Thanks

Well crap, I'm glad I mentioned that because what I thought I knew was flat wrong, wonder where I got the idea from .. that definitely makes a huge difference in complexity, now all I need to do is figure out a charger and I'm good

Wear eye glasses and face shield! All it takes is one piece to change your life

That was the eventual solution I had in my mind, but it would take me a while to learn and get it working (I’m completely new to this), and I needed a more immediate solution 🙈.

I need advice on how to finish this wall after I pulled off wood paneling. This is in my bike room, and the whole room is covered in this paneling. I will be taking it all off at some point, but I need a little advice on how to start. I was thinking of taking a rotary sander and sanding down the wall where there are rips in the wall and glue on it to smooth those down. Then to take some kind of putty and fill in the holes and gaps. Below is a link to a few of the photos of the wall. Thank you!

https://imgur.com/a/SnvKtyj

What I'm saying is 99% of the people who parrot "call a structural engineer" have no idea what they're talking about and are saying it because that's what people say on reddit.

Easydiymurphybed.com comes with plans for the basic bed, and then I obviously designed well beyond from there. I do not have well documented plans

That helps a lot thank you!!

And I said that on the Imgur album too :(

Canned? Like you think I have a bot that posts reasonable advice to people?

Where I live this would be very illegal without getting it signed off.

You have to use something else. Maybe something like this https://www.amazon.com/Picture-Hangers-Shelves-Planters-Decorations/dp/B07XD8CQBN/ (example, not endorsement, do your research)

Caulk is not glue. Do not use glue, especially in a rental. Any glue that's strong enough to hold a nail in drywall will cause more damage when it comes time to remove the nail than if you had used a proper anchor in the first place.

Do you have plans for this?

[removed]

If you really want to properly remove the old cemented in posts, rent a jackhammer for an afternoon from your local tool rental business and break up the concrete around the post, it will all come out relatively easily once broken up and there won't be any place for kids, dogs or wildlife to hurt themselves on a cut off pipe mounted into cement.

Finish carpenter here. 80% of the result is in the prep and unlike walls getting a dead flat finish on mill work and cabinetry is largely about the primer.

1. Any bare wood should be water popped before priming. Ply wood should be fine to do this to whatever the off the shelf sanding level is assuming you used decent stuff. Face frames should be sanded to 150. Wipe its all down with a wet rag which will cause the grain to raise then sand with 180 and clean thoroughly with the last step being a wipe down with mineral spirits or naptha.

2.). If you’re looking for off the shelf solutions then use BIN shellac primer. It dries in 15-20 minutes and sands very smooth. The fumes suck but dissipate somewhat quickly. Don’t use the sprayer for it as those Mandela can’t be used with flammable products. Get corners and edges with rattle cans and the flat surfaces with 1/4 nap roller (no foam). After the first coat fill any imperfections with joint compound and sand thoroughly. It’s ok to sand through it because the first coat is about creating a uniform surface. I do 3 coats until it looks like it’s actually painted. That’s the heft you need. Sand to 220, vacuum and then wipe with wet rag. It should be very smooth.

3.). For paint BM Advance is the best out there and I’ll take anyone to the mat who thinks SW competes. You’ll want to dilute with distilled water by 5% or so to aid in atomization (can’t use floetrol with it). Spray the door backs first and let dry for a 3-4 hours then to the front and edges. They need dry for 16 hours before the 2nd coat (no compromise here). In between coats wet sand with a fine grit sponge - just use a container of clean water and keep dipping a wringing out. It should leave a cloudy surface then wipe clean with a wet rag. Let it dry for 15 minutes then spray the 2nd coat. Be careful with controlling the material and practice/sample to get your flow perfected. Advance is a little on the loose side and can drop if you’re not careful (constantly check for drips and smooth them out with a roller if you find one still wet.

Let it cure for $ days before use and it should be very durable.

It’s in our pool house so the extra space is nice for getting young kids into swim clothes and also is used as a workout area

Lol at these canned reddit answers. People on this site would tell people to call a structural engineer if their toilet was running stg

Very nice work! I'm curious as to what you use the room/space for when the bed is folded up and hidden? I've got a space that seems to scream for a Murphy bed but I'm not sure if it's worth it just to have a big empty spot in the middle of the room 80% of the time.

I sent a link to a random pintrest that has the brackets.

Its important that your existing posts are stable and free of rust ( as the OP's posts are) and a relatively heavy wall pipe. Sometimes you can add an interior sleeve to add rigidity if it's light wall. Typically you'd have 2 horizontal stringers for 3/4/5' tall fence meaning you'd need two of these brackets per post. 6/7' need 3 horizontals, thus 3 brackets per post.

If your posts aren't tall enough sometimes you can add an exterior sleeve to extend them. Chainlink pipe comes in funky sizes, to measure take a tape across the top of the post and go to the 1/8"

1 3/8 is common for dog kennels and residential toprail. 1 5/8 is a common line post size for residential line posts and commercial toprail. 1 7/8 is a common size for residential terminal (corners and ends) posts or light commercial line posts

2 3/8 and 2 7/8 are typically commercial applications.

Typically the smaller pipe sizes nest well, depending on wall thickness so you can figure out what length and diameter sleeve you need based on what you currently have.

It was also mentioned above to watch post spacing, I would agree that's its not ideal to go over 8' centers, you can get a post on a base plate to set as an intermediate if you are going on concrete / on a wall as the OP is. For a standard DIY project install I'd just dig and set a post in between the existing. Granted this is not how I would do it in my business but it works for a homeowner project to cut the labor.

I hope that helps, hit me with any other questions.

Voltage can't drop faster on the 7 because you can't have (much of) a potential difference across a conductor. The 7 Ah battery would need to be at a lower voltage than the 14 Ah battery and... well, how would that happen? In practice, the batteries are discharged in a rate proportional to their capacity, so the 14 Ah battery would provide 2/3rds of all current, and the 7 Ah would give 1/3rd.

If they're in parallel, the capacities will add and they'll always be at the same state of charge.

There are exceptions to this in extreme cases (where internal resistance becomes an issue) but I can't see you hauling over a hundred amps out of these things if all they are is a UPS.

For the best finish I would recommend spraying the pieces disassembled. You can rent a sprayer from most sherwin Williams stores for ~$50/day.

I’d recommend starting with a primer made for wood and top coat using a trim/cabinet paint like sherwin Williams emerald urethane or proclassic. Normal wall paint will be susceptible to chipping and discoloration in areas you touch often.

If you don’t want to spray, I’d still recommend painting disassembled and use the smallest nap roller you can find.

>If you're not sure whether a wall is load-bearing or not, it's essential to consult with a structural engineer or a licensed contractor before you start any demolition or construction work.

If you're not a structural engineer or similarly qualified person, you aren't sure. You just think you're sure. You need to consult a licensed engineer.

If you want a new hobby instead of a simple solution. My automation is run using domoticz home automation on a raspberry pi, controlling basic sonoff switches. A little work to flash the switches, but it's cheap and you can run many using any logic you can think of.

What exactly are you trying to fix?

Thanks. Yeah I’ve already done this. The plastic bracket in the image is likely just cheaply made as it’s supposed to hold the rail in the correct position via pressure fit.