Recent comments in /f/DIY

deputydog1 t1_je5f6c5 wrote

Don’t do it. Build the shower without a bench. They aren’t practical for people with different heights, different injuries or disabilities (broken leg, bad knee) and are a head-cracking hazard in a fall.

Buy benches in teak for looks - or benches of other materials that are adjustable.

Source: My husband’s bad back, my elderly mom’s bone issues and my injured leg tendons

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ActingNormal t1_je5f07a wrote

I agree. I have a teak bench in my bathroom. The wood matches the shelf at the top of my towel ladder. The wood adds texture and warmth. Those who prefer more room in the shower can remove it. It also doubles as a place to sit while drying hair or a vanity stool. It also gets used for holding a towel beside the tub. I think a teak bench has more uses than a built-in shower bench, especially in a smaller shower.

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MidwestJackalope t1_je5et11 wrote

I cheaped out on stud finders for a long time before I finally just paid for a proper, well functioning one. I like the Franklin ProSensor that "highlights" a stud with a row of LED's. I'd also recommend a few rolls of blue painters tape to help mark out studs and hanging locations that are easily removed when you're done.

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IblinkfanA t1_je5eqwl wrote

Your description is so vague and honestly, no one can give you proper advice without being there and looking at it themselves.

As an electrician who has worked on homes where the bright homeowner thought they knew what they were doing and could save a few bucks….just hire someone.

If you do things wrong or end up leaving a confusing mess, you could very well end up paying more than you otherwise would have. When contractors show up to a “handy man” repair job, it instantly puts them in a bad mood. Want someone in a bad mood working on your house? Fixing what is wrong? Want someone who is saying to themselves, “well, this is how ‘thisaccountforwork’ did it and, while not right, it still works and that’s how he did it so I’m not messing with that mess” to do it?

In addition, demo is the quick and, for the most part, easy part for contractors. You won’t be saving much if you’re still paying them to come in and wire new.

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bdjeremy t1_je5dzag wrote

Get a handheld electrical tester that you can hold next to any wires and if they have electricity running thru them it'll beep at you. If no beep, no electricity then take them down. Getting zapped sucks but it probably won't kill you. If you wear tennis shoes and only touch one wire at a time, you can switch out a hot light switch. Don't be skered.

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DjangofettBR549 t1_je5c2jz wrote

I would get a basic battery stud sensor (Zircon is well known and works adequately for homeowner use) that senses wood, metal, and electrical. And a separate basic level; somemething longer than a "torpedo" level (longer length is more accurate and more versatile) - in the States I'd say a 2ft one, but presumably you have them in metric sizes(?), so something in the neighborhood of 60cm.

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phormix t1_je5bwjj wrote

Tip from somebody who didn't: Check how straight your walls and corners are.

I had a bathroom where one wall was off (I didn't make the wall) and while it wasn't obvious normally it was very much so when compared against the straight runs of tile

I ended up ripping out my first tile job and re-doing it with the tiles rotated 45 degrees (points towards the wall instead, which looked much better

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time_spent t1_je5bi2v wrote

If they don't turn off, and you haven't changed the wiring from a known working configuration, then change the switch. Even if the light strings are non-dimming, they should at least turn off.

If you have changed the wiring configuration since it was last known to work, consult the switches manual. There were a few configurations possible to accommodate different lighting types. Also check that neutral isn't miswired somewhere and actually hot.

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