That did it! Thanks a bunch!

Landscape contractor here. They're super easy to remove with a farm jack. All you need is some transport chain and a farm jack (Harbor Freight). You can pop a post out that's been mounted in concrete in about 2 minutes.

Take the farm jack, put it on a smooth surface, then wrap the chain around the post a few times and around the jack. When you lift the jack up, the chain will tighten and bite into the post. It'll rip it out of the ground with the concrete.

I did this recently to about 20 posts with the links, and then replaced it with a new fence with aluminum 4x4s and wooden slants. Worked perfectly. Removing the old fence was actually the fastest part of the process.

Not really. If that was the case then everything would naturally flatten and level over time.

See the OPs comment. It is coming from other work performed.

EZ pipe is crap.

Yes, wire back to the panel, wire to the switch, wire to the smart switch and wire to the load. Put all 4 together twist them with together with a pair of pliers and stick a wire nut on them.

Damn! So 4 14ga wires all need to be twisted together!? Probably have to get a splicer.

I was done in about half an hour.

If I had to pull the board off by force, rip drywall from the wall, then patch the holes, then paint, would be working all day, or longer.

If that is the neutral floor the light it will need to be connected to the same neutral that is connected to N and the switch

Okay makes sense. What about the other wire that goes to the light? Just cap it?

Please excuse formatting; mobile sucks

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Here's what I would do

1.dig down 10 inches the whole length

2. Deal with excavated material

3. Install big o with sock ( make sure you have a gradual slope towards your outflow point)

4. Get some 3/4 clear gravel fill hole leaving 2 inches to grade.

5. Landscaper fabric on top of clear gravel

6. But some nice river rock or pea gravel for the last 2 inches.

And if you want some type of barrier the plastic edging is really good for containing whatever rock you throw in there. Hope this helps.

Chain or strap, choke loop, pull with vehicle.

With a toothing chisel, and hammer to get all the weakened stuff out. Make sure you check both sides of the wall.

Heh. Giggity

Silly goose, you’re thinking “pipe sock”

Nice. How do you handle the cracks? Did you open the chisel out the crack to make it wider to pack in the cement? I was just watching a YouTube video of a guy working in the basement of an old bank and he used what looked like a demo hammer and widened the crack and bored out some holes and then packed it with cement. My crack isn’t as bad as what he was dealing with.

Yes it will. Youvneed rocks around it. I'd dig it up, put landscaping fabric in bi of rock pvc more rock and the wrap it and dirt on top.

Disconnect the hot from your switch, connect it to the L portion of the smart switch. Put 2 pigtails on the neutral, connect one neutral to the N on the smart switch. Connect second neutral to your switch. Connect switch to S1 and then connect your load (lightbulb) to L1

This is probably gonna sound like you're making a bigger trench, but hear me out: shovel it.

I’ve never tinted it. It comes in gray, or white. I use hydraulic cement for cracks in my foundation, and recommend it. It’s drying time is excellent, it doesn’t have to be dry, and tinsel strength is higher than concrete.

I was just looking at that stuff and it looks like a pretty good paint for my scenario. I see Home Depot has it in stock. I assume you can get it tinted? Can you use the same stuff for the floors? The issue I have with moisture is I have a hairline crack in the foundation wall that I get moisture from a heavy rainfall comes seeping in. I was going to use some hydraulic cement to hopefully take care of that problem.

If it’s stopping the sediment from getting into the pipe, doesn’t the sock clog? The sediment has to be somewhere.