I was going to suggest a grinder with diamond blade too just wear a decent mask, that dust is terrible for you.

You can get a kit for it, or you can just grab some bondo and car paint from Napa.

Smart bulbs def the way to go. I can turn mine on/off from anywhere w my phone as long as the switch is on. Def not worth the hassle of rewiring shit.

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I'm not sure how they fix it, but the test we always used to use is if you fart in the middle of your living room, how long does it take to stop smelling of fart? If time-to-dispersion is less than 26 seconds of butt gas smell time, you've got yourself a leak.

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Usually adjust some dampers. In extreme cases they may need to resize a duct or add dampers to existing ducts. Basically they’re measuring how much air is getting sucked into your HVAC unit and how much air is getting pushed out of each register and try to make those numbers the same.

I had this problem and an electrician ran a separate line for the fan. Just fished it through.

Try posting at https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/ he is good. Free help but I generally leave a nice donation as they have saved my ass several times.

On most motion detectors, you can flip the switch on and off rapidly to override the motion detector function. You'll have to check the owners manual.

The door will definitely expand a bit in the heat, but you've got plenty of room there. Try it with cardboard and only do one shim at a time and it shouldn't take you any more than 10 minutes. If it gets warm and it's too much, take out some of the cardboard one at a time.

Many motion detector lights have a feature where you can flick the switch off, then on very quickly, and that will deactivate the motion detection feature and give you constant on.

I see that you have already gotten some good answers. As to why this was done, assuming one was installed after the other and they just tapped into whatever wire they could find. It was lazy and unfortunate.

Is there no remote control for the fan? That seems odd.

If there is a remote, you're golden: leave the switch on all the time, replace the bulbs with smart bulbs, and buy a smart radio controller for the fan.

Yeah. They have different thicknesses so if it's too thin then it won't solve your problem. If it's too thick you'll have to lay in the door to get it shut. It's a 1 star difficulty level so don't sweat it

Damn that’s a gorgeous shower. Bench looks great!

From the OP description, I suspect the fan was added at a later time by a previous owner, replacing one light in a switched set. If that's the case there probably wouldn't be a split, correct?

This type of spring loaded weather stripping around the frame on the outside (so that the door pushes up against it) will go a long way towards reducing the drafts:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-1-5-in-x-84-in-Tall-White-Spring-Loaded-Door-Set-Weatherstrip-for-Entry-Doors-VAS82WH/315595908

That was my first thought, but on re-reading the fan and light are completely separate fixtures. I think what you're describing is intended to control the fan and lights in a single fixture.

Gap width meaning distance from the face of the door to the frame?

It's a door latch malfunction.

I think this is probably what I’ll need to do. Should I wait for it to warm up a bit? Still cold outside and wasn’t sure if the door moves/grows with temp changes.

This is interesting. What do they do to fix that?

Were people painting walls with oil based paint in the 80s?

It doesn’t require a new box, just a dual switch. But it’s true no one wants to run the wiring. It’s obnoxious how hard it is to actually find a fan now that’s meant for standard 3-wire setups.