I think the fan was wired this way because the installer didn’t want to have to run a new switch line

You can get smart switches as well as smart bulbs. You swap the cables from the light straight into a little box (Or split them into two individual boxes), then you have a number of switch lines that can go to whatever you want. The advantage of this is that you stand a good chance of tucking all of this away in the ceiling, without having to do any major re-wiring. Replace the old switch with a smart switch and you can control things as you please. The components aren’t expensive. $50 job.

My point is this is anecdotal. There's nothing inherently wrong with using water-based paints over oil-based ones. If you do the work properly, and apply the principles of good painting prep, it works just fine.

The old carbide blade will work. The 4 T ones for cement board last monger, but are just as miserable to run. I switched over to Hardiboard, and bought a set of drill-powered snips for the last couple of jobs: gamechanger!

Hey man, no need to get personal.

I'm planning on moving those tools to the basement as soon as there's enough of them to make it worth the trip.

Not understanding your comment. My mother had latex paint on top of oil paint, and the latex paint peeled off. I would not recommend that anyone do this.

I've battled this in our house every room I remodel. The original oil based primer coat has deteriorated and if you disturb the paint at all, like update molding or strip and repaint baseboard radiators, it chips off all the way to the primer layer. Some rooms have 6-7 layers of paint. My house was built in 56 and I've tested for lead every room in the house, no lead. But the issue makes it easy to scrap off all the paint, sort of. Then I clean, skim coat, sand, clean and apply a new coat of primer before repainting with color. I usually screw down the drywall too and spackle those holes, since I've had a lot of nails pop. It's a huge PITA, but the results are worth it I think. The walls look way better without the orange peel texture of 6 layers of paint and I don't have the chipping and nail popping problem.

TLDR strip walls, fix defects, sand prime paint

Bath & Kitchen Caulk Tape. Simple quick fix. No skill required.

Does heat affect mica powder in wax? Could I mix it with sealing wax to make different Color wax seals or would that mess it up?

>little grout saw tool

Thanks, new to me - will go search one out

This is what we have in our shower. A corner teak bench.

Yes I just assumed, but found some in a search! Oops. Yea, not worth my trouble to try to fis this wiring 30 ft in the air.

Are you describing GU10 light bulbs? They make GU10 smart light bulbs.

I suspect they only ran one hot wire from the switch to the fan/light.

That 'lazy p.o.s.' was probably the previous homeowner. They probably didn't have the know how or the determination to add a switch & run wire.

If installing a fan in an older home, 'two switches' requires installing a new box in the wall (for room for the second switch) & then running another wire from the switchbox to the fan (so as to have control over both fan & light independently). Most homeowner don't want o do this, so they hook it up like you see & then use the pull chains.

There’s a little grout saw tool that you could get and sit there and file it all down and then recaulk it neatly.

Yes. But every house I've ever owned, the master bedroom has them wired to two separate switches, and then every other fan in the house has them wired to the same switch. I've never understood this, like how much harder could it possibly be to do them all to two switches?

It seems like your choices are either replace the light fixture with one that you can put smart bulbs in or pay an electrician to run some new wiring.

A lot of these answers don't seem to understand your question.

Idea:

Put it in the open position as far as it'll go. Clamp it for now so it can't move while you're messing with it. Drill a hole in the corner of the top triangle thing and the moveable leg (same hole -- lower left hand corner in your picture). Run a bolt through the hole you just drilled. Either use a nut (for more difficult removal) or a wingnut (for easier removal) to hold the bolt in place.

Now the leg can't move and the holes should line up every time you open it.

and placing children who otherwise just have a face full of water

re: the flooring. I was planning on installing over top the floor but then cutting the LVP along the sides sole plate. that way I wont need to buy a 16ft pressure treated 2x4.

Why can’t you build with CMU and then red guard that? Or/and with hardy board. 🤷🏼‍♂️

Frame it in now. I just did a shower and did all the water proofing and then the bench. I used Kerdi membrane over backer board so the order of operations didn’t matter. You should be able to do the same thing here. Frame it, backer board over it, then water proof.

Here is a link to the final product. Final product

Edit again: Progress photos

You could look into Hydro Ban board to build it with. You'd frame behind the board and caulk it to be waterproof before you tile. It's a good bit cheaper than kerdi and easier to install.

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Isn't there two switches on the fan itself? Pull chains typically. One turns the lights on/off, the other sets the fan speed & on/off.