I'd add a utility knife, a cheapish ratchet set, and a set of metric and imperial allen wrenches to the above, and you'll be set to take on the vast majority of basic DIY projects and general things like furniture assembly for any new pieces

Build the bench out of concrete block and mortar, then tile it

Replace and Blueskin framing, get a PVC window installed... the pit is likely far too shallow and seems small for a window of this size, at least where I am from, good opportunity to add or replace weeping tile.

Outside foundation likely needs waterproof on a house that shows this kind of damage, not that they're necessarily related, but one is usually indicative of another in my experience...

Eavestrough issues could also be causing water buildup this close to the home, clogged downpipes or eaves. If your roof is old or you have trees in the area there is a good chance this needs attention also...

The one that came with the shower in our house tends to get quite slick. That's yet another reason to not have one: they aren't really a stable, reliable surface. Teak or other are much better in that they may not have the problem that tile has with being slippery.

I wonder how many folks who waved inspections during the lovely house buying spree are going to be screwed on that one when/if it comes time to sell because of the lovely DIY flippers.

Can confirm the fall danger. My shower has a built in seat and I slipped once and landed on my shin. Thought I broke my leg. There was a bruise there for 6 weeks.

The perch IS clutch, tho

Maybe what you're missing is the Schluter Kerdi stuff is installed with Kerdi-band along all the seams. It's completely watertight. You can see the bands (pinkish strips) in the photo where the guy is laying tile.

the screw slot hole is just there to put the thing over the screw, in the end the screw sits in the narrow part of the slot and i also think the op should use a screw in the "middle" (or to the left on the pic) a screw in to stop the sliding

I wouldn't be worried about the curb as much as how low the screws are inside the pan, as the top of the curb isn't going to hold water like the pan will. The pan needs to be watertight to 2" above the curb by code where I am. If they have screws below that, the liner should be replaced and whoever put the board up should pay for it.

Just to confirm: the concrete under the liner isn't flat, right?

It's super smooth.

I'm guessing so you don't injure yourself...

And it's far enough back to where you're only going to be near it, if you're sitting on it.

https://imgur.com/a/Rr4qY4W (As far as the shower head blasts water)

And if you're near the bench, you have to use the wand to wash yourself.

Hey! You stole that from me. Even if you typed it 5 hours before I read this...

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• You are asking about a project that someone else did.
• You are not asking a question relating to something DIY.
• You are not asking a question at all.
• You are submitting a "DIY Tips" or "Tricks" post.
• You are trying to submit a survey / fundraiser.
• You are asking what an item is called - try /r/whatisthisthing.
• /r/DIY allows only two types of posts - finished projects & help requests.
• If your submission is neither of these - it will be removed.

Please read our guidelines before resubmitting.

If you believe this was a mistake, please message the moderators.

They sell them on the shelf at Lowes. By a company called Schleuter or something. Just buy one and glue it in.

Timbertech Dryspace or Upsidebycolorguard.com

Dryspace works, Rain escapes needs to be installed before the deckboards.

We have one of these in our shower. Works fine. I believe it needs to be screwed into studs though, so the framing behind the cement board would need to be in the right place for the bench.

Fixed this exact problem last year on my house. Replaced the rotten wood frame around my PCV windows and installed weeping tile and a sump pit outside.

A lot of the options you'll find attach under the joist, which is the easiest and nicest looking solution. I couldn't do that because my joists sit on a cross member that would block the path of the corrugated sheeting, so I went with a between-the-joist membrane solution. If you're interested in that check out Goberco or Trex under deck membranes.

They staple to the top of each joist (after pulling up all the decking) and create a channel down to one end where you can cut a hole and run it into a gutter. I used the Goberco one a couple years ago (much cheaper than Trex) and haven't had an issue.

Makes sense. That is the piece I was missing.

I did that exact same bench. I did the pan first like you did and built the bench with concrete block. It's a little cold to sit on in the winter.

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The white one that folds up rather than down looks like a hazard to me. I know for a fact that I would scrape my leg against the exposed metal a least twice (because I wouldn't learn after the first time).

true, but if you sell the house and it gets inspected then, you can be sure they won't let you sell the house.