Could be a defective thermostat, or a defective timer.

Google the specific problem for your specific dryer model. It may be something very common. If nothing turns up, call a repair person.

Not in the US. Most dryers are vented to the outdoors and that's where the moisture goes.

100% this. I replaced all my old blum kitchen cabinet door hinges with new blum hinges when I painted them and all of the doors suddenly 'snapped' closed and stayed in that position. Replace all the hinges, you'll be happy that you did.

Well.. the point of a dryer, is to remove water from your clothes.. said water need to go somewhere.. usually there is a big pull-out tank that you must empty after every job. If this is full, the machine will usually stop, and if it overflows you should have moisture sensors that stops the machine.

I have no idea what type of dryer you have. But the usual ones have a condensation tray.

I would attack this with an oscillating multi tool. Metal cutting blade flush against the sink base and go at 'er. Like like you have room under there.

i agree with u/sarxsvt. it may be some non-silicone caulk or the wrong product entirely. the khaki colored stuff looks familiar to me but the product i'm thinking of has no flex to it at all. dries rock hard but i can't remember where i've seen it. just dremel the plastic nuts off and clean the area of any residue as it may cause issues for the new install.

Condensation tray? Lol sorry if that's another name for the lint trap/filter, I've just never heard it before

And yes I've cleaned the filter.

A left in swing and a left out swing are the same thing when it comes to interior doors. You just turn it around.

Yes, it looks like it might be epoxy. You may have to cut the old faucet out. Start by taking it apart from the top and see what you expose to see how you can get it out.

Can you break the threaded tubes off under the faucet?

With enough torque can you turn the grey plastic nuts?

If it's an attached garage too, another thing that can add to the glowing spacecraft docking port look is foil insulation on the garage door.

Needs a screw somewhere to stop it from coming out of the plastic piece or to keep the plastic part from moving.

Oh, all my excavated soil goes into filling out my yard!

It was stuck in the closed position. I have never completely rebuilt a carb but knew it needed air and that was the first thing I found in my purse.

Since you're replacing it and those are plastic nuts you could just cut them off and remove the faucet. I've seen people use silicon that way but even after it hardens years later it's not that hard to remove. If that is some sort of epoxy you may have to Dremel or grind it off to get a good seal on the new faucet if it spilled over to the bottom of the sink. I'm guessing it shouldn't be that much trouble though.

Lint? Have you cleaned the filter/removed it?

Edit: I expect you have emptied the condensation tray..?

Can you send me a message too? I have a chain link surrounding and would love for it to be a privacy fence.

https://imgur.com/a/6crwKya here are some photos for reference!!

The 'All About French Drains' video specifically recommended in another comment is a good starting point. Hopefully some other commenters will watch it as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bEVBOEIktr4

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That's not OP

Socked pipe and gravel is better.

And EZ pipe doesn’t install itself. You still have to “Do it yourself.”

But isn’t the sock around the pipe just something that has small enough spaces to let water through but not sediment? Won’t the sock clog up with sediment the way an air filter clogs with dust?

I kept having the same kind of problem in my old location. There was a lot of sand around I kept getting sand in all my drains. Anywhere I put corrigated or french drain, the bottom third of the pipe would fill up with sand and flow rates would just plummet. My situation was different though. I replaced most of my corrugated with straight clean PVC and give it enough drop the the sediment went with the water. Of course I was going to an NDS drywell so the angles will whatever I wanted them to be.

If you can figure out a way to stop the erosion, digging it out thoroughly , gravel, sock pipe, gravel would be great. In the same vein if you could get erosion under control dig it out gravel French drain gravel would be quite reasonable.

But if you can't get the sediment under control any type of underground conveyance is just going to eventually get plugged.

I would suspect the proper solution would be to regrade what's there with a retaining wall, but that's edging more out of DIY and into getting a proper professional to tell you what angles to actually use.

For a quicker cheaper fix, You might want to just construct something that's easier maintenance. Do a concrete gutter then you could just blow it out with a pressure washer.

Not to be used on human horn, got it

just attach your wood fence to the steel poles. otherwise you gotta rip out all that concrete