Attached picture to the post. I meant that they are joists, not studs.

Too much of a generalization. The pictured system works. With the floor as poured concrete and the cement board i'm assuming thinset will be the adhesive and that will be absolutely fine

Just build the bench, set it in place and then waterproof the whole corner again?

Not sure what the issue is tbh, this is how I’d prefer to do it personally. You wouldn’t want to pour your pan around the bench.

great would be saving me time. i was scared id only sand off the primer before it gets to the fuzzy part.

Hang in there

[deleted]

If you really want a shower bench like that, there are several articles that show people building them after the fact (like you) using cinder blocks, bricks, and mortar to get the shape and then finishing it off.

In fact, if I remember correctly, this was discussed in the Kerdi shower book.

However, I will agree with most everybody else. A corner bench like that is basically useless except for storing more shampoo bottles. Number one regret of my current shower build.

What's your waterproofing plan? Hope it is more than just cement board...

YMMV

Add a pic OP. Framing in the ceiling is generally called joists. The answer to your question is depends. Do you need to cut the full width of the joist to place the fixture? More importantly, why are you installing recess can lighting instead of flat led panels in 2023? The joist in question probably only supports the drywall hanging from it. If you can get away with cutting only the bottom half out it will probably be fine.

Most of it looks okay. I'd pull the sill and replace with PVC.

Trick is to get him in there. I know they're herbivores. Is there some garden delicacy they can't deny themselves?

Edit: now that the thread has been nuked, I figure the chances of getting an answer to my question were pretty slim. So, I fired up the Google machine.

It turns out that they love carrots and corn. That's one reason farmers don't like woodchucks.

Thanks, I appreciate the reality check on good tools

That will work well - holes are deep enough for sure. Pressure treated wood wont rot.

Get something with Disodium Octaborate Tetrahydrate as an active ingredient. If it is mold or mildew this will take care of it. Mix it according to label for a 15% solution. Spray on spot just to moisten. Let dry, repeat once. Walk away, enjoy life.

It is a form of Borax, very stable and has a very low toxicity.

Oral LD50 is 2500 in Rats. .. .. .. Aspirin is 200.

I could not get pic to load.

Vinyl is the way to go. If you're handy enough to be swapping out the casing, you're handy enough to put in a pre-built windowframe, and I think last time I bought one it was only in the $100 range, which is probably only slightly more than you'd pay for new casing lumber, caulk, and paint, and it'll last much longer.

I'm refinishing some oak stairs with a friend. We stained them, and then applied what we thought was a water based polyurethane on top. Turns out it was a water based polyacrylic which isn't recommended for stairs. So we waited till that dried (a couple hours), buffed it a bit and applied an oil based polyurethane over top. Now I'm worried we've made a big mistake. Any thoughts? Is this project doomed?

I agree, also wood feels better on bare ass than cold tile. I always have to heat the built in seat in our shower up with the wand to be tolerable.

For a deck that size in south ontario I would put posts in 42"- 48" deep sonotube. Deckblocks can be okayish for tiny decks but you will have problems with a 12x24 on them.

I have the same style fire pit. A quick and easy solution is to get the drum from a washing machine and sit it in the middle. They're smaller than the inside diameter of the pit (usually) and very perforated. Air gets drawn down the sides of the fire pit and into the holes.

You can also borrow a hammer drill and buy a masonry bit. Drill holes through the blocks close to the bottom of the pit.

1 and 2 foot levels are not the tools for longer runs. When doing fence posts or door frames you need a 6' level.

As for the Pythagorean theorem? I use it all the time as a reno carpenter and works great for me when need be. And I failed math.

Most people that tackle DIY think carpentry is easy and why do they charge?

Well we charge like any other trade. Years of experience and thousands in tools. All the right tools. You can not use a small level for door installs or fence posts.

Don't get me wrong. I'm all for DIY and learning but it comes at a cost. The cost is the learning curve and more important the right tools.

This shit was not that easy to me 40 years ago but dead simple now. I do without thinking.

Keep at it. You will get better. But you need the right tools. And this is what a lot DiYers don't get. You can not do a good build without the right tools. So you need to spend money to save money. And practice. Keep the renos simple and learn as you go.

Can you send or post a picture of the situation? Studs would generally be in walls and not above a suspended ceiling. Hard to give good advice without a solid idea of what you have going on

Quick thought. You're going to want to make sure the ground underneath the deck has a nice slope away from the house. Any dirt you pull for piles is dirt you can use for grading.

Normally, I would say go with a couple feet of gravel and deck blocks, but a 12' x 24' deck is a little large to lift and adjust he blocks after, if need be. If that happens, you'll be very unhappy with the time you "saved" during installation.

In my life, I've had two showers with corner benches and one with a full-on molded shower-width seat. Can confirm that any elevated surface will just be filled with bottles. It's human nature.

What kind of light is that???

Wood rots over time anyways, in most locations, even when drainage isn't an issue. So, there might hot actually be anything wrong. Could just be a moist are that has a lot of humidity. It looks like a block foundation, so the house likely has 30+ years, and that is likely an original window.

You should remove the ceiling sheetrock, where the plate will be… However, strictly speaking, if you get the top plate secured to the rafters through the Sheetrock, with some good lag screws, it’s not really going to change much.