What you did is perfect. No need to remove it all the way

Can you get away with only opening up the side? Maybe. Maybe a kid will bump the wall and crack open the top inside corner joint that is not well supported.

Your best bet would be to do it right and add blocking on the sides and ceiling. Do it right the first time and you don't have to second guess it later.

Frame in a bench and waterproof it's exterior with something like prova board, use something like prova joint to waterproof the seams. No water should get to the framing wood. If you are worried water will get past the waterproofing you can always use pressure treated wood for the framing.

Yes, the height difference will make a difference. Definitely fix that before you lay the finished floor or you'll feel it every time you step on it. But it's easy to fix. Just use some strips of heavy paper or thin cardboard on top of the joists and then screw down the OSB on top of them. As many layers as necessary to make up the difference.

Until you give the fire air it will be a smokey pit. (experience) I think the drilling of holes could be a solution. 3/4 diameter may be better. Was the installer stingy with the adhesive. You may be able to force them apart with a shim driven by a hammer. (Maybe) Do you know were the materials came from. You may be able to secure some replacements if needed.

Southeast Michigan here - slightly north of Windsor, Ontario. I have about 1000 SF of decking, portions built in 1984, 1994, 2005. Did them all with a rented post hole digger and a couple bags of Redi-mix each. The last section was done with sonotubes. All are still rock solid. It wasn’t that expensive - and probably just a day or two to auger the post holes, pour and set the posts.

The decking and railings cost way more than setting posts.

Bleach breaks down into table salt, you’re bringing the problem back over and over again lol

Thank you for your response. I have so many issues I don’t know where to begin man. It sounds like I picked the wrong thing to ask about lol. How do I Check for footer damage

We had our shower done recently, they used cinderblock to build the bench. Mostly because it needed to be hollow, because there is a random drain line, we were unsure if it was actually in use or left over from an old evap cooler, but figured better to be safe and leave it then sorry if water started draining into the attic

It's probably latex over oil. You have to get the latex off, and then either prime the oil or cover it with more oil paint. Big Box stores no longer sell oil based paint.

You really probably have to peel anything off you can, skim coat the areas that pulled off with mud and prime the whole wall. Someone else mentioned stix which imo is the best primer. You could also use all prime which is a clear primer that works well on drywall where the paper has come off leaving a rough brown texture. If you mud over that without using all prime your mud is likely to crack and bubble.

Stix is the best, especially for cabinets or other overpaint items.

Basic question from a first time DIYer...

I'm thinking of building this shed and reviewing the 10x12-S3 Studio Shed Materials.

What is this item?

• Description: 1x8 Tongue and Groove Siding
• Length/Size: 4'x8'x 1/2"
• Qty: 350 s.f.

It seems I need 350 square feet of 1" by 8" Tongue and Groove Siding (Is the length 8 feet?)

 

It's unclear what 4'x8'x 1/2" is exactly. Do I buy the siding in 4 feet by 8 feet sheets?

What is the 1/2" referrng to? I thought maybe it's the thickness of the siding but from the "1x8 Tongue and Groove Siding" description it should be 1"?

 

Perhaps something close to this? Although it's 5/8" instead of 1/2": https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/siding/plywood-panel-siding/5-8-x-4-x-8-pine-plywood-panel-siding-8-on-center-groove-pattern/1451140/p-1444439107854-c-13383.htm

Lol, the blue glow is coming from-

https://www.homewerks.com/product/bath-fan-bluetoothr-speaker-led-light-night-light-110-cfm-15-sones

And the cool looking led one in the reflection of the glass was cheap as hell from wish 🤣🤣

https://dl.wish.com/LBkT7

That's not good. Pick up some wide carbide scrapers and some Stix bonding primer.

Oh unfortunately it’s the whole wall… of several rooms

You're referring to the trim paint? It wasn't prepped properly and unfortunately you'd have to scrape it all off and start again.

Floating bench https://www.lowes.com/pd/ALFI-brand-ALFI-brand-ABS16S-BN-Brushed-Nickel-16-in-Folding-Teak-Wood-Shower-Seat-Bench/1000955676?cm_mmc=shp--c--prd--bth--ggl--PLA_BTH_225_Faucets-Showerheads-And-Bath-Decor--1000955676--online--0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=Cj0KCQjww4-hBhCtARIsAC9gR3bAR2vyhhMbZCiqKLOte4_hXAgdMfAkaOpL3v3UzPB_ZFJkw9IkghQaAgwzEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Keep making cuts along a straight edge over and over. You’ll burn a blade per 4’ cut. And the blade is screaming hot afterwards. Let it cool before putting in the trash can. Then the snap should be easier.

Edit: also it’s more about a high quantity of cuts with less pressure vs. forcing the blade into the board

Better bench, bb-17 would be a good fit

1981 house in the US. I did check several layers of paint for lead in a different room and no issues. But I can check the specific rooms with this issue later.

First off, is the old paint lead?

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Civil engineer?

That's the frost line in southern Ontario. There's no sense pouring a footing unless you get below the frost.