I'm not going to say whether you should or shouldn't, but I will point out that model codes require something to prevent uplift due to wind, which deck blocks will not solve. Otherwise you've just built a giant heavy sail-projectile wrecking thing for the next tornado or wind shear. You may find that the work to sufficiently anchor it down to be close to the work required to put in some sort of actual foundation.

Really? Ah man, you're making this decision harder

We made a bench with concrete blocks for the frame, no reason you can't do that here if you're set on a permanently installed one.

Just put a movable stool or seat in there, no problem.

Watch some of Roy Underhill's videos "The Woodwright's Shop". He covers many of the basics and is entertaining to boot. Precision is the key. Use a square Learn to mark your cut lines accurately and don't forget the saw blade has width. So cut just to the side of the line.

I thought that at first but used some known dry wood with similar results. I can try to call him but unfortunately he’s hard to get a hold of and I probably won’t hear back from him until August..

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This may be the easiest option. How would I separate the stones without cracking them? I can then just keep a block out from each side when I reassemble.

second vote for "better bench"

Yep, water has never gotten behind tiles before.....

Your cement board is in the wet. It's not supposed to be in the wet.

Lucky for you, you can still "fix" it by either using Kerdi or Red Guard over your dry pack.

I have a work flow for my renovation projects. When tackling something new like a bathroom tile project it looks like this:

1. Demo and clean up (vacuum & detail)
2. Stock Material
3. Stock tools
4. Slowly begin - just play with the materials and tools together
5. Work - do the process discovered in #4
6. Detail the work
7. Clean up

Then I see that it turned out pretty well, now I have to do the shower walls because they look old. This process never ends.

> River rock floor

Are these as much of a pain in the ass to clean as I imagine?

I don't get it. You're not done with the process. You can still put in a bench. You haven't put down the pack or done any water proofing.

Build your bench. Put your dry pack in. Then water proof either via painted membrane or "paper" membrane.

I did my deck with blocks and I dug down a few feet and under each block and tamped limestone down to make a good base. It’s been 3 winters and she hasn’t budged…. I didn’t attach it to the house either. Southern Ontario as well

yeah ive never painted before and dont know how much of a difference it would make to sand before or after primer. it would save me a lot of time not sanding prior to primer, since i know i will still have to sand after primer x2

If you can expose the joists, run a 2x4 span between the joists and anchor with framing nails then throw your wall and anchor accordingly.

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It just takes time and hands-on practice. To this day I still sometimes wonder how much better my projects would turn out if I knew what the hell I was doing.

I’ve found with a 220gr 30 cal the ones at the edge of my yard flip a few times and land far enough back in my woods I don’t generally have to mess with them further. It’s also quiet enough to not wake the neighbors in the wee hours of the morning.

Thanks. This was the answer I needed, but didn't want to hear

Canada means frost heave will be an issue for sure

If you want to buy time treat with boat quality epoxy from West marine. It will have to be really really dry for it to work well. I have some garage windows with similar problems and they look great. The surface isn't newish looking but that fine for what I want. Alternative is replace everything with new high performance windows, there is a pretty good tax credit right now for insulation and energy saving upgrades.