I have a portable media blaster I use on various things. I've seen a lot of blasted rocks and block, you'd just have to be careful as hell with doing it installed like that, cus the grout is going to break off way easier than the stone.

I solved the issue with a small heated towel rack/stand.

Looks like you need a new "branch wye" (that's the name of the piece of pipe with the little arm on it that the hose is connected to). It connects to the "basket strainer" (the piece that goes through the sink opening) using a "slip joint" nut and washer. You should be able to take it off with a pair of adjustable pliers. Make sure you have a new "flange washer" for the connection between the "branch wye" and "basket strainer". If you take this photo to a hardware store or plumbing supplier, they should be able to outfit you with the proper parts.

Blue painters tape is only guaranteed to not mess anything up if removed within 7 days. When she removes that wallpaper, the walls will be destroyed no different than if she glued the wallpaper properly.

1 inch black plastic pipe. We use it on the farm for water out to pastures. Cheap and pretty tough.

There are self adhesive and removable wall murals. 1000’s of them.

What's the rise on the first tread? If it within range that's fine but looks like it may be too tall with the tread on top

I plan on adding 3/4” treads on top.

Well looks like what I see in the NE all the time, first are you pulling the old treads or placing the new ones on the old, because it looks like you will be losing about an inch or more on the first step it will change a lot, if the rise is fine then the difference will be noticeable enough that it will hide the transition

Perfectly fine as long as you kids arent doing pull ups on it

Use a paint scraper/putty knife to get off the glue - sanding that will probably gum up the sandpaper and be very annoying (not to mention making some nasty dust). Then cover the holes with spackling. At that point you can sand, or just paint if you're not super picky.

Can you tell me more about your experience? Jacking the slab didn’t level it for you because the void was too big?

As someone who went through something similar, I recommend not trying to take the cheaper "easy" way. I had a sagging basement slab (4.5" elevation difference at the lowest point in the middle) and had three separate lifts by regional pros. After almost $17k and months of planning/inspection/consulting, it still messed up my sewer lines, and I had to jack out everything from the first 4" wye back to the vertical stack, replace it all, and repour it.

Save yourself the trouble..trench it and replace.

Edit: Jacking it all out identified the culprit of the sagging...a leaking laundry drain line. It wouldn't have been able to be identified without jacking out the concrete.

With all due respect, I wouldn’t waste time on cheap imported stuff like that. Search the thrift stores or Craigslist and just buy another one. Check Walmart, too. They have about the cheapest appliances around.

Tap a small finishing nail at the bottom of the vertical side rails but above the horizontal section, you will tell right away if it hollow or not. The 2 small holes will be low and out of sight until you can fill with wood putty. You can always use the college dorm trick and fill the holes with white toothpaste.

I saw a video where this lady put painters tape all across her walls, and put the wall paper on top of that to make sure the walls would be damage free upon move out.

Ps: what’s wrong with using the hook on the shower glass?

Follow the manufacturer directions for the specific product. I do this for a living, generally I don't use a separate underlayment as I feel it's unnecessary. But directly over a basement slab I'd do whatever the manufacturer recommends.

Door is not hollow, the stiles and rails will be mid, just use 1” drywall screws….what is going on with the door latch?

The whole edges are probably solid.

Hollow-core doors have solid edges that are about the same size.

Drill a hole from the top edge down -- no one will ever see it. Drill down the same distance the screws will be from the edge, since they likely used the same dimensions all around. And if it's solid wood, don't bother with the anchors... they won't work.

I mean…knock on it. Does it feel and sound like a solid piece of wood? Or does it feel like a veneer over foam?

I can almost guarantee it’s solid wood. Even hollow core doors have a solid frame. It’s need to have structural integrity. And glass is heavy.

The exception would be if your door is hollow/foam core and METAL. Again, that will be obvious from sound and feel.

Especially here in New York. I can’t say how many times I’ve heard a friend say that they tried to get a contractor or handy-person to even show up for a quote on a job and got stood up. Personally, I’m from Alaska and a contractor that flakes doesn’t get business, because word of mouth travels quickly.

Is there some way I can test if the door is hollow without drilling a hole into it? We moved in recently so I don't have any context info about the door.

Is the door hollow? I would be surprised with a glass panel in the middle of the sides aren’t solid wood. That would be really shitty, tbh, haha.

Assuming they are hardwood, then yes you can hang it. There is more than enough strength in there with the proper screws to hold two towels.