Yeah I would be calling them back to fix that.

Could be a climate thing then or doesn't have constant water contact. But teak isn't completely waterproof, and will get eventually get moldy if soap scum is left on. I just spray mine down with the wand if soap gets on it. If it constantly has water hitting it, the natural oil and wax can dry out, so that's why they sell the oil to rub it down with, to replenish it I guess.

The most correct answer is to run 3-wire from the switch to the fan, or at least check and see if you already have 3-wire and it was just tied together.

If you only h ave 2-wire going to the fan, there should be enough room in the canopy for a controller module.

You should look into a remote-controlled or smart fan controllers, they sell some that have an in-canopy module with separate controlled outputs for lights and fan speed.

Non-smart radio frequency Hunter brand remote controller

Example smart controller Another example smart controller

There is also a device that I have personally been waiting to buy but will seemingly never get back in stock, the Innovelli smart controller

You can also use the OEM remote controller such as the Hunter above with the Bond device that adds smart control to your RF fan controllers

One other option is to use Shelly smart relays inside the fan canopy connected to the lights and the fan motor, this will work if the canopy is not sized to fit a full sized fan controller inside.

I would not recommend trying to encapsulate failing paint. The areas that aren't peeling yet probably aren't far behind. I would definitely look into the cost of just replacing the trim. You'll still need to take precautions to prevent environmental contamination when removing the trim instead of stripping, but it will be much less of a headache. Remember that the hazards of lead paint removal go far beyond your own personal safety during the removal. You do not want this stuff in your yard. It's not something that just goes away after a few rainstorms. It stays there and can potentially make the yard unsafe for gardening or recreation.

Thanks so much for the very clear and thorough explanation.

I’ve never done that in 9+ years. It just sits in there & it’s fine. 🤷‍♀️

No. I don’t rinse it or anything. I completely ignore it.

Teak, for whatever reason, is ideal for wet environments. I literally bought it put it in my shower 9+ years ago and that’s all.

I don’t leave items on it bc that pools the water & keeps it from running off & that will leave dark watermarks on the wood. So if nothing’s left on it the water evaporates evenly or runs off & it dries and stays nice looking.

I'm no pro, but that's not how that's supposed to be is it?

I believe you can run a bead of caulk around a toilet base but grout or cement is a no no since if you have to pull the toilet to swap out the wax seal it's going to be a shit show.

Install a two channel relay wherever the feed to the light/fan splits to both devices. Look into the UL listed Shelly brand relays that can be wired in device junction boxes. You would wire the physical switch to the switch input on the channel you want to turn on/off (eg fan). The other switch input on the relay can be controlled via the shelly app and uses Wi-Fi (no hub required). Might confuse the next home owner but does what you need.

If you need help understanding the wiring, I can send you a little diagram.

You can do a tile floating bench

There’s a huge number of different options, this isn’t the only solution. If you look for ‘Home Assistant’ videos on YouTube, you’ll get an idea of the sort of components that are out there and how easy they are to install.

The simplest solution would be to add a light bulb type pull chain. It should be available at any hardware store or home improvement center. The switch screws into light fixture as a bulb 💡 would & the bulb into the switch. Add long enough chain or cord to make it easy to reach.

With only one power line in. The easiest way is to buy a universal remote . you will be able to turn on & off both. They run About 30-50 bucks and of course some wiring at the fan support box

Have you had it tested by a professional? Do it and you may be surprised. The dangers of lead paint were well known by 1950, and although not outlawed until 1978, many people stopped using it.

Source - my company installs 3K windows per year, and we test every house built pre-1978 per EPA regulations. I am very surprised at the amount of homes built before even 1950 that come back negative. You have a 97% chance of being lead paint negative if built after 1970, and odds still heavily in your favor if built in the 60s. It’s a coin flip in the 50s, odds not in your favor in the 40s, and pre-1940, forgetaboutit - it has lead.

I can’t say what a professional charges in your area, but the company we use charges $325 to test all windows and $400 to do the entire house.

Have a shop fab you a bench and two legs out of stone or marble, and notch the tile so that it slots in. The tile alone will secure it as it will be sitting recessed into the tile, but you can install the two legs flush against the tile on the walls at each corner if youre concerned about support failure.

"early 20's"...yeah, me too...totally stopped then.

I've also used these in this situation. They work well.

Not an Electrician but I think you can replace the 14/2 with a 14/3 and change out to a two gang box with two switches. That's what I did to our bath fan light combo. I put the fan on its own timer switch.

Lead presents an inhalation risk and an ingestion risk, but not a contact risk.

So long as you're not breathing it in (wear a properly-fitted N-100 or P-100 respirator), and are not ingesting it ( remove your clothes BEFORE you enter the home, thoroughly wash yourself and your hands off when you're done), you'll be fine.

There is definitely something to be said for releasing it to the environment, though, which should absolutely be avoided.

Personally, I'd rip off the casings and replace them completely, so as to avoid releasing all those flakes to the environment. But if not, then yes, a combination of scraping, and a sticky encapsulating paint is the way to go.

Yea, you really don’t want to sand lead-based paint.

If you scrape the old paint it must be caught in a drop cloth and disposed of as hazardous waste. Otherwise it contaminates the top soil. Don’t use a heat gun to loosen it — you will get a kind of lead-infused gas.

If you can encapsulate it, you should be okay although some might say you are just postponing the inevitable need for removal.

Best is to replace the trim if possible.

Note that the fine black dust on the window sill (where the bottom sash is seated when closed) may be lead contaminated too.

Use gloves and seriously keep any children well away from the whole project. It doesn’t take much to poison a child and the effects can be permanent.

Thanks! I'll have to look into this a bit more.

I think you hit the nail on the head. Assuming this wasn't originally a fan, but just another light.

sharpie

But YOU understand me. Thanks for the feedback. I actually found some smart bulbs, so this is the easy "fix."

I am a non-discriminatory accuser. Doesn't matter who it is. Contractor, homeowner, "a buddy who....", none are immune in my eyes. If you're gonna do something, do it at least 3/4 assed. Not running that second 14/2 is 1/16th assed at best.