Carry the jack studs all the way up to the header.

Anywhere water flows across the ground it’s going to pick up sediment along the way.

I think the brickwork looks fine. Why not start with a lighting upgrade instead?

I changed out the 2 standard LED bulbs in my garage for some fancy but cheap multi angled adjustable and very bright LED units. My garage went from a dingy hole to a glowing spacecraft docking port.

OP has no idea he's about to watch HOURS of drainage installation videos. Poor guy.

I would not notch that. Get a smaller door or whatever that's going in the middle

For softer adhesives, like silicone (frequently used for installing mirrors) or two sided tape, a fishing line will work.
For automotive glass adhesive (like when you're salvaging a windshield at the junkyard) you can use a thin cable (like a hood release one) and wrap it around a screwdriver or block of wood at each end as handles.

The false wall is also what I'm going to use to hang drywall, shelving and cabinets.

It's corrugated sock-pipe. The are holes in the pipe allows water to flow properly. The "sock" keeps the sediment out.

Since you're in SK and I'm in MB, I'll stand on my roof this summer and take a look at your gazebo.

Have a good one!

Pretty much. You want a 6"-8" excavation for a 4" sock pipe. Probably 1"-2" of small gravel underneath. Back-fill as best you can and throw the rest under the deck or the neighbors yard.

The trick is allow the materials to do the work, not necessarily a drain pipe. Although u could get 3” perforated drain pipe too.

I would dig it all out 4” below the drain pipe and gravel, perforate the side of the box drain, then lay the clean concrete sand for those 4” including and envelope around the drain box. Then top the area that had the drain pipe with whatever you want, that is permeable, ie the gravel cleaned out. The sand will carry the water. This is all assuming the drain box goes somewhere with positive drainage.it wouldn’t hit to put sand below the box too, and poke holes in the bottom so there is no standing water.

Thanks, I needed that. Top of concrete is above ground level, and I was careful to slope pavers so water runs away. You are probably right. I didn’t do enough planning/research and rushed it a bit given our season for outdoor projects is so short and had a few projects on the go. Then started second guessing when winter came and I got time to plan the roof and rest of finishing.

So I live in a rented house, it's old, like 1860s. It's been retrofit with central air so in the summer it mostly stays cool, but my bedroom on the second floor accumulates heat like crazy. It has 2 big, South facing casement windows, so a normal window AC unit doesn't work. Is there anything I could do to help keep it cool? Everything I've seen online basically says get a freestanding AC unit and an adapter for casement windows, but the AC units are insanely expensive. Is there a good way to rig a box fan or something to cool it off? I'm considering a plywood sheet the size of the window with a cutout for a fan, but not sure if that would really work. The room has cold air output, it no return vents to pull the hot air

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That could be a possibility. Every other outlet in the house works and has been tested and verified.

I could use some help with an idea I have.

I hate going to the basement at night because the light switch is at the bottom of the stairs.

I had an idea to swap the light switch for a smart switch and figured there'd be smart switch kits that offer a remote buttons you can stick on the wall so you don't have to have an electrician come wire three-way switchs.

I did find something like that, but they only come with 1 remote and they're surprisingly expensive. I'd like to have two remotes but can't even figure out if you can buy additional remotes.

Alternatively I've heard of Zigbee "scene" buttons that maybe I could use as a remote to toggle a regular smart switch, but I've never used Zigbee so I'm not entirely sure if that's something a scene button can do.

If you want to know why I don't just hire an electrician - I rent this house so while my landlord lets me modify things I don't want to make any changes I can't reverse if he asks me to.

This is the way. Those are obviously really good posts so I'd just use them for the new fence. Plus cutting them off and leaving the stump with that concrete pad is going to look way worse than mixing the metal post and wood fence...

I'm not an expert. Perhaps they developed a drainage problem and this is how the fixed it.

A drain following the contour of the drainage line in the grass would be a larger project. Makes sense, though.

Put another layer of drywall on each wall to take up the gap

It’s fine, I’d just recommend to use a light weight material like balsa wood so it’s easier for the crew that fixes it to do the demo.

So, that U shaped pipe is supposed to be installed like an n instead of a u

That way; it has a big gap underneath that cannot fill with rocks (and sediment).

You put rocks underneath and rocks above and it becomes the french drain it was always meant to be!

As the water level rises above the bottom of the n shaped pipe, it flows into the pipe and hopefully down the hill toward the box drain.

Appreciate the comments and well wishes. Will report back if I give it a go!

The grinder doesn't care what it cuts and the wheel doesn't get dull. Buy a couple packs of discs and wear a mask for concrete dust. If you really want to go fast, you probably only need to cut the pipes a little over half way then bend back and forth to break them. You can clean up with a grinding wheel. Don't use a demo saw unless you're used to it... It's a lot of power to handle.