Small wooden stool you can move under the shower if you’re cutting nails etc. does anyone actually ever sit on a clammy cold ledge???

Nah, I never regretted the floor, and like someone else replied it was no more difficult to clean than a tile floor, maybe with a bit more grout to deal with since the spacing was irregular. The real key was keeping it sealed, there was a noticeable difference in how quickly it would begin to get dingy between cleanings when the sealing was wearing off.

All the more reason to hate the bench though, it broke up what should have been a great wall to wall shower floor and was the only thing that kept the shower from being perfect.

Firstly, are the affected walls external to the dwelling?

Secondly, if the affected walls are external, are they a) stone, b) damp?

Plaster/drywall makes no difference as it’s hydroscopic.

The damp in this case, inhibits the paint’s ability to adhere.

Personally, I wouldn’t paint these kinda walls, I’d figure out a different use/approach.

It's either a water pipe, an electrical conduit, or a wiring protector plate. In any case, stop drilling and work around it.

Thanks for the reply. Just wondering.

If it were me I’d just hire someone to pour a patio slab. Way lower maintenance than a wood deck and probably cheaper than a composite deck. Just my 2 cents. I hired my 2nd floor deck done so I can’t really comment on your specific question.

I mean, you can do it, but boy is that miserable. At some point, the blade just got so dull it wouldn't cut, and just friction-heated the board and blade.

I was pretty fucking shocked to see just how quickly your shitty blade became completely useless, though.

Was the pilot hole directly above that you said was clear into wood behind the sheet rock? If so then your metal is most likely a plate to protect wiring or piping.

Old school red bricks and scrap/mortar fill

Remove the faceplate on the edge of the door (at the bolt). On one or both sides of the bolt, look for a small hole. If present, there may be setscrews in those holes that I believe engage the slot you mentioned. If so, back out the setscrew(s) and then the cylinder should unscrew from the internal lock body. Good luck!

Thank you! We just got a HF in our town so that will be convenient. I'll be close to a farm field that is higher than my property. It makes me think that instead of first thaw, wait a little more into spring to avoid possible water issues.

4 feet should be good for all but the very north of Wiscowsin. I built a shed the same way, gravel with concrete over.

If it's too wet the holes will have water in them. That will be a problem. I had to move all my poles over 3 feet after drilling about 10 of them and letting them sit overnight. The next morning we were screwed. Even tried pumping the water out. They just refilled.

Don't just auger your holes down. Let the auger fill with dirt. pull it out and dump it off to the side. Otherwise the dirt will be nothing but in the way when you set your poles.

The Harbor Freight cement mixer was good enough for the 25 holes I filled. I still use it from time to time. I did have to blow the motor out with air to getting going again once.

You can do exactly what you’re asking. It will throw a few sparks so try not to work over flammable materials.

Get a magnet, use it to find the drywall screws in your studs. Studs found.

Latex paints work fine over oil-based paints, as water-based coatings work just fine over oil-based ones once they are fully cured.

If the existing coating happens to be very glossy, there can be adhesion problems, but oil-based does not inherently imply glossy.

No absolutely not. If you don’t know what it is, stop drilling now. If it’s a water pipe it ends in disaster. It could be an metal plate covering electrical wire. It could be…….. without knowing we don’t know. Stop drilling.

There's a few different causes for this problem -- the most common is walls that are oily because of an air-based oil, like is often found in a kitchen, or because they put paint directly over a very smooth, very glossy finish with no prep. If it's across the WHOLE HOUSE, though, in multiple rooms, then these reasons don't really apply, and I suspect there was a systemic problem -- the painters let the paint freeze or expire, there was something like ceiling popcorn removal done throughout the house which coated the walls in drywall dust that wasn't removed, etc.

In any case, unfortunately, you have to remove all of the loose paint. I don't even know how that would be doable without tremendous cost, but if you just bought the place, it's something you can claim from the sellers as a deficiency.

The ceiling and floor do more to carry the load in a stud wall than the sides do. You can use large toggle bolts into the existing drywall for your top and sides and likely be OK. Use construction adhesive and either concrete anchors or power-driven fasteners to attach the bottom plate to the floor.

If that's a floating laminate or LVP floor in your pic you'll want to take it up in the place where the bottom plate goes so that it attaches directly to concrete and you aren't trapping the flooring down.

Note that if you plan to build the wall laying down on the floor and tilt it up into place, odds are it won't fit because the tilting-up creates a triangle as it rises due to the thickness of the lumber that makes the wall taller than the ceiling as it comes up. Make your wall a hair more than 1.5" shorter and use a double top plate. This also makes the toggle bolt method easier because then you can worry about fastening just the first top plate directly to the ceiling by itself, then slip the built wall in underneath it and nail to the top plate. Use shims to make it tight.

Also double check your height along the entire wall. Never assume a basement floor is flat or level.

It’s actually pretty funny. You could keep doing it and it will keep growing larger and larger. Report back when it gains sentience

Benches are the biggest source of leaks. Be glad you forgot.

Just get a nice separate shower seat that sits in the shower. You'll have so many less worries about leaking and mold as the years go by.

No special blade for cement boards needed, just run the blade a bunch of times.

You can use the saw, but it may make a rough cut if it's dull and may vibrate which may not give you straight cut. The saw could get damaged as well, it is not designed to shed the cement dust which can get drawn into motor. Just a few cuts probably won't do any real damage.

I'd just score it a bunch of times with knife.

I've built 2 different decks on blocks at 2 different houses. No issues whatsoever.

I did a big long wrap around step on 2 sides, and trimmed the 3rd side out with boards. No lattice. No wind getting up underneath whatsoever.

If code allows it, I say go for it.

Makes sense, lol

Get rid of the old paint first