probably updated the trim.

Do a quick lead spot test to confirm.

That trim looks good. If it’s original 1966 trim, you’d have to get custom trim to fit as all mill work now is smaller/thinner.

Just what I’d do being a New Englander and feeling with a 1910 building and red cedar siding from the 50s.

https://www.offthegridnews.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/well-water-rich-400x324.jpg

Just confirm... you mean disconnect the wires from the outlet, cap the ends of the wire with, say, wire nuts, and then tuck them into the metal box during the renovation process?

That would be fine. It's exactly what the cabinet company installers would do. You're not modifying anything.

What you can't do -- as far as I know it's against code everywhere -- is have a junction box concealed/inaccessible behind anything. For example, if you decided you didn't want one of the outlets anymore, you're not allowed to remove the plug part, cap the wires, and put a cabinet over it.

You could also benefit from putting a storm door on there. Adds an extra layer of protection.

I've got a trenching shovel to keep it narrow from last years drainage project, so I'm hoping to keep it small width. I like the plank idea for tamping, thank you.

The cheapest and easiest is to get smart bulbs. Turn it on with an app or smart speaker, or google home, or siri or alexa etc.

Bathroom faucet is leaking badly from the bottom of it when turned on (dripping down the stopper rod). Not coming from either of the water connections and no visible leaks above the counter.

Is this more likely to be a fix or replace?

https://i.imgur.com/YqRMzyz.jpg

Depending on your soil conditions, you can possibly notch the end of 4" pipe and twist/drill it through under the walk, sucking sand/gravel out with a shop vac.

OK, you are going to have a trench under the walk....keep it as narrow as you can. When you are done try and block off one end with a plank..on the low side. After the plank, backfill the trench to give it support. Then from the open end start filling and tamping with whatever fits. Ram it right against that board you put in. Pack it in...repeat until you get to the top. Then pull the board and backfill.

Also if the trim is old enough to have lead paint, it also likely has some water damage

Correct, it it's a poured sidewalk and a 4" drainage line. Thanks for the reassurance and recommendation.

Heeeeeeyyyyyyy, i have same issue lol

It sounds like you have a poured sidewalk (otherwise you would have just lifted a block). Very likely it's reinforced with rebar and/or steel mesh. That means it'll bridge gaps well.

I'm guessing you're going to put in a 4", maybe 6" pipe to accommodate the downspout outflow. If you keep your excavation close to the width of the pipe, the concrete will bridge that without back filling so that should ease your mind a bit.

But I know where you're coming from... I feel the same way about these kind of projects.

Depending on your access, and how wide the sidewalk is, you could mix a "soupy" batch of Quikcrete and let it free flow in, in layers. If one end is higher than the other, you'd obviously start there and block the other end as the concrete rises.

If that's not possible, poke in as much coarse gravel as you can (jagged stuff, not pebbly). Then run water through with sand to fill up the gaps.

Check the control board for any blown glass fuses if you aren't getting 220VAC (in the US) between both spade connectors on the new coil

Ive used a kerf door set with great success, it just screws into the door trim very subtle and creates a tight seal depending on how you install it just screws in wood easy install

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-Aluminum-Kerfs-Door-Set-in-White-VA38W/204737192

I had to buy 3 different thicknesses of weather stripping because some gaps were way wider than others.
It's a running joke in San Diego - I'm pretty sure all of us commoners can see light through our front door cracks!

Looks like it is the door latch as people are saying but you can also try a diagnostics mode run.

Dishwashers should all have a way to run diagnostics and tell you what is wrong with flashing lights.

https://machinelounge.com/frigidaire-dishwasher-diagnostic-mode/

There is a chance that the diagnostics mode fails though.

This is commonly cause by leaking vents in the attic or crawl space which can easily be repaired.

Paints were transitioning then.

If you want an idea of what replacing just some of the drywall would look like and how to do it, look up "repairing flood cut drywall" on Youtube. That process is exactly what you'd need to do to remove and replace the lower section of drywall.

Thanks. Checked those. It’s an attached double breaker. I did flip them off and back on to double check. No dice.

Shellac is not among the acceptable answers. Skimcoating with drywall mud would work, but it would be very difficult because of paper shreds. As others have said, replace the drywall below the line that was the wainscoting.

Attach a straightedge to the wall to make the cut, so the new/old joint will be easier to match.

True. You would likely want to replace the fan with one that can be remotely controlled (or add a remote control , possible) and then just leave that switch on all the time.