Since when are we allowed to ask questions here? Did the policy change?

Only use a deck block if you know 100% that the ground won't move. If frost is an issue at all, pour the footings.

Is it a stud or strapping

Definitely efflorescence. I've had this happen from water seeping up from below the concrete in a basement, and I currently have this in a garage where the water comes in on the car and when it gets to the concrete leaches out some of the minerals (not sure, some form of calcium or calcite?) and crystalizes as the water evaporates.

The only case that needs remediation is when the moisture is coming through the concrete (so, not the garage example above) and has enough actual water moving to pool on the surface. Other than that just sweep or vacuum away. Don't breathe the dust if it gets airborne.

It’s wood below grade, it was destined to rot.

Remove the whole thing and mortar in a glass-block window.

I’m probably in the same boat as you. Have a few projects under my belt but my work never looks as good as the pros. But remember that pros do this all the time, this is like your first or second time doing some of these things. Give yourself a little bit of a break. I saw this video a while back (sorry it’s Facebook, only place the post it) and I realized I was not using my tape measured correctly: https://m.facebook.com/ThisOldHouse/videos/897033664132898

You could also be having issues when you cut your materials to length, are you not getting the saw blade in the correct spot so the item being cut turns out slightly too short or long?

You may want to get some longer levels. I have a 3 foot and a 5 foot for larger projects, helps me when I’m trying to level bigger items. Also, what sort of levels do you have? When I got my first house my mother bought me some basic tools from the bargain bin at Menards. The first level was all plastic and itself was not all that straight. Insert little blip here about how it may be worth a couple bucks more for some of these more essential tools.

When you are mounting shelves are they the ones with the brackets? I usually drill the first hole, then secure the shelf via the first screw to then level the shelf and drill the second hole through the bracket. I don’t trust myself to drill 2 holes without measuring between the first and second.

Step one would be identifying what you're doing wrong, step two taking appropriate steps to rectify that wrong

Get a 5gal bucket from Home Depot and turn it over and sit on it. Fixed.

I'm a contractor.

When I’ve designed fire pits before, I typically include a 3” tall x 6” wide air vent on the very bottom on two sides, I typically choose the least visible. This allows for proper airflow and drainage if there’s not any built into the pit.

Depending on construction you may be able to remove or cut a single stone out of its just the concrete paver style material. If there’s cmu and firebrick it may get a little tricky.

Also be careful bc sometimes materials can ‘pop’ under heat.

Oh, if I had to go the footing route. I would ABSOLUTELY rent an auger. I'm too old and whiney to deal with that kind of pain

Plywood with weights over one hole and a smoke bomb down the other helps with the patience bit.

Source: grew up on a farm and had to exterminate a lot of vermin.

lol ass...

Agreed, OP will end up having to sand after the primer either way.

Couple of people have already said this but use PVC to rebuild the casing after you remove all of the rotted wood. Part of the problem there is it's too close to the ground. Another problem is concrete wicks moisture. Wood should never touch concrete. PVC with a polyurethane caulk will solve all of these problems

You can also build up one by six PVC. Stack it to make 2x6 stock. You can glue it together with plumbers glue or polyurethane adhesive.

Make a sloped frame with slats or pressure treated plywood under the deck and use a waterproof membrane on top. Think about changing out the membrane in 20 years so make easy ways to disassemble it.

As others have said, get a nice teak wood shower bench. We paid about $220 for one from Amazon when we remodeled our bathroom last year. Here’s a picture of the shower with the bench:

https://imgur.com/a/dqGgNRS

Screws are high enough. It's fine just tile it. Waters not going behind the grouted and caulked tile.

That’s not mold, but rather efflorescence. Water dissolves minerals, the water with dissolved minerals reaches the surface where the water evaporates and the minerals form crystals.

There’s water soaking into the concrete from somewhere (surrounding soil, likely).

Home inspections are a scam anyway. The stuff these guys pick out is usually blatantly obvious. The things they should be looking at , they can’t, unless the seller is willing to let them to open walls. People are good at hiding things.

Personally I wouldn’t use deck blocks. I built my deck about the same size and not attached to the house. I’m in Florida so no frost line but I still dug to 24” for footings. My only advice is rent an auger, I didn’t and regretted it. My back still hurts just thinking about it. 😀. Good luck

I'm in the exact same boat. So far I've tried ammonia, and roach bombs to no avail. I'm going to try trapping him next. Otherwise, my last resort is waiting until he leaves his burrow, which I've kind of learned his patterns, and then hammering into the ground those anti dig spikes around the shed.

can anyone suggest me a 3/16 screw for drywalls that dont need an anchor?

stain blocking primer and sand again.

I’m looking to get milk crates, any ideas where I could find cheap/free milk crates