I'm replacing a bathroom vanity and sink,

On the new sink should I install the new faucet and drain prior to installing anything else, would that make my lifer easier?

These:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/ClosetMaid-Large-and-Small-Closet-Pole-End-Caps-for-Wire-Shelving-14-Pack-71016/100095946

They are usually sold right by the shelves and shelf brackets.

What little plastic end caps are you referring to exactly? I really like this idea - have been considering it myself already - but don't want to risk causing any damage to the fridge.

I think you can still use them. You would probably prep the rough opening the same way as you would a new construction window, with a sloped sill (using cedar siding) and flashing installed in the correct orientation and locations. The important part will be how to you water proof it without a flange, but that will depend on how the window is constructed. If you wanted to get fancy you could probably even make a flange from aluminum stock and a good caulk like OSI quad max or something.

Frame normally, leave an appropriate gap for window size.

Waterproof opening.

Put outside wall covering on. If flat that's great. If not flat you may want to allow for a flat portion the same width as the replacement window border so it can sit flat against wall.

Put window in with quality exterior caulk along the frame that hits the outside wall.

If the outside wall covering is some type of boards/siding , I'd see if it you can get it to just lay proud of the window frame for more water proofing.

A lot of places do have a listing for this specific part, but when you actually go to the listing page it says it is no longer available from the manufacturer. It's essentially a placeholder for people who look up their fridge and want to see what the parts are. The few places I've found that actually DO have it available for purchase do not ship to Canada, I've even called them to confirm.

I've been keeping an eye out already, I just wasn't sure what the "best" way to DIY it would be. I want to be sure whatever I use is decently sturdy and won't damage the fridge, but who knows what I'll end up doing lol. In the end it's a free fridge so I can't complain.

OK 8 1/8 maybe too high may have to remove the existing ones and simply replacing. The human stride kinda forces a 7 3/8 max stair rise

I googled RF-6350-233 and found it from 50+ retailers (some are no doubt just different store fronts for the same supplier); hard to imagine no one ships to Canada.

However, based on the low value of this appliance, I would not spend that much money on it.

Take measurements and keep them and a tape measure with you whenever you are out shopping. Eventually you will find something that will fit (or you can cut to fit) that will work - cutting board, lid for a plastic bin, etc.)

Get some wire closet shelves from Home Depot or a similar place. Cut them to size with a hacksaw. Buy the little plastic end caps to put over the cuts.

If there are instructions on how to install, then I suggest you get the structure to the point that the instructions start at. Maybe not the optimal path, but at least you can install the windows as the manufacturer recommends.

I mean, if you can believe that a wall supporting nothing with nothing above it and nothing below the floor to support it is somehow structural, and want to pay someone to tell you otherwise, be my guest. I just know there’s a point where one can be far-more-than-reasonably sure of a thing and not need to spend money to validate the 0.001% probability.

Glad we've got the responsible answers out of the way, now we can go to the practical answers

In order to remove that support you have to figure out what work it does and how you can transfer any loads it's carrying to some other structure. This is done all the time in balloon framing whenever you have an exterior penetration (Windows and doors) or mechanical or HVAC

Each truss is rated for the load it's carrying so in order to remove one the first thing would be to double up or somehow increase the strength of the trusses on either side and then bridge those two with blocking or a header. It's not rocket science but it is engineering. Because to do it correctly you have to have a good understanding of the work of each of these framing members and ideally the mathematical tools to be able to calculate loads. Trusses do more than hold up the roof. They also keep the walls from bowing out and keep the ceiling from sagging. Any solution has to solve all of these problems.

And finally there is a practical consideration. Whatever you do that deviates from standard framing practice can impact the resale value of your home.

Thank you thats what I was gonna do I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything or there wasnt any tips or tricks

Most manufacturers recommend pouring a leveling compound first in order to prep the floor. if there is too much deviation, it will cause the joints of the planks to separate over time and ruin the floor.

No extra underlayment needed. Level the floor and add a vapor barrier then install.

I need advice for cutting into an acrylic front panel of this case for an intake fan. I have no advanced tools for doing it. I've looked for some videos but I'm curious how would you recommend doing it if I want it to be a hole, not a U shaped cutout off the edge?

Like I said I don't have any sort of vertical saw, I just thought I'd do it the cardboard cutter method and then push it out.

Yeah. I went with 10mm for my bedroom.

They do make it thicker. 4-5 mm thick is from light commercial/residential product lines. Then they have heavy duty/high traffic commercial LVT which can run 8-10mm thick — But you’re definitely paying for it $$$.

Thank you so much!! You are amazing for answering my question. Now I know where to start. Thanks again!

Anything you do there once removing the triangle of the truss, you compromise the integrity of the structure.

The only responsible answer is no. Anytime you compromise a truss you need an engineer to sign off on it.

Thanks will do. So i now see additional underlayment is a no, but a vapor barrier ok?

I want to keep the room as comfortable as possible. The concrete was poured in the 50's it's far from laser level. I figured the thermal break and the extra padding would help not to mention sound deadening.

Your submission has been removed for one or more of the following reason(s):

• Your question does not include the research you've done to find an answer yourself, or why that research didn't answer your question.

This is a basic requirement so others do not spend time repeating your steps. It is not a judgement about your question being "too easy." We're looking for evidence that you've made an attempt yourself.

• Please do not use /r/DIY as your first stop for questions - we are not Google.

• Please search Google and /r/DIY to see if your question has been asked before. Check owners manuals, tech support forums or contact the manufacturer.

• Have you already done some basic research and are still stuck?

• Please include what research you have done in your question so that others do not repeat your steps.

• Consider posting your question in the sticky thread at the top of the subreddit.

• Ask your question in our Discord server in the appropriate channel.

Please read our Full Sub Rules before resubmitting.

If you believe this was a mistake, please message the moderators.

###Do not respond to this comment - you will not receive a response.

7 3/8". So it would be 8 1/8" with the new 3/4" tread on top.