Recent comments in /f/DIY

Maoman1 OP t1_je1ko01 wrote

No solution will ever be 100% successful at keeping laymen out, but it's working well enough. Any posts that make it past the sidebar, stickied post, warning messages, trap flair, and automoderator filters simply get reported by users instead and I remove them manually and refer them with a macro. It's a small subreddit so that only happens a few times a week.

edit: I'm confused why this comment would be controversial.

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lululock OP t1_je1k5sw wrote

I planned to get a working BMS from (preferably) a non bloated battery to minimize puncture risks.

There's absolutely no insulation from the heatsink and the battery. Microsoft did put a huge chunk of the cooler on top of the battery (I strongly believe it has been done in propose). Nobody with a sane mind would do that but yet, Microsoft did it...

I think that I'll try to solder 18650 cells to the original BMS and see how it goes. If it does well, no need to reverse ingeneer it. If not... I guess I'll have to acquire some knowledge first to do it myself.

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Guygan t1_je1k1yp wrote

  • You are asking how to "get started" on a project.
  • You are asking what is the best method or approach to a project.
  • You are asking whether or not you should do a project.
  • You are asking for advice on what project you should make ("what can I make within my budget?")
  • If you have a project in mind, please do some basic research on the matter, come up with your plan, then you can ask about a specific aspect of the project.

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Ex-maven t1_je1jmqt wrote

If you find it detecting metal intermittently along a straight vertical (same vertical line as the "stud" setting), those are likely metal drywall screws. If the device senses both "stud" & "metal" continuously, then I would expect there are metal studs, which is common in modern construction of larger buildings.

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Maoman1 OP t1_je1jl9d wrote

I don't expect this to be 100% successful, but I do expect it to be partially successful, which is better than doing nothing at all. Even if it only halves the number of false referrals, that's a win in my book.

And yeah, we already have all sorts of notices and stuff on our own subreddit, basically everywhere I could cram them. There's even a trap post flair called "I am not a locksmith" which gets your post automatically removed with a message sending you to AskALocksmith. This post is just for y'all :)

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thoraway97 t1_je1jfz6 wrote

Based on the pins in your other picture, clk and data are probably an I2C interface, int is for sending hardware interrupts, not sure about "det". If you have access to an arduino or something, you might be able to try reading the output from a working BMS and then reverse engineering it for your own battery, but that's a bit of time and effort compared to a OEM part. Maybe some sort of insulator inserted to block the heat from the fan instead?

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Trigs12 t1_je1i1dy wrote

Too many variables/possibles to really say over the internet. It might never dry out if the issue causing the damp isnt sorted, or you might be able to dry it out in good weather, but the next wet weather you get dampness again.

Could be high ground levels outside,causing damp to travel across especially if solid walls. If the specialist has recommended injected dpcs, high ground levels are the first thing id be checking.

But really, the specialist you've had out should be able to identify anything like that, and if you have any doubt, it may be worth a second opinion.

The injected damp course is something that splits opinions greatly. Some people say its great/bad. Others say rising damp is a myth entirely.

But at the end of the day, there is likely a reason for the damp in the first place, and that should be identified first, if the chimney fix hasnt been sucessfull.

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allangee t1_je1hmhw wrote

I'm guessing the original came with some kind of mounting clips that screwed to the wall first.

You could just use squares of plywood, built up to the same thickness of the inside of the clip, and then add a spacer the same thickness of the clip. fasten the plywood to the wall then hang the cabinet.

In the pictures, it also looks like there's a small notch for a similar clip -- there was probably some kind of modular system.

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Maoman1 OP t1_je1h8oh wrote

Five years is a long time--things have changed dramatically since then. It's not even the same mod team, nevermind the rules and policies.

Also yes you can put a medeco cylinder in some baldwin locks, but baldwin makes an awful lot of very different locks and many of them are not compatible with anything other than what they start with.

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BrickGun t1_je1h6gt wrote

Get a Dremel with a cutting wheel (usually a few come in a kit with the tool). You'll find it very useful throughout the years beyond this DIY project. I've used that exact thing to cut these exact same wire shelves from HD for my pantry. You can also use the grinding wheel (also usually comes with a basic kit) to smooth the rough ends before you cap them. Cutting each bar only takes a few seconds with practice. And don't forget safety glasses! :D

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