I love my teak bench. Wife moves it to one side to shave, I love it to another side to sit and clean my feet. From bed bath and beyond for less than 200$.

It's less than good practice to drain gutters into a French drain. The downspouts should be connected to a "tight line" system - 4" solid pcv drain pipe that is diverted to as far away from the house as possible. Maybe a retention pit or an infiltration trench or a stormwater pond. Water from your roof should be allowed to percolate back into the local watertable. It's just that you want to keep it out of your basement.

You could try and find where your roof drains ultimately terminate... if there is even a tight line system, so yes start where the downspouts go into the ground. To find the outflow look to the low point of your property. Look for a pipe sticking out of the ground in low areas of your property, if you're near a road side ditch the drain lines could drain there although many jurisdictions prohibit this practice.

If you're concerned that there is no drain system beyond the downspouts dumping water right against your foundation, turn on YouTube and find a how to video.

The ground can be saturated without being squishy, it depends on your soil, sandy, loam, clay etc. they all have different saturation and retention capacities.

If you dig a hole, like a post hole, cover it and it fills up every time it rains then you have a good gauge of your water table. Don't rule it out. I'm sure the mines near you are filled with water.

Good luck with this. Be patient, be observant and you will solve this problem.

You can use acetone as well, as the effect is stronger. It will begin to neutralize the plasticizers found in latex paint, but will leave alkyd paints intact. Running acetone over the surface of a latex paint will cause it to develop a tacky texture that prevents sliding your fingers over it smoothly, always use non-plasticine gloves for a touch test

I would not do deck blocks…I would do a 24”x24x18” footing with a Simpson post base….and a couple of #4 bars horiz. And a bent one going from horiz to vert in center … I would also do a sono tube -8” above grade , burying posts is a bad idea even if ptdf…I build in Ca so frost not an issue, wood has no business sub grade, and deck blocks unless set in a footing are shit. I have built many decks this way, no issues.

I did the exact same thing. I really didn't want to cut out tile and re-do everything and I was able to get to the plumbing from the floor below so I flipped the hot and cold feeds.

For long-term adhesion one should use an orbital sander on the oil paint, then wash the surface with a TSP solution, and then use a latex paint primer. Only after these steps are taken should you apply two coats of latex paint. It’s a pain in the ass that uses more materials, but it can be done. It’s about the same amount of work as just stripping and repainting with latex from the wall up

Someone applied Latex paint over oil paint.

Latex paint typically will not stick well.to oil paint. If you paint Latex over oil, it will peal off. It can be done, but there is a process. Definitely requires a prep and then applying a coat of fresh start primer on top of the oil paint and then Latex on top of that..

https://steelespaint.com/benjamin-moore/benjamin-moore-primer/fresh-start-multi-purpose-oil-based-primer/

I rented an auger and it destroyed me and my friend's backs. Deadlifting a 75 pound machine with 150 pounds of soil clinging to it 4 feet straight up out of a hole is not easy. The auger is certainly faster. . . but it sure as hell isn't easy.

Tile contractor here. It please stop and start over, you will regret it if you don’t.

You have this set up for a traditional “water in water out” system. 3 piece clamping drain and rubber bladder. First you need to pre slope your pan. Meaning you need to use dry pack mortar to form a shower pan under your bladder first, than put in your shower bladder, souround the drains weep holes in pea gravel, than use again dry pack mortar to build your shower pan. Concrete had no place in a shower for a lot of reasons.

You could go the more modern and simplistic route with a topical membrane shower system. Please Google “wedi” or or “Schluter” shower systems.

Currently your asking for mold and water damage issues

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Yeah stopped as soon as I was through the drywall, only need to thread a snap toggle through. Just find it odd that the pilot hole above went into empty space. Anyways seems like the consensus is to mount somewhere else on the wall.

Get a small piece of cotton fabric in a contrasting color fabric. Wet fabric with rubbing alcohol and rub the paint . If the fabric picks up the wall color, it is latex paint.

Not trying to drill into the stud and the pilot hole above goes into empty space

The pilot hole above went into empty space behind the sheet rock

Scrape or sand or https://www.wagnerspraytech.com/products/surface-prep-tools/paint-eater/

If it’s 1981 you’re probably good and it’s actually pretty evident whether it’s lead by cracking patterns (I’ve done a lot of abatement projects).

That being said, trust but verify and always check places like basements, etc.

Cheaper to get it done whilst you have your contractor there already

OSB is for subfloor and MDF is for underlayment. If you can't get 5/8" MDF, then consider getting 1/2" MDF + 1/8" hardboard. You can use OSB but I would personally go sanded plywood. Same thickness and shim it up using chipboard or similar so that its at the same height.

While the 5% difference is barely noticeable, for LVP and similar flooring options, it will be a pain to install and will crack over time.

Just came to say I did the EXACT same thing (moen and all)!

I know the right answer is to flip it upside down, but I’m too lazy to shut off my main water valve to the house just to do that project. Alas, one day.

Good idea

> I hated it. It was constantly covered in bottles. It was uncomfortable to sit on because if you didn't spray water on it for 5 minutes it was freezing cold. It took up space that I was constantly reminded I might have wanted to stand in. It accumulated more shower "grime" than the rest of the shower even though it was properly sloped. It was wide enough for two people, which was great for all the times you showered alone, or all the times when you did shower with a partner and wanted the extra room to stand in. Fucking stupid idea.

I thought shower benches were cool until I rented a house that had a brand new master bedroom and bathroom, and the bathroom had a really nice shower - subway tile, granite trim, that pretty blue glass decoration, AND A BIG GRANITE BENCH.

Made the shower feel smaller, and as you mentioned, would get gross really fast and was way way way too cold to actually sit on.

This was also how I learned I don't think I ever want a shower with a swinging door ever again. The rubber trim on the bottom messes up really easily and even when it does work, the door will dump water all over the floor every time you open it. Sliding doors don't look as cool and the rails are really annoying, but man I will take a sliding shower door any day.

I design and build showers for a living. I highly recommend a teak shower bench. A built in steals room from your shower and doesn’t add much sitting area. It’s also a challenge to clean with big movements like you would use if you were just washing a wall. Also, the concrete is already poured and there’s no way to waterproof it integrally unless you want to cover it all over with tile.

It's almost certainly one of these.

They're meant to protect wiring runs from drills like yours.

It should work. Score and snap is fine for Durock and other similar gray mesh-backed cement boards, but doesn't work that great with Hardie Backer and its clones. You'll trash your blade, but it should cut. Might be bad for the saw itself, but a few cuts shouldn't kill it.

I use an angle grinder with a diamond wheel for this kind of thing if I'm being serious about it. You can also use a jab saw, like for sheet rock, on Durock, but not Hardie Backer.

My contractor cut a triangular marble piece from countertop scrap for the seat. He started installing the tile on the shower walls from bottom up. At bench height he installed the slab seat on top of the edge of the wall tiles in the corner and then just kept tiling up the wall. 10 years later it’s still solid and no cracks. It only sits on the top edge of the tiles but that’s enough to support it.

Put a sign in the shower that says hot<=>cold.