It's grass, not concrete.

French drain.

Appreciate this doesn't answer what you've asked, but I painted my block work with a really fluffy roller and watered down white paint. It's not amazing but it brightened it up (my main goal) and looked much better. A cheap stop gap solution if nothing else.

yeah the design of that house is awful tbh.

This looks like a "Blum 33.3600 Compact 33 Screw on 110 Degree Opening Face Frame Hinge". There are cheap to buy on Amazon (or other places) and easy to replace.

you have gotten some ok advice but look at a trench/channel drain. The previous owner installed one and it is kind of fun to watch the water flow.

I remodeled my basement 15 years ago and I didn’t want to put nails or screws into the concrete. I used a high strength polyurethane construction adhesive to attach all of the base plates (PT 2x4) and I have not had a single problem with them. During construction I had to move a couple of pieces and the wood separated before the glue broke free.

I recommend drylok paint for the walls. Anything moisture that comes through the wall will wick up, and either evaporate, or come down the wall. This will help with basement smell. A dehumidifier is always another solid idea.

Home depot has the brackets too. What will matter is the spacing of those existing posts. If you are buying premade sections the spacing will probably be too big. If too small you can of course cut the section down. If its longer you can build the sections custom sized with 2x4s and pickets. You could also rent a core drill and add extra metal posts in between. Good luck!

If you're not sure if it's wired right, here's a simple test: stick your finger in it. To ensure an accurate result, you'll need to compensate for geography. In the Americas: if your arm jerks around a bit and you feel funny, you did it wrong. In Europe, it's even easier. Just check if you're dead or just dead inside like usual. If you're dead, you need to swap the wires around. For India and Africa, don't bother with the test at all, there's no enforced electrical code anyways.

The good news is their drain pipe worked, the bad news is it got filled with very fine sediment that a proper filter would prevent from clogging.

When you are in clay soils, it is best to use astm c33 sand (concrete sand) instead of gravel. You would simply redig the trench and replace the pipe and gravel, no need for geotextile. The same system is used in dams. Their solution wasn’t too bad, you could probably fix it by digging a narrow trench between the gravel and grass and filling with the sand I just mentioned.

You pictures and description aren’t clear as to what the problem is. Does the pipe not drain anymore? Can you not clean the pipe out? Which way does this drain? It sounds like you have an issue with an outlet that freely drains. Make sure the land is clearly draining away from the outlet. The drainage sock thing others mentioned is for amateurs, not engineers. A graded filter around the perforated pipe is what you need.

It'll make you feel sick - but nothing long-term. Been there done that (someone next to me was welding on some zinc before I had a chance to notice.

Many multimeters have a setting where they'll beep if you touch the two probes together (or if there's nothing but wire between them, i.e. an electrical short). Use that setting. If yours doesn't have it, use the ohms setting (Ω) instead. Tap the probes together to see what a short looks like.

Make sure the power is disconnected first or you'll brick your multimeter (or best case blow a safety fuse inside it).

I’ve pulled a lot of posts of all sorts with a chain and jackall. (High lift jack, like what you see Jeep drivers strap to their vehicle). It will even pull a steel post out of concrete, unless there is something protruding from the pipe to hold it. Sometimes I cut the pipe at about 3 feet from the ground and hit it a couple times hard straight down with a sledge hammer to break it free. Then pull with jack.

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That pipe sock will not work with Georgia red clay.

There are 5 screws in the picture. Two in mounting the hinge it the cabinet and two mount the hinge to the door. The one in the middle is the one you need to adjust.

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if you are building wooden fence on the same line, why don't you incorporated the post into the wood fence, seems like it is sturdy enough

This is the answer, and a decent angle grinder is the best multi tool ever made!

That's normal. First couple of times I used mine I was freaked out about starting a fire... even when there wasn't anything flammable around! 😅

Btw, are you seeing any kind of dust material flying out of the sawzall cutting? If so, it's probably filled with concrete...

Spend $50 and buy yourself an oscillating tool. Those cuts look atrocious. You can do much better with the right tools

Yeah NDS ez pipe

Use a wire brush to scrape off any loose or flaking paint. Ask SW what product they recommend and use that. Any light color is fine, that's totally up to you.

As others point out, nothing is going to stick especially well. But if the old paint took many years to degrade, you may find it acceptable.