I have a cabin where extreme cold makes the vinyl flooring very brittle to the extent I can feel it break a little more with each step. It’s on my list for replacement. Sound like you should be safe at those temperatures and even somewhat less.

No. But I know you have a Play Station 5.

Yeah well now at least I’ll be more comfortable with removing all the the tile and just redoing it with a proper barrier. I got my phone behind the tub via the removed end, and can see there isn’t any water damage from the shit install at least. I was pretty sure it was wrong when I saw the bottom course was grouted all behind and down to the plastic tub and not siliconed at all. I won’t even tell you about the egregious use of sharkbites 🤬🤬🤬. In the event I need a pro, what trade do you recommend I search for? Coming from an electrical background and not knowing a single reputable plumber, are there any keywords I should be searching for? Questions to ask to check credibility for the job type?

So you know about my marriage too?!

Do you mean something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Blockage-Detector-Underground-Diagnostic-Tool-Instrument/dp/B0BFH7ZTW9/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=1BWCN8N3Z4AP9&keywords=pvc+pipe+locator+underground&qid=1679943889&sprefix=pvc+pipe+lovator%2Caps%2C328&sr=8-4

If it isn't too deep you could run a snake through it and use a metal detector.

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You could rent a pipe/drain camera that has a locator built into the head. Or pay a plumping company to do the same.

Yea, unfortunately the home improvement subs see this kind of BS all the damn time. It totally sucks, and you'd like to beat the installer into a coma.

Don't know what to tell you. Wish I had a quick and cheap way to deal with this, but that's not possible.

It depends on what it is on. Load, speed, etc matter. Cotter pins and washers are common for low speed applications. Threading becomes necessary where side play is unacceptable.

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I would user cotter pins but I’m worried about the axle integrity at that diameter? Should I be worried?

My soul left my body at the price

Is there anything particularly special about the threads, or just that you want a shaft with threaded ends? McMaster-Carr has those made to order in several materials:

https://www.mcmaster.com/threaded-shafts/threaded-rotary-shafts/diameter~12mm/

Contact a local machine shop. Any competent machinist with a lathe can make it. You could also buy a rod and thread it yourself with a die. Or use cotter pins instead of lock nuts.

although everyone is (rightfully so) complaining about the location ,this thing is doomed to fail because you used pavers pavers inherinetly store moisture, which when you apply heat makes steam and will crack apart the pavers. this can sometimes happen with somewhat explosive effects

My office wall is not structural, and I am fully sure without the aid of an engineer. The rafters run parallel to the wall. From the attic I can see the whole top of the plate, the drywall of the ceilings on each side, and the short boards (can’t think of the name) tying the header to the rafters.

There are times where one can absolutely tell without a structural engineer.

The easiest way to think about it is this:

Imagine standing with the door open and leaning with your back against the hinge-side jamb facing the latch strike plate. If the door knob of the open door is towards your LEFT hand, it's a left-handed door. If the door knob of the open door is towards your RIGHT hand, it's a right-handed door.

​

See the diagram here:

https://info.betterdoor.com/blog/door-repair-center/swing-of-a-door

Needs to be re-glazed. The finish has reached the end of it's useful lifespan

Nothing lasts forever, you know.

Re-post to the pros over at /r/carpentry.

Hope you don't get your feelings hurt easily.

Thanks for the heads-up! I don't think it's ever dropped below 65, but I'll have to check our temperature sensor history to make sure. It's an old enclosed brick porch under the roof of the house and has AC/Heat, so it's pretty well insulated.

I've personally always hated these linkages in blenders. I would attempt to see if any 3d printer file sites have a similar enough design for drop-in use and print with a high wall count or full infill. Even if it breaks again, it would be less than a buck of material to go again. If I couldn't find a good enough start, I would grab my calipers and mockup a design.

If I didnt have a printer, then I would think about getting another of the same or similar model for parts use when the drive motor eventually burns out. This type of blender is what I consider a "blender-like-device". Something that is designed to look and act like a blender, but ultimately fails at being one after actually using it.

Ahh, missed that detail. Nice

I think we bought the same kit! My wife and i put it together and i built diferent sides.... small sliding barn doors and stain instead of paint.

I think your best bet might be to keep looking for a second one that you can cannibalize for parts.