I understand that. The wallpaper pattern I’m looking at is not self adhesive. It is meant to be pasted. I’m wondering if there’s a way to install that particular kind in a way that is temporary.

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This was the before picture. Stinks losing the shelving but I think there is no value in making the opening bigger.

This entire post was cringe.. from the amount of effort put into the captions that are just... Poorly written and cringe content.

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https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/pipe-fittings/polypipe-fittings/1-sidr-19-100-psi-potable-water-poly-pipe/11230/p-1444431563081-c-8570.htm?tid=617ddd94-2290-4d2f-889d-50df643e1f8a&ipos=10&exp=false

It's a Menards link, they sell it at most big box home improvement stores. It uses simple plastic shove in connectors.

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I wish I'd have seen this before I did my kitchen🥹

This. I recently fitted some lvt flooring which is about 5mm thick.

As it was going onto concrete subfloor, I decided to add some fibre board under to help it warm things up a little. The instructions said not to do this but I thought the extra warmth would be needed. Well it's fitted now and does have a slight flex to it as you walk on it.

Tbh I wanted a waterproof flooring as it's in the kitchen so the thicker planks weren't really considered, also didn't want to use the glue down stuff as it seemed harder and longer to fit.

I'm kind of regretting it now, but it's not too bad, I just wouldn't do it this way again. I do feel I was right in that the lvt backing is no where thick enough to help take the cold out of a concrete floor.

Really they should make these lvt about 10mm thick to keep the strength in it.

I'm fully sure you believe so.

I wouldn’t.. just get an over the door top hanger if you must put it in that spot. I wouldn’t attempt to mount anything on a hollow door.

I think you have your answer about additional underlayment (no), but just wanted to chime in about leveling. Make sure you or your contractor do all you can to level the floor under the vinyl. Peaks and valleys will cause the same type of movement in the joints, and will be very visible in the final product.

Concerning the product waterproof floating vinyl plank or tile floor, it will not leak to the subfloor - by the same token, condensation from the concrete will not rise through the seams.

No! Quick answer, but vinyl is too thin for any kind of underlayment except ones specifically made for vinyl, which, of course are the more expensive kinds. If the underlayment is not made specifically for vinyl, it will be soft and compressable, which allows the vinyl to bend and move and lose all integrity of the seam lock.

You should put in a new post. It looks like the post that's there wasn't installed very deep, or it has rotted through (or both).

I tend to use the heavy duty marine grade or rv grade one. Something with multiple plys and with uv resistance.

Paint the wall. Then put the logo of your favorite club team on the wall. Or your favorite beer. It’ll make you smile when you see it and obviously brighten it up.

If you can find a second hand light fixture to add in there, go for it. Or a light up Guinness sign. That could be fun.

How are the joints fit together? What is the material? Where can I find it? Do you have a link I can use get more information?

That gets into another problem I have had. My hoses have all kinda sucked. Given this project will be pretty low pressure but my garden hoses have all burst within two years.

What hoses do you use?

Most cheap-ass hollow doors have a lot less structural timber than that door - 1½" max top and bottom, about the same on each side, and a block where the handle goes. ... Try picking one up - they're shockingly light.

I use heavy duty hoses. That way I get the flexibility, can move them if I need without having to rebuild them, and they're easy to replace if damaged. Plus, they're uv resistant.

Don’t use underlayment unless the manufacturer allows it. If something happens the mill will deny the claim. Get something with backing on it so you are within warranty and you save a bit of money.

If you're adding Treads over top, then be prepared for an inconsistent feel at the top and bottom steps. Definitely won't be a natural feel....but I'm sure you'll get used to it

We had some LVP installed last year and the installer followed the manufacturers directions, which didn’t require underlayment. We started getting peaking between planks do to hydrostatic pressure. Manufacturer has since changed directions and requires it now. Still fighting with manufacturer to replace our flooring.

This is extra, super duper incorrect.

Follow the manufacturer’s directions- more padding means more motion at the joints, and very quick failure for many major brands that already include an underlayment on the planks

Source: did the same room twice last year

You CAN scuff and redguard over badly installed tile to make it impermeable. At least for a temporary fix until you demo and redo the bathroom.