Hmm, if that is the case, that corner with the driveway needs a catch basin and the drain should follow that natural drainage line in the grass.

It is clearly a bad french drain. (or an attempt at a DIY french drain).

An attempt where they forgot you are supposed to install the pipe upside down.

Seriously, if they just flipped the pipe it would probably work well enough.

The idea of the underside is to remain clear, so as water rises it can easily drain away down the kept-clear section of path.

In this instance, they put the pipe right-side up, and filled it with rocks (???)

Yes, most french drains use a full pipe with holes in the bottom - but the half-pipe should theoretically work well enough if installed correctly and in a manner that it doesn't flip upside down like this.

This is accurate. Metal fume fever will make you feel like you have the worst flu and make you feel like you're going to die. Some guys say drinking a lot of milk helps but there's really no studies that back that up. The Doc is going to do nothing but tell you to avoid breathing zinc and you'll recover on your own, usually within 24 hours.

Lung damage could occur, but most guys build up a resistance throughout the week, then show sensitivity on Mondays after being a few days away. That's why it's also known as "Monday Fever". It goes away again with most guys within a day or two.

When it all shakes out, the zinc doesn't remain in your body and you'll be up and feeling better in 24 hours. It also hasn't shown to be cumulative or any worse with future incidents. You should definitely avoid it, but it's not on the same level as breathing other metal particulates or bad stuff like hexavalent chromium. I deal with this issue all the time and the guys down voting don't know what they're talking about.

It's not great and you should always wear a particulate filter like an N95 or better when removing the zinc before welding. Use a flap wheel, sander, or grinder. Keep the wind at your back or side where it can blow particulates away from you. Don't spray cold process zinc galvanizing spray on it either until the welds have fully cooled down.

I love the concept and the attempt. If you make a narrower adapter for a shop vac, you might be able to suck up some debris as you loosen it, if need be.

I would be thrilled to see this work for you. All the best!

No sealant. I did know what you meant. It’s more a temp fitting not for long term use really. I was thinking cut the pipe below the floor and install a screw terminal/clean out. These pipes shouldn’t really just be capped poking up through or even flush with the floor that’s not great if they are.

The "best" approach is only an opinion -- mine in this case -- and not-best doesn't mean disaster. Stop stressing.

If the top of the concrete is above ground level, you're already off to a great start. If you want, you can get those inverted cone things, or install flashing around the bottom of the pole, about an inch off the concrete, so water is directed away from where the wood goes into the concrete. The gap allows air to circulate in that area.

Fence posts can last a long time, buried, in direct contact with soil -- so chances are your gazebo posts will outlive you. If you live long enough for the posts to rot, take care of it then and rejoice in the long life you lived!

Seems simple enough to just lower the box drain then?

• Get a pipe that that isn't cut in half.
• Dig the rocks up, shake them off, and put them in buckets.
• Check the whole is deep enough, dig down if not. Probably want 6-8" at 15 degree slope to exit
• use water to wash your rocks, the dirt, dust, and fines can clog your cloth and youre in for real work ahead, so might as well do it the best you can.
• lay down the magical cloth, pack it a bit, and confirm the grade to the exit.
• put down an inch or two of rock and compact. Lay your pipe. He he... Check the grade, this is the last easy chance.
• pack in rock, firmly, around the pipe, don't crush the pipe.
• firmly add an inch over the pipe, add another layer of magical cloth.
• add the rest of your rock over the top cloth. Compact every inch. Be careful until the rock can protect the drain tile pipe.
• drink

What makes it not easy? The excavation?

I'm not a structural engineer, but I have some concerns about that header...

Honestly this would be my move too. As far as I can tell from OPs comments, it's not really working or solving any problems now (please let me know if I missed something though, it doesn't sound like OP has water management issues even with that yard slope aside from this drain pipe clogging). Why go through a ton of work and potentially multiple fixes and digging up the yard to get this set up to continue to not really do much of anything? I'd pull the whole thing out and just let the grass move up to the edge of the sidewalk.

Use a strip drain instead of the big EZ drains or perf pipe. They collect water better and have a smaller profile so they’re easier to install

Appreciate the help though texture isnt going to offset a 10mm gap. Will work for the mid bit tho.

Ah yep makes sense. Plasterboard is already installed at a tilt however so will need to measure, shim the far side then plaster until level.

This worked great! Home Depot had the extension piece and it’s nice and snug.

Don't those hinges adjust? Hard to tell but generally there is a screw on the middle inside to adjust them. Take a look here

https://youtu.be/nPoN9h10YDY

If not, just replace the hinges. They're cheap enough to rule them out. Ive seen them get bent out of whack. Adding a magnet as Ive seen suggested is a waste of time/money. It's trying to accommodate something that doesn't work correctly to begin with.

Just shim it

texture...

The one more central to the room (5mm offset in the diagram) isn't so bad however, the one at the edge of the room is and will mean the architrave will be off as well if not adjusted.

Joists should of been checked beforehand but time is tight so mistakes were made.

Let me run this by the misses first...

Nuke the entire site from orbit - it's the only way to be sure.

Theres something else in the middle that you are unaware of. Maybe a buried jbox in a wall?

The best way to do it is to screw strapping perpendicular to the joists and shim all the strapping to the lowest joist. You then screw the drywall (plasterboard) to the strapping.

That GFCI is obviously not powering those outlets. Either there is another outlet between the GFCI and the four you're trying to fix, or those four get power from somewhere else. My guess would be the former.

Nah it's fine. It looks worse than usual but I did confirm it works as it usually does which is meh