You have to remember that if it's more than 26 seconds, you could be dealing with a butt leak. That test is kinda outdated because of this

Have you tried to reset the breakers? The drum will run with only 120v, but the heating element needs 220v.

That looks to be 2" thick. You should have 4" for cars.

That is not the situation here though. The fan and a completely separate light fixture are on the same switch. OP wants to turn on the fan without turning on the light fixture. There is nothing you can do with the fan to enable keeping the other light fixture off while the fan has power.

If a dumbass like me can do it, then anyone can! 👍👍👍

I've done this and it sucked. Just replace the drywall

Yep, it's a total replacement of the drywall... really it's the easiest and best way to go.

Get rid of the whole thing

In the end, it's going to be way less effort to replace the drywall and the results will be better.

If it is not wired incorrectly then your alternate fixes are to get a remote module for fans. once wired correctly, ( don't ask) you can turn switch on and control light and fan separately. Other option is to get really long pull chains and control them separately with the switches that normally come on ceiling fans.

These schluter guys are smart af

You can also get a fan that has a radio control switch and is wireless. Those are great for these situations if you don’t want smart bulbs.

The problem even with smart bulbs is that if you cut power to the fan, the bulbs will lose power as well and thus disconnect from wifi.

Not sure how fast they reestablish wifi connection if you restore power to the fan and whether they go through some self check each time but this might be annoying as well as smart bulbs aren't designed to be fully powered off each time you turn off the lights.

I'd be sure it isn't actually just wired dumb. Look at what you have in the box for the ceiling fan and for the lights. There may be a way around it. If you haven't cracked the boxes open you can't know for sure.

If smart bulbs don't do it for you, there are devices that install inline with a fan/light combo to control them separately with a remote. It is typically used for cases where a single switch controlled a light and fan combo. The thing (typically) would install in the fan canopy.

I have had the same issue with mine. What I can’t figure out is every time I open it after the wash cycle it is fine, but if my wife opens it the latch disengages and I have to push it back in. I had her hold on to my hand as I opened it once to see if I do it differently somehow, and it broke. So now I am the only one that is allowed to open the dishwasher.

You can get a smart bulbs (plus hub? idk) that have stick-on or in-wall wireless switches that mimic wall switches. Then you could probably open the existing switch box and wire the light to be always "hot" and control with wireless. (If they're in series, that won't work without new wiring.) Hire someone if that seems complicated.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=35557

Dang fat finger.

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Install new winter door. They are good sealed.

It looks like OP got the real answer in other responses. To explain in more detail for others...

What pinstripe suggests isn't easy at all for 99% of people and is the wrong way to do it. Yes you could disassemble your motion sensor, rewire the sensor, modify the external housing and run extra wires to the switch. But why? Depending on your skill level it could look professional or it could look like someone hacked you the electrical box... Not to mention the labor involved and the fact that this custom solution will be very confusing to anyone that does work in the future.

The correct way to do this is purchase a motion sensor with a built in always on feature. As others mentioned you just need to flick the power off/on to get it to stay on. Leave it off for longer you reset it. The switch then has standard wiring instead of a custom solution. If in the future you (or the next owner) wants to replacev the light they can without dealing with a custom switch and wiring related to modifying the sensor box.

My point - the are "off the shelve" solutions to this issue. No need to custom modify the light and sensor to achieve this.

There's a good chance it tripped a water leak switch in the pan that makes up the bottom of the unit. Could be a hose has come loose or has gone leaky.

I've had one where the water pump had started to leak just a smidge, but it has rusted out most of the bottom because it was leaking for a long time and had rusted the motor bearings too.

TL;DR: check the inside for water too.

Yeah, exactly.

When the switches are in the "off" position, then the bulbs will only ever be off because they have no power. The OP can still have the lights off with the fan on, but cannot have the lights on with the fan off. Maybe that's fine for OP though?

I'd pull open both wall switches to see what the wiring looks like. Maybe they do have independent wires but were linked together or something weird.

I would add that over time as the window is opened and closed lead dust can build up on the sills and baseboards as it is worn down through use.

When I was with early intervention we recommended peopke wash sills and baseboards with a cleaning solution high in phosphates, such as Spic N Span or automatic dishwasher powdered soap. You mix ¼ cup to 1 gallon warm water, and wear rubber gloves while cleaning. Wipe surfaces with the phosphate solution, then rinse with clean water. Change water in buckets for each room or as necessary, and pour water down toilet.

A combination of both those things + age, I think. The tree has since been removed. Looking like replacement might be the way to go, but $$$....Thanks for the reply.