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Either move the nail so it's in a stud, or use something else for a hook. There are lots of options.

Use a chain and a high lift jack

Suggest you also ask in civil engineering subreddits. Some drainage experts might have some good solutions

Uhm... Mazdas go o zoom zoom not Vroom Vroom

The distinction for in swing vs out swing is usually only made for exterior doors. Interior doors are usually left or right hand swing. With your back against the hinges do you need the door to swing to your left or to your right. In your case you need a right hand swing door. This will have the hinges on the left and swinging to you, or flipped around the hinges on the right and swinging away from you.

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Really cool.

That car goes zoom zoom thank you very much

Yeah

Crippler carries the top plate, jack carries the header, king locks them in

You could be under there for hours. Don’t bother IMO, just take a sharp drill bit and break off the plastic wing nuts + epoxy with a drill. Break it in 2 sections then just take the whole sink out.

It’s not worth the time and hassle going under a sink with limited room to move tools around.

This is clearly not a job you should be attempting. Hire a contractor and get a permit.

You could tape a string to the light switch and using a couple eyehooks run the string up to the top of the stairs. I did this as a child in my bedroom, so that I could get into bed with the light on and then turn it off from in bed. I even set up two strings - on and off :)

And so you do this without stand-offs?

I've been doing something similar for years.

I used 1/2" Plywood, and then used 1/4-20 T-Nuts on the back side of the plywood, matching with the holes for the mounting plate, then used 1/4-20 x 1/2" Truss Head Machine Screws (truss head screws have a larger head than regular, so don't need a washer) to go into the T-Nuts.

Then I used the 2-1/2" (I think) lag bolts that came with the bracket to go into the Plywood and studs where they cleared the bracket on the outside, and/or 2-1/2" drywall screws in places that the lag bolts would get in the way of the mount.

This is a heavier articulating mount that pulls out, so perhaps I went a bit overkill, but I have used this same pieces in now 3 apartments, and just have to adjust where the screws go to match the studs and center the display accordingly.

​

I have two boards like this, this picture is of a wider board I have that also has another mount to the right of my 49" display that is for a 27" display that is portrait for my desk setup, but the principles the same. You can see the countersunk holes from the drywall screws from a previous apartment.

Image:

https://app.box.com/s/i7zbb9adb5gsvbz93rk790g2xk5tjz6a

You could dig a "dry well" at the low spot as a simple fix- it would require digging a large hole, lining it with water pregnant fabric, and filling with river rock. This will eliminate pooling as it gives water time to permeate into the soil. I did this and it completely stopped my pooling. The size of your hole should be enough to collect any excess water for reference mine was about 10 wheelchair full. As for your trench, others have good suggestions

If at all possible, I would recommend disconnecting your downspout from this and running it to somewhere far enough from your house that it doesn’t cause you problems.

This could be to ground, or to a soak-away, but ideally somewhere at least several meters from your house and where the natural grading conveys storm flows away, and not toward your house.

I never recommend roof leaders connected directly to a drain (and this drain seems terrible in its own right). This is because sediments and organics and roofing materials among other stuff inevitably end up going down the spout and prematurely clogging the drain.

If you have to have this downspout connect to a drain, I would recommend that you have an intermediate catch basin before flows go into a drain or further underground conveyance. This way with annual maintenance you can clean out all the crap before it gets out of reach.

The clean out suggestion I saw from another is not a bad idea, but may just push the problem further down the line (unless close enough to that grated basin I see in one of the pictures that it can push all the crap there).

As for the existing drain area itself. If the general area around there has flooding issues, I would recommend a perforated PVC pipe (holes pointing down), graded towards that grate at 2%, encapsulated in clear drain rock and wrapped all around with non woven geotextile.

If the only reason the area has water issues is because of the roof leader, then I would just run a non perforated run of PVC pipe to the grated area (but again, only if you can’t discharge it to ground somewhere better as mentioned above).

That could be a lot of things. With a laundry room over top you can have a drain line as well as water lines lined up going down through a plumbing wall, as well as electrical. Honestly I hate stud finders personally. You can always take a drill bit or screw and run it in slowly and see if it hits something, if not use the anchors. Or just try to mount where there's nothing in that area. The other option is cut it open and see what's actually there. If you use anchors you can get ones with screws that are short enough to not hit anything after testing the depth with something like a drywall screw or just a small drill bit. Make a mark on the bit or screw so you know the depth that it's going to run in when utilizing the mount and if you don't hit anything in that depth you're good to use it in that location. If you can't find a spot that satisfactory just mounted on a piece of board and move on

The drywall anchor idea is interesting. We are also dodging a mysterious and solid 6" wide something in the wall. There is a laundry room above this wall but nothing lines up in an obvious manner so say it's pipe or just air vent or what. My stud finder reports solid for 6 inches left/right between 2 studs gapped at 24" inches

I can tell you right now that is there for a reason.

My buddies basement had some massive water leak issues and he could either install weeping tiles which he didn't have the money for, redo the window wells (didn't have the money for but he did manually next year and I helped) or create a rock channel drain to divert any rsiny water from the house to the street. The rocks are there to slow the seepage into the soil and allow the water to flow.

I would think twice about removing that channel or at least ask the last homeowner why they did that

Most locations in the US have more trouble cooling a house than heating it. But for those living in the frozen north, the European style of dryer would be worth looking into.

Leave out the stand-offs, if your TV is less than 50#'s I wouldn't even bother with the plywood. Mount the bracket with 2 lags into a stud then use heavy drywall anchors rated for 50-100# each into your drywall. The single stud will support the weight while the anchors will help they will serve to prevent sagging downwards. If it's more than 50#, 1/2" plywood is More than enough as a backer, or just grab a 1*6 and cut to needed length. Whatever is cheaper or on hand will suffice. Mount that to studs with some construction screws then use included hardware from TV mount to install centered on the board/plywood. Make sure that the screws going onto your board (if used) have threads in the wood and not smooth shafted when fully installed. If they threads are not towards the head of the screw you won't have any holding strength so in this case just go to the hardware store and get some that will work properly, going into the drywall isn't necessary but won't hurt overall, don't assume it to be structural though (this is why you need threads of screws into the board, not smooth shaft)