New problem after 5 years, start by checking all the fasteners.

That's not how it works. You can parallel 12V lead acid batteries of the same state of charge. The main concern is not overcharging the batteries. After the bulk charge (around 14.5V), the voltage should be reduced to a float charge level (around 13.7V). Many battery chargers can do one or the other but don't switch to float when the battery is charged. Look for smart chargers which give their voltage specification for each mode.

edit: AGM gel and flooded batteries may have slightly different voltages. It is best to use a charger designed for the chemistry of the battery.

Probably better off finding an actual UPS for cheap. I got an old Tripp Lite rack mount (with expansion) for $100 with no batteries. Paid about $300 for new batteries and now my 300W rack can go over 10 hours without power.

Your DIY method seems needlessly complicated, but I do have something similar for my sump pump backup. 12V AGM battery hooked up to a transfer switch with an inverter. I just use a noco battery charger, but really any trickle charger will work.

Plenty of manufacturers mix capacity in different strings.

The higher capacity batteries have a lower internal resistance (due to more plate surface area) and thus will discharge roughly their % of the load in relation to their % of capacity.

As hattix said above, so long as theyre not in series, its fine.

Another recommendation for a mechanical timer.

Gardeners use them all the time for this exact purpose (lights on, lights off, water on, water off)

Man, you're giving me flashbacks.

My method for removal was to cut them off about 2' from the ground, then use a BAH to loosen them up a bit, then use a floor jack and chains as some have mentioned to pull them up. Of course that only worked for about 2/3 of them. For the rest I ended up having to rent a jackhammer from Home Depot to break up the concrete poured around the posts along with a pick and shovel to dig down until I got far enough to remove them. In my case, I was adamant that I wasn't just going to cut them off flush with the ground and call it good enough.

But it looks like you have a bit of a wall there that you probably don't want to destroy, and from the sounds of it, there's good advice to simply reuse the posts for your wood fence. That's exactly how the fence was in my yard; I only removed it because I wanted to open up more area. But the metal posts were extremely solid, and it doesn't look bad at all as a finished product.

So that’s actually why I put the drawer pullouts in, I extended the surface with the aim of giving a spot for your phone but “buried” in the cubby

Thank you!

Nice work, looks great!

This looks really great. The only thing I think would bug me, is if I were lying in that bed, tried to check my phone in the end-nook, and bam sheet of plywood in my way.

Not that I have an idea of how to correct for that issue, but I feel like it'd drive me nuts.

Glad to help. I have some I play with for feed spray cycles growing lettuce and peppers, they are a common thing in the greenhouse world. Good luck with your project!

Nice! I want to take the regular bed out of my spare bedroom and put a Murphy bed up. I've been wanting to do this for quite some time now but just haven't done it.

I’m planning on doing something extremely similar in my master. Already have the plans and 3D model. Biggest difference is it won’t be a Murphy.

I was wonder the best way to paint. Was considering taking it apart once assembled but that sounds like a massive pain. I think prepping the room is the way to go.

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Whatever you do, test it in the most hidden stone first.

These pics are just allowing people to make a guess on this matter. Pictures of the actual house from outside inside, what is above this door second floor or roof structure. Even with this said no the drawing is NO GOOD. Pictures of the ACTUAL construction of the house are needed

I have the same situation. Open a cupboard door, some small white plastic shards fall, now the door will not stay closed. Great design.

You sure? I've always heard different and logically it makes sense...

Say a 7 and 14 AH both starting at full, the voltage would drop faster in the 7 thus drawing power from the 14, maybe all you'd lose is charging inefficiencies...

Guess it's something I could test to see how it responds

Fabulous job. I would love to do this in our half-finished basement. We moved and have a spare mattress but it'd be odd to have a random bed next to the pool table. Not so odd if it's for a guest.

Take lots of pictures, you'll (hopefully) never see that again!

Your plan seems solid to me, except you'd get better insulation value out of your eps by putting it on the wall first then adding your 2x4 furring over top. The new studs would be anchored to the old ones with long screws through the insulation.

Oh now I get it! The choke plate was stuck closed.

Does this work if the pipes are short? I have a ~3ft chain link, but would like a taller wooden one someday.

I too would love this information, happy if you just copy/paste what you've already sent!

That is exactly what I need; thank you very much.

Oh thanks!