This picture of the finished shower with bench looks like it was taken in my house. We used concrete cinder blocks for our bench at the point where you are in the build, can confirm, it's a place for bottles.

But when they look at the plans and see bathroom where it once said walk in closet, they can and will say, I need to see the pipes…. Even if it means cutting a finished wall.

My technique was to score with one or two passes (was also generally using a shitty blade), and then set the scored sheet over a thin scrap of wood or another piece of cement board or something and the to just use body weight and apply force with my feet by standing over/on it and it will cleanly snap across the scored line that is aligned on the thin wood beneath. Seemed like the lazy way out, but it worked for what I was doing!

Built in benches are out. A lot of people don’t like them. A small removable bench, like a teak stool is a better option.

There's no way to inspect the placement of the shower liner...

Not if you rinse it regularly and put a new coat of teak oil on if it starts to go dull.

I love my teak bench. Came here to say this. Much nicer than anything built in, in my opinion.

As kitwashere suggested, did you remove the edge plate and look for 1 or 2 small holes just to one side or both sides of the bolt (the holes would be covered by that plate)? The hole(s), if there, would be very small and hard to notice unless you knew to look for anything there. I think a small hex driver (perhaps ~.063", .078", 2mm...) is typically used to back out the setscrew(s).

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You would need to know how they are wired, most likely someone goofed the wiring. You will have to follow the wires and see where they split since they should be wired parallel.

The switches are most likely located before the split, removing the switches and putting them on the seperate splits should allow you to turn the ceiling fan and light fixture on and off individually.

Your rubber pan liner will create the issues. Schluter products are literally designed for this stuff. Rubber pan liner are outdated. I'm a pro tile setter. We haven't used rubber pans in almost 10 years. There are so many better modern methods of waterproofing.

Good luck though 👍🏻

Remove that plate and underneath it you will find the set screw

You might be able to use this device

About this item

This kit converts regular ceiling fan into a remote controllable one.

This remote control is designed to separately control your ceiling fan speed and light.

The screen displays HI, MED, LOW, OFF modes to control the fan speed and off.

It has both fan and light timer button to program the fan and light.

The thermostatic button on the transmitter will automatically set fan when pressed

The first step is finding the lazy piece of s**t that only ran one line from the wall box to the ceiling box. Step two is beating them with a bat until they don't do it again.

You'll need to run a second line from the wall box to the ceiling to have seperate light and fan power. That is, if your fan supports it. Most do.

They cut a chunk of stud out of the wall to run piping through, and then hammered a piece of aluminum to reinforce the stud in the area where it had been compromised.

Like this

https://images.app.goo.gl/euRTB6nb5CdsL5sM7

So that's why you can drill above and below it.

That’s going to depend on your fan make and model. Some fans don’t have separate wiring for the light and fan, others do. IF your fan fixture has independent wiring, then you’ll need to run another power line to the fixture and add a new switch for that power line at the location of your choice. The difficult part will be running a new power line to the fixture without tearing up the drywall.

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Go to Office Depot or staples. Also, I know there are a lot of folks who print stickers and decals on Etsy. You could see if you can find someone to do it there.

That siding is made to look like tongue and groove boards. It has grooves down the face which give the appearance of individual boards. The 1x8 in the description means that the grooves are placed where the grooves would be if you were using actual 1x8 boards. If it were 1x6, the grooves would be closer together to look like 1x6 boards. This part is purely aesthetic. If you want a different looking style of siding, do it.

The sheet is 4' wide x 8' long and 1/2" is the thickness of the sheet. The 4' x 8' is the most important spec. Those plans call for 350 ft^2 . Each sheet is 32 ft^2 , so you will need 11 sheets minimum (mistakes, and the way the cuts lay out on the sheet might add to that total). The extra 1/8" in thickness shouldn't make a big difference. It will add some weight, that's all.

Just a bit of gravel so there can't be any exposed water at the surface. The other option i've seen is a small 'hill' of concrete at the very top to shed the water.

I used a jigsaw. I wet down the cut to help reduce the dust and wore a mask. I had to buy a better jigsaw than the one I had, but the accuracy of the cuts and speed made it well worth it.

Best reply I’ve read all year😂😂😂

…dont you have two small needle valves in the shower valve body that can isolate hot/cold supply to your cartridge?

I'm not a professional, but I was taught by one and have helped do the work on every home we've repaired/redid for 52 years. @DeVonSwi is right. Plywood instead of particleboard is definitely the way to go on flooring. I've seen particleboard fall apart far, far more often than plywood. Shimming is also the way pros used to level things. Cardboard shims disintegrate faster than wood.