Wondering if you actually use the electric fp to heat the room?

Would the owners be okay with your buying a larger one? It seems that replacing it is only worthwhile if you plan to live there long enough to get a lot of use from it.

What is the material behind the heater (it kind of looks like marble)?

The whole thing looks kind of drab. I would put focus on bringing a lot of color and interest to the area.

• I suggest moving the speakers away from the front because the white does not add any color or interest.

• Start by putting an area rug in front, preferably something that has rich colors. I would recommend something rustic-looking, in keeping with the look of the stone fireplace.

The type of rug depends on your budget, but if money is tight, look for pre-owned online or at a thrift store. Lowe’s and Home Depot also sell rugs (don’t forget to look in the garden section).

• In the shelf/cubbies, find some tinted mirror or glass to cover the back (something reflective) and in front of it place some handmade or rustic candle holders. They can be dark bronze, “rusted” red, or a copper (maybe with a green/blue patina). The holders do not have to match; in fact, it would be better if they didn’t. You can go to a thrift store, craft faire or . Even World Market. When the candles are lit, the whole thing should shimmer.

• As for the larger space behind the heater, it depends on whether or not it gets hot back there.

If it stays cool, you could insert interesting looking abstract painting(s) from a thrift store. Or maybe paint some thing yourself if you are artistic.

If the area gets hot, then I would suggest going to a tile store and buying a couple of sheets of the very small glass tiles in very shimmery, deep, reflective colors. It can be mounted on backer board and put it behind the heater. It will be easy to take when you move.

In the warmer season, when not using the fireplace, you could put some potted plants and succulents next to it.

Find some ceramic pots as well. Succulents can handle the warmth and there are amazing varieties out there that grow very fast from tiny plants.

Put a few candleholde If it gets too warm for real plants, get realistic silk ones. rs and photos on the mantle piece as well.

Have fun.

Looks like shit. It will fail.

I’ve done this several times with a machine bolt having the rounded end facing the wall and the nut end securing the mount. Works very well.

Quick question about trying to get some nails in my wall to stick:

I'm a broke college student in a cheap rental house, and I just hammered a few nails into the wall, pointing up at about a 45 degree angle, basically as hooks, so I can hang something on them.

Thing is, they're just nails in dry-wall, so the moment I tapped one of them, it fell all the way into the wall. I pulled it out and put a little bit of glue against the hole, but I'm wondering if anyone could suggest any good ways to keep the nails firm where they are.

Would caulk work? I thought about that, but I'd rather get some more informed input. Any advice is appreciated!

Currently no because this one doesn't work which is why we're getting a new one. We would like to use it to heat the room though. The material seems to be marble and then in the middle it's an aluminium sheet I think.

I wouldn’t bother with standoffs unless you want the tv farther from the wall. The bolts for the TV mount to the plywood are fine going into the drywall. I’d personally just get some shorter lag bolts though if you can. It’s really no big deal, but the bolt really only has to be long enough to reach through the mount and the plywood.

I thought about that too, I have an other outlet that is like that too. No unusual or non-functioning switches that I could find.

Holy shit that's crazy bro.

Foil-faced insulation, I think, is completely vapor impermeable. If so, then you have to be ultra careful where you use it. Last thing you want to do is trap moisture inside your walls and end up with 50 tons of moldy stinky concrete wall filler.

In my climate zone vapor barriers are not really needed, so I avoid using them.

In cold zones you want the vapor barrier towards the warm in winter side of the wall, so that the steam from your hot cocoa does not condense into water droplets inside your wall.

If condesation is a concern then use the Rockwool product -- I forget the name.

Gosh, fucking concrete in the walls. Unbelievable.

Man, if you're brave enough to get rid of that shit... I wonder if closed-cell spray foam would replace some of that stiffness you are afraid of losing. (That would also be a vapor barrier, though).

If the studs are in good shape then I think the concrete isn't really doing much. There's that gap at the top of the walls. There's nothing sitting on top of the concrete, so I don't think it's really holding up anything.

I guess I'm just getting stuck on the idea of having such terrible wall insulation for the sake of keeping such a bunch of garbage inside the walls where the insulation should be.

similar thing happened to me turned their was a separate switch to the outside plugs for decorations or whatever. I would check for a light switch that looks like it doesnt turn on any lights.

They need a right in-swing, then turn it around.

Somehow I failed to upload the picture. Here it is: https://imgur.com/a/Fb9uv2r

A left inswing is a RIGHT in outswing.

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Must likely has a blocked vent. That could be inside dryer, or the actual vent pipe.

If not in the US and you have a condensation dryer, remove all and any dust from both the condensator (inside dryer loop) as well as the evaporator (outside dryer loop). Both need to have free airflow.

eventually. you'll end up removing and redoing it eventually.

to prolong this, you can make a wrap to give more filter surface, and use a proper landscape fabric. a double punched non woven fabric is what you want. 4oz is a happy medium, less will allow more flow but isn't as heavy, 6/8, and higher oz will be less permeable and won't pass water as quickly.

to be fair, you don't use a French drain to take care of surface water. op should just run a trench that can be easily cleaned if maintenance is priority and ground water isn't a concern. can run a French drain underneath if needed.

in a French drain you ALWAYS want to use a fabric. even in heavy clay. again, many people are better served by proper slope and surface drains for the bulk of their water, which prolongs fabric health.

Lego rainbow waterfall

Thank you!! I just ended up cutting them off and am going to install the new sink in tomorrow. Here’s the photos in case you can identify the mystery substance

Uhh, no.

No, that's not how this is done at all.

You absolutely, positively, can NOT just cut into the beam/rim joist/header, or whatever it is you've drawn in blue on top of the studs.

If you remove studs, you need to replace them with a header that redirects the load they were once carrying to the new jack studs that are farther away. Those jack studs are then stabilized by King studs right beside them.

The size of the header required is, as u/rpapafox points out, something a structural engineer would determine.

What type of fabric? Sometimes my dryer sensor will turn off when it thinks the items are dry. Most often happens with polyester blend sheets.

Haha!

Copy that. Yea I've had a Maytag centennial in the past and they're notorious POS's. We had nothing but problem codes. Thanks for the tip!

I'm also renting, so being that it's not mine per se, I didn't want to get overly involved in it. I'm hoping it's something stupid easy and hopefully cheap as well

I dont know why, a drywall saw is cheap and id just cut the whole thing off. Lay a similar chunk, tale and patch, sand and paint.

Longer than 30 min, but youre also not counting the hours you used to research.

Yea, in Europe the water will usually be in a tank. It’s hot, and as such will warm your house.

I had a dryer once that would stop at uneven intervals during its cycle. I eventually found the culprit to be the door switch. The machine thought the door had opened, no indications or door warnings. Machine just stopped.

Well anyways, google/openAI is your friend good luck

To me it looks like plumbers putty under the nuts. If so, it might make the nuts a little tougher to move than normal, but not like epoxy would.

Stupid as it sounds, I think you need to just keep working on the nuts. If you can get a screwdriver/chisel and a hammer up there and just tap on the nuts to spin them off, that might work. The nuts are plastic, at the very least you can break them off. Also, (and I only say this because I've done it) make sure you are turning the right way. I've been known to get confused when laying on my back looking up!

Upvoted cuz this is entirely new knowledge to me lol. But yea like the other reply, in the US most dryers vent the air outside, along with the condensation, in a singular process.