I asked in another sub

Simple question guys nothing about cost just concern. I live in East Ky one of the areas that was flooded. We’ve not been home since, I had to go home today to do a fema inspection over the phone. We found some troubles. I’m a totally desk jockey with a background in social work, so I’ve been learning a lot. But during the inspection which was conducted on the phone the back wall of the house which took the damage from the water coming off the hills, it looked pregnant, sticking out probably 2-3 inches. With the water damage and roof damage is this a concern? Thank you for answers!

It sounds like you may have an issue with the sensitivity of your stud finder, as it is detecting metal in the same spot as the studs. The metal option is likely detecting something else in the wall, like pipes. Try increasing the sensitivity of your stud finder to see if it will pick up the studs more clearly. If that doesn't work, then you might want to invest in a different stud finder. There are many reviews in this subreddit about various stud finders that can help you make the best decision. Good luck!

Either way you’re going to need trim where the flooring ends and the stairwell begins, and for the trim to look right you’d either need a drywall crew OR go the route of a nice wood piece. That part is completely up to you: personally, I would get wood pieces to “box in” the stairwell - it’ll accent it/could looks a heck of a lot nicer than drywall there.

/FPV (first person view, Drones) gets a whole lot of /Fordperformancevehicles posts trying to sell their aussie ford..

I wanna click the link, but I am scared 😨

Sorry link is : https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-2VDLjVKaCyQ1dQSOMhQ5BKYGQ3EfPHu

I’m sure they’re not - hit Lowe’s and Home Depot and all available was utilitech brand 😕

Is that Bosnian Bill or a different one?

Sure is great when blowhards gatekeep a subreddit

Should have been /r/CallALocksmith

That link doesn't work.

Also, they're likely not 120v strands and/or the dimmer switch isn't LED compatible hence the wonky behavior.

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Gfci has been hooked up properly. Line to line, load to load. Checked the wires with the breaker to confirm. The load terminals have 120v, and the wires just beyond the old terminals read 120v.

All the wires are 12/2 (black, white, ground). The one with 3 sets has a single wire and a 2-into-1 pigtail. The others have just 2 sets of single, or one single

Just to be technical, what you are asking about is an isolation joint, not an expansion joint. It never hurts to add one in this scenario, the main reason being differential settlement of the two slabs causing cracking if they can’t slide past each other. You can use impregnated asphalt isolation joint or a couple layers of 30 lb felt paper. Make sure you compact the soil and put a base of gravel under the slab prior to pouring. This helps prevent settlement cracking.

> it’s from an old 80s show

For those who don't know, the show is Police Squad starring the great Leslie Nielsen.

Instantly hits when reading

I find cheap stud finders (which is all?) to be extremely unreliable. Return it if you can... I just use a small high-strength magnet (I usually grab a OXO bag clip with a strong magnet that lives on our fridge) and rub it across the wall lightly grazing the surface. It will stick to the drywall screws. mark them then scan up and down to make sure you find more to confirm its a stud and not a random screw from something else... Remember they are usually on 16" centers (in the US) but can be on 24" centers for some interior (non load) walls. They can also be closer than 16" when an extra is needed for a corner or a intersection with another wall, etc.

And, its confusing for everyone... The "Pro" that mounted the microwave in our kitchen attached it to the 3" PVC drain pipe in the wall instead of a stud... found that when renovating the kitchen...

Lol that voice...

Forgive me if I'm stating something you already know...

I would start at the GFCI. Disconnect the outlet and make sure which wire is live (breaker on). (Breaker off) Connect that live wire to the line side of the GFCI. If it was previously on the load side, it would power the outlet, but not any other outlets connected on the other terminals.

>1 has 3 sets of wires, 2 have 2 sets of wires, 1 has 2 sets of wires)

I'm a bit confused here. Do you mean 3 pairs of 14/2 (or 12/2) coming into one outlet box? Or do you mean 14/3 (black, red, white, and ground)? The former would suggest to me that this box forks out to 2 other circuits. Some pigtailed would be required since you need to send power in 2 directions after power this outlet.

But first, back up a bit. After connecting the 2nd set of wires to the GFCI, flip the breaker on and determine which outlet has power on any of its wires. It may be this one with 3 pairs.

Funny nobody mentioned r/EmoLocksmiths

Edit: actually it's not funny. At all.

Never gets old..

This is the Post Locking Mod, and what I have for you today…

Wtf are you gonna do? Lock this post?

I’ve got a 36” door opening with a bifold that I want to convert to double pivot doors. Unfortunately this 70s house has a 1”x2” door stopper/trim around the front of the door, reducing the flush, himgeable surface of the casing to 34”. I can’t shave off 1/2” on each side of the hollow doors… and looking at taking the jambs out and redoing the trim looks like it would be more expensive and labour intensive than its worth.

34” doors are hard to come by where I am, but there are 32” and 36” bifolds at home depot. I thought maybe I could take one off of each to average to 34”… (there are two closets)

Would it bother you if one side of the door was 16” and the other side was 18”? They would swing out opposite directions with hinges on the outer side. https://imgur.com/a/tPNnPZt

No extra needed. Just laid about ~1000sf of 5mm LVP in a finished basement and followed manufacturer instructions (although I was scared since I was laying onto concrete subfloor). Floor came out great and all I put down was a vapor barrier (thick plastic) and to my surprise, it doesn’t feel cold at all like the tile that’s in the basement bathroom 🥶

It's a fully framed floor assembly, it's more of a loft than a real attic. You can see the vented section at the top above the plywood I still need to paint lol