just put in a floating bench. you'll have to support it by the walls, and live with the big hole underneath it that will be hard to clean.

Rain Escapes from Trex or DrySpace by Timbertech

I agree. I think that's definitely it. Probably an older model or something

No, if you download the manual from that link, the buttons are identical to your photo.

I'd highly recommend a toolbag with a shoulder strap. Makes working on projects around the house a breeze and you're not running back and forth because you forgot something. Below are my recommendations for getting started with links. There are cheaper alternatives to everything, but these are all tools you'll quite often as a homeowner and I follow the "buy once, cry once" philosophy.

• Ratcheting screwdriver
• Standard screwdriver set
• Socket set imperial & metric
• Multi-function Needle nose Pliers
• Cobra Pliers
• Adjustable Wrench
• Allen wrenches
• 24" level - long enough for accuracy but not cumbersome to haul
• Claw hammer
• Utility Knife
• 5 in 1 tool & putty knife
• Studfinder
• Non-contact voltage tester - make sure the power is off!
• 18/20 volt impact driver/drill combo set - either Dewalt, Milwaukee, or Ryobi are decent brands in the US. There are better and (a lot) worse brands but those are all quality brands for homeowners. Pick a brand and stick with it so you only need one set of chargers/batteries.
• You already have a tape measure, make sure it's at least 25'
• a bag to carry everything - This is what I have, but there are many options out there.

And since your original question included picture hanging... buy a picture hanging kit with a bunch of hardware. You'll need it for years of hanging and you'll be happy you don't have to run out to buy each time.

Your pour concrete, cement is an ingredient of concrete. I know it's not really the point of this post, but it's one of those things that really bugs me.

It certainly does, at first I thought it was a alorair but the button configuration is wrong

It sure looks like an Aprilaire E070.

With the duct missing.

The most effective systems are a corrugated vinyl sheeting system that lay parallel across the top of the joists under the deck boards so the "troughs" of the corrugations lie between the joists and the peaks lay across the top. This requires taking up your deck boards and putting them back down, which is really only feasible if they are screwed and not nailed and your deck is not huge. It's a new deck so the fasteners should still be clean and easy to work. This both seals/protects both the tops of your joists and provides a water runoff path.

Next best is a hard lid-type system made of soffit panels attached to the underside. You can use actual soffit material, or corrugated plastic or steel panels that are commonly used for roofing/siding. Metal tends to span longer lengths than plastic materials without sagging. Install with the troughed side on an angle so that any water going through the deck goes into the troughs and then runs off the ends. Depending on how your deck is laid out and how much flow you expect, you may want to put a raingutter at the end to catch this runoff and funnel it aside to a specific point.

I'm looking at this second option as my deck is large and I'm not keen on pulling up the decking boards.

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Yeah sorry, I wasn’t really using a true terminology. What I meant was, install planks of nice looking wood (stained/finished to your color choice) around that vertical surface in your pics. Personally, I would have the planks extend about 1/4-1/2 inch above the top of your floor (on 3 sides, but flush at the side where your stairs exit), and then install like a 1/2” (or whatever thickness gets you flush to the top of those vertical planks) by 1.5” or 2” with a nice finished edge to sort of “cap” over your flooring on the upper level. And on the stair exit side, you can pop on that metal piece that the other commenter posted.

dehumidifier

Pull out all the damaged wood, but more than likely that's going to extend into the frame around the window itself, at which point the easiest thing is going to be replacement windows

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You would put the waterproof membrane on top of the mortar bed after that is poured, if you were worried about the integrity of the shower pan, not directly on the shower pan.

No, shower pan membranes should go behind the cement board. The cement board should just stop above the finished floor height.

Figure out why they are rotting and correct that issue first. Usual culprits are either lack of proper drainage or mis-aimed irrigation.

That outer area is entirely cosmetic so it's up to you whether you replace it or just rip it out and deal with what's left. It's the casement part around the actual frame of your window that's critical for sealing. The key to replacing those casements will be matching the dimensions of your window, because it's easy to shim a bigger opening but you can't squish the window into a smaller one. The windows are probably screwed to the wooden casements and sealed with clear or white silicone.

The most durable solution to replace what you have would be composite trim. It usually comes in white by default.

When I had to work on my house I waited for a sale at HD and bought one of those brushless tool sets, drill, 90 degree drill (helps drilling in tight spaces), ratcheting drill, oscillating multi tool, sawsall, orbital sander, and round saw. Once you have the tools you can find out how to do anything and safely. I have used every one many times.

• You are asking about a project that someone else did.
• You are not asking a question relating to something DIY.
• You are not asking a question at all.
• You are submitting a "DIY Tips" or "Tricks" post.
• You are trying to submit a survey / fundraiser.
• You are asking what an item is called - try /r/whatisthisthing.
• /r/DIY allows only two types of posts - finished projects & help requests.
• If your submission is neither of these - it will be removed.

Please read our guidelines before resubmitting.

If you believe this was a mistake, please message the moderators.

Use something like this. There's a video in the link showing how it's installed.

• You are asking about a project that someone else did.
• You are not asking a question relating to something DIY.
• You are not asking a question at all.
• You are submitting a "DIY Tips" or "Tricks" post.
• You are trying to submit a survey / fundraiser.
• You are asking what an item is called - try /r/whatisthisthing.
• /r/DIY allows only two types of posts - finished projects & help requests.
• If your submission is neither of these - it will be removed.

Please read our guidelines before resubmitting.

If you believe this was a mistake, please message the moderators.

The liner should come up 10" from the floor depending on local requirements. Not a plumber.

Ryobi was my first set for sure. When they broke, I replaced with better versions. Harbor Freight was a godsend for one-off projects

I can’t go near a stud finder they keep going off.

My experience with this is that it's almost impossible to manipulate a single wire on a switch without touching the (usually) grounded bracket of the switch, and if that wire is hot, you're getting zapped. In the best case of that scenario it's across your hand but if you're holding that switch with one hand and your other hand touches voltage, current flows across your body. This is how people die. Just turn the breaker off or remove the fuse.