I'm a locksmith, and I'm a locksmith

It's been working great for over half a year ¯\_ (ツ)_/¯

The metal hooks used to attach to a metal bracket that mounts to the wall first. Then it essentially hangs on that bracket. If this were mine, I would remove the back and metal hangers. Replace the back with plywood or similar to match the thickness of the top, then screw into studs through the plywood.

Who are you, and how did you get in here?

I call the power tool one the Harbor Freight test. Buy the cheap version first, if you use it enough to break it then buy the quality one.

Good way to kill your subreddit

you need a dry wall crew to clean that up.

Convenient . . . but not worth the investment, unless they will be used again many more times.

The weight of a person isn’t any different that all the junk people store in Attics .

i was thinking that too. airflow might be an issue, since the whole thing "cools" from the "freezer"

Show less than you have and say less than you know.

BONUS: Live within your means (spend less than you make).

The best time to do it is years ago, and the second-best time is now.

Mostly WRT planting trees, but I'm applying that to lots of stuff lately.

fancy! id go with an oscillating tool for the cutting

dollar store pans might be made to fit. buy some tin snips.

Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.

If you need a power tool to finish a project, buy a cheap one. If you find yourself using that tool a lot, upgrade to an expensive one.

Given the state of U.S. healthcare costs, a Saw Stop table pays for itself the first time you use it.

Same idea; If you're working on a project alone with power tools, always tell someone to check on you in 15 minutes.

Do all your layout for a home project on blue masking tape.

Lay the tape, mark your marks with sharpie, that way it's easy to visualize where things will go, if you don't like where they are, remove the tape and repeat.

That way you don't end up with 40 extra lines and marks when you arrive at the final layout. Works for walls, cabinets, hanging pictures or tvs, especially well when there are two mounting points on the back of something, tape to the back of the mount, poke holes where the screws will go, remove the tape and position on the wall where the thing will go

Make cardboard mock ups of small stuff to get the right size, check with the cutout before you go to install, for example a medicine cabinet in the bathroom.

Choose all your materials for finish before you start the project, at least then you'll know how everything will work together once it's nailed to the wall

If you go to HD or Lowes for fittings or fasteners or lumber, get one extra or 10% extra just in case, it might save you a trip or two back to the store, return what you didn't use at the end of a project, returns are easy, four trips to the store in the same day to get the right fittings are a huge time sink.

Put one extra fastener in if you're worried about strength of mounting something, say a stair hand rail, or cabinets. You'll be a lot better off with 7 screws than 6 and a cabinet on the floor with broken dishes.

Make better decisions when buying fixtures for your home, an extra $25-60 or even$100 can save you a lot of headaches replacing low grade stuff, you have to think about it long term. For example when choosing a garage door opener, get the $230 liftmaster/chamberlain instead of the $180 genie.

Seal openings in the exterior of your house extra well for air tightness, insulation helps a bit regulate temps but if you're house leaks like a seive no amount of insulation is going to do you as much good as making sure the inside of your house isn't wide open to the outside, bugs and roaches love to climb in through those spots, too.

Glue is stronger than nails, the pin nails you see in cabinets and furniture are just there to keep everything in place until the glue dries

>It's not rocket science but it is engineering

Technically, Rocket science is engineering. :)

No. Trusses are engineered for the exact specifications of their use. There is no modifying them (short of hiring another engineer to completely re-engineer it all for you).

Also...is that a bed? Is someone living up there? Most roof floor/truss systems aren't designed for actual live loads of people living in the space.

Get a clear hard case( not silicone) and paint the inside of the case. Let it dry longer than you think it needs.

You're right... I guess I'll salvage the BMS from another dead battery which hasn't expanded yet. I'll ask a few repair places around. Maybe they could even strip out a BMS for me.

But then comes the part where I'll solder new cells to it. Do you think it will get the extra capacity of 18650 cells ?

Nail polish will flake too. You'd kinda have to sand the phone to get any sort of bite from a paint finish. If you want to go that route you'll want to get to close to automotive grade as you can. That means lots of sanding, keeping everything free of any finger grease and using a robust primer>color>clear coat combo.

A wrap will be easier 100% but if you want to go for it it's all about planning and prep

1. Straight up painting it will look really bad when it dries. 2) Paint has chemicals and smell to it, do you want that on your phone? Get a case.

You just put the screws through the sides of the window frame , inside the house , instead of using the nailing flange .

The screws will be visible , so get some that are as close to the same color of the frame as possible , unless you’re going to paint the frames .

We ordered our with the frames in the color we wanted so no painting required .

Ah excuse me I misunderstood the original intent. I can't pretend I understand your reasoning, as it sounds like a very non portable solution for a device that was sold on the basis of portability.

I would probably recommend buying the replacement battery and attempting to remove BMS from that rather than mess about with the spicy pillow

I wouldn't do anything solid. The shelves need to allow airflow.