Thank you and yes, in north Texas, we get a few freezes a year.

Sorry to be that guy, but I am sure you mean 14/3. 14/2 is how this guy got stuck asking us for help in the first place. :)

Have you looked inside the boxes for both switches at the wiring? No way to know if there’s an easier answer without investigating the wiring

Did find that tucked inside, good spot for it!

I have a similar and am rubbing Phillips hue smart bulbs and switch.

The switch is great. I stuck it on the wall next to existing switches.

I just had this very same issue!!

You’ll need to run new electrical wire from your ceiling fan down to an switch. It needs its own wire separate from the lights.

In the light switch gang box there will be a line from the house. You can to tap into that for power and add a new switch and a dual gang box. This is all pretty easy to do. Watch a few YouTube videos to familiarize yourself with the process.

I can turn my lights and fan on and off independently using the pull chain on each.

Man, I'd replace the WHOLE THING not just this third. You'll be much happier with it.
Also, why did it fail like this? Tree roots? Bad drainage?

Had the same problem. I ended up getting a remote fan and mounting the remote next to the switch. Make sure you get a remote fan that doesn't "click".

If you intend to buy Philips Hue bulbs, you'll need to change a buried setting in the app, otherwise by default they'll come on whenever they get power, i.e. whenever you turn on your fan.

If you're buying some other brand, check that they have this feature. It might be that they turn on by default as soon as they get power, and there's nothing you can do about it.

Of course, if you're literally leaving the fan on permanently, this is less of an issue. Naturally this also means your solution gives you no way to have the lights on without the fan, if that bothers you.

Yeah, I've seen. I've got led lamps with built in daylight and motion sensors, rather cheap. I don't need them to stay on for longer periods so I just left it as is.

Here is a pamphlet that might help. While lead is dangerous with prolonged exposure common sense precautions as outlined in this pamphlet will give you the maximum protection. A one time project with proper percautions well executed is very doable. I would take it seriously, but do not be paralyzed by it. This is DEFINITELY a DIY project that you can tackle.

Good luck

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• Don't make lead dust
• Don't inhale lead dust if you make it
• Small kids and pregnant women should not go around licking all the paint.
• Wear gloves and a respirator
• Collect all the loose paint chips dispose of properly.

In that case, while you're poking around up there you should also check that the ceiling electrical box that they mounted it on is rated for fan use. It needs to be either drilled into a ceiling stud, or bracketed between two ceiling studs with a metal bar, and if it was originally a light then the builder probably wouldn't have bothered to secure it super well. If its the wrong type of mount then your fan could fall at any time.

Clap on, clap off?

Does the fan have a battery powered remote that controls lights/ fan separately? If not, look up the model and see if you can order one. If the model is remote capable, you can either use your existing one or pair a new one, and then use a Bond Smart Bridge to mimic that dumb remote's signal and network it into your smart home network. Works great for two ceiling fans in my home.

If your fan model is not remote capable then pull the switch off the wall (after cutting power at your breaker box) and see if there's an unused red wire in there. That's what's usually used to control the fan, while black is for the light. Whoever vaulted the ceiling may have just connected both to the black wire at the fan and not bothered with separate switches on the wall, and hopefully there's an unused red sitting there waiting for you. If it's not there then its a hassle to run one for someone who's inexperienced, so at that point I would just replace the fan with a smart one or use the remote method discussed above.

Yeah if you want to play basketball on it, replacement is your only real option

Check out a couple of the other responses in this thread. It sounds like you can override that in some models.

Repairclinic.com

I had the same issue and this is what I did to fix it. Was going to be $400 to get a new wire ran without the drywall work. I ended up just getting a nicer big fan/light for $150 and replacing it myself.

Any reasonable temperature where wax is still wax instead of vapor will not negatively impact mica powder.

I know it's not your question, but you shouldn't use it in candles with wicks because the powder will end up clogging the wick, which negatively impacts performance.

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Maybe heat it with a heat gun. It will bubble off with no dust. Or replace the trim

Hi, I'm trying to mount a tv to a gazebo. The tv will weigh about 20 pounds and is about 42". I don't want to weaken the roof beams or drill too many holes. Any ideas for hardware or wood placement for this project? Here are some photos. I was thinking of some kind of coated garage utility/bike hook that would hang on the post, but I can't find a simple small hook with the proper bending. Also I thought about galvanized flat straps (looks like metal tape), but I would have to loosen the roof bolts and that is a pain to readjust with the rubber grommets in the channels if they slip down I would have to take the whole roof off to fix them. I thought about toggle bolts but the smallest ones that would fit in that hollow vertical bar that are an inch long and people say don't trust them with anything heavy...

Mockup drawing: https://ibb.co/L995CSn

Tv Stand: https://a.co/d/4ijkOgs

More gazebo photos: https://ibb.co/jGSNKxJ

https://ibb.co/PQvsghn

https://ibb.co/ysfBD9P

https://ibb.co/wsZ87CM

https://ibb.co/S3vLS5Q

SOME latex paints are ok over alkyd(oil). Typically higher end, 100% acrylic latex paints are recommended. SOME latex primers are available for oil to latex conversion also. Not all primers will do this

I've been wet-scraping "some" lead-painted wood on my house. It is a time consuming process, but yields the best results. There are a variety of profiles of carbide scraper that you will need.

Basically, I set up a catch system, spray the board to be scraped repeatedly during the process to minimize dust, and scrape away. Once its scraped you can easily sand and fill any imperfections, and often end up with a finish that is better than the original.